This n5005 nikon won't take a picture and i have put brand new batteries in it. when i press the shutter release button, the red LED lights inside blink + and - and a flash button like a lightning bolt. why won't it take the picture? :( (by the way, i am new to this non-digital camera)
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Re: camera won't take a picture
WHAT YOU ARE SEEING IS BASICALLY AN ERROR WARNING THAT THE SHUTTER SPEED IS NOT RIGHT FOR THE LIGHT CONDITION AND THE LIGHTNING BOLT USUALLY MEANS THE FLASH IS NEEDED. IF THIS IS A FILM CAMERA, IT IS PROBABLY WANTING YOU TO PUT IN THE CORRECT EXPOSURE SETTINGS FOR THE CONDITIONS. DOES THIS HAPPEN WITH ALL CONDITIONS? HAVE YOU TRIED OTHER SETTINGS ON THE CAMERA? LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE HELP.
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N65s were notorious for bad shutter release buttons. The metal is thinner than a strand of hair and they break. Search Ebay and see if the part is available to replace (note: Nikon stopped selling parts last year).
The camera should operate perfectly fine without a lens. It should also operate perfectly fine without film (other than for not taking any pictures, of course). I know this is stupid, but make sure the batteries are inserted in the proper direction. Then make sure the film advance mode selector around the shutter release button is not in the "L" position. L is for Lock, S is for single-frame, and C is for continuous. If you need a manual you may download a copy here.
Press the button down further. The shutter release button on these types of cameras has two modes, half way down causes the camera to autofocus, all the way down causes it to shoot. If the camera is in autofocus mode, it will not fire until it feels that is focused.
The battery check is by pressing a very small silver button on the top plate by the shutter release and the little red light come on right? there is only two small button batteries in the EM but without them it's a brick. So look inside the battery compartment and at the bottom you will see a spring piece of metal which the batter makes contact with. If it is corroded then you will have to clean that off to make contact again. Take a new pencil with a new unused red rubber eraser and form a piece of sand paper over the end of the pencil and tape it securely. Lightly twist the pencil back and forth between your fingers to sand off the corrosion, make it shinny. Blow out the dusty dirty stuff with a puffer make sure the batteries are installed correctly. Yes I know you said the batteries were in the right way install the batteries check wiht the battery test button. Also don't forget the EM is a totally battery dependent camera for the meter AND the meter will not work until you have the frame counter at frame # 1 and beyond. My Nikon EM has been slightly modified yours might not be the same but I can close the back and advance the lever trip the shutter and again until it reaches frame one and then the light meter works. Cheers great little camera hope you get it working
Press the SET/timer button (top left of the camera, behind the FUNCTION button, marked SET with a one-handed clock icon) and confirm that the one-handed clock begins blinking on the LCD panel. While pressing the SET/timer button, rotate the command dial one click to stop it blinking. Proceed normally (frame and compose picture, half-press shutter release button to meter and autofocus, etc). Fully depress the shutter release button to take the picture after a ten-second delay.
If you need a manual, you can download one from http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon.htm . Look for "N70", which was the name used in the USA.
A few things to try, based on my FG's operation:
- The most obvious- are your batteries good? Correct type?
If they are:
- When all is well the red LED metering lights will appear in the viewfinder window on the right side, in the range of shutter speed numbers.
- The red LED metering lights are only activated when you press the shutter release button (halfway). The lights go out after a few seconds if the shutter button is not held down. Just tap the shutter button to reactivate them.
- The shutter speed setting dial must NOT be on B (Bulb) or M90 (non-electronic Manual mode) if you want to see the red LED metering lights. The lights do not operate on these two settings because metering is irrelevant here (you'd be doing the metering, not the camera).
- If you're in P (Program mode) the lens aperture must be set all the way to the smallest setting (usually f22 or f16, depending on the lens). If not, you'll only see blinking lights at the top and bottom of the shutter speed range on the right in the viewfinder. That's a reminder to set the lens to the smallest (highest numeric) aperture.
Hope these help. The FG is a great little camera.
Not necessarily. The EM has an M90 setting which will fire the shutter at 1/90th of a second. The meter is inactive on this setting. It was put on the EM so that if the batteries fail, you can shoot at 1/90th and take a guess at the exposure. There is also a small button (blue or chrome, depending on the production run) which lights up a red LED if the batteries are good. The light meter doesn't work until the frame counter is at 1 or higher. Before the #1, the shutter will always fire at 1/2000th of a second to speed up the film loading process. You can tell that the meter is working by observing the meter's scale/needle on the inside of the viewfinder. If it is pointing out of the red zone, it's OK to shoot (proper exposure). If the needle is in the red zone (indicating under or over exposure) the camera will "beep" as an audible warning. Check the battery condition first.