Question about Washing Machines
SOURCE: kenmore 70 series
Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.
Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.
Which one is it?
The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:
1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.
NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.
Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.
If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.
If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:
If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:
Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.
Posted on May 15, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore 70 series
First thing is to remove the 2 screws from the console, they may be hidden in the front or bacl of console. After removing screws, lightly push the base of the console towards the front of the washer and pick up. This will expose your lid switch connection. Using a jumper wire, jump out the black and white wires then try advancing your washer into spin/drain. The culprit will usually be the lid switch assy.
Posted on Apr 04, 2008
It cant drain if you oulet hose is higher than the water level. Raise your drain hose up above your water level. I was pmel (calibration) in the air force..Love it.Went to school at port huneme (navy) school
Posted on Oct 25, 2008
Our machine , same model, was doing the same. Had a repairman cone out & it was the Motor Control unit, seems to be a fairly common problem. But now its fixed & working well.
Posted on Jan 14, 2010
Does machine stop filling if you discnnect from power? If it does, the problem lies with timer/control unit, or fault in pressure switch/ tube. Check pressure tube (thin rubber pipe that goes from water level selctor switch to side of outer bowl) for holes- replace if faulty. You can test pressure switch by remove pressure tube from outer bowl and blowing thru tube- you should hear the water level switch click when you blow, and then click again when you release pressure. If it keeps filling even with power off, you have a faulty inlet valve. If you remove top panel (3 screws along top rear-power off first!!), you will see the inlet valves- one for hot, one for cold. The valve is the thing the inlet hoses screw onto. New valves availble from any good spare parts supplier, relatively inexpensive part. Good luck!!
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
Testimonial: "Exactly pipointed the problem which is now fixed Thank you"
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