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Check the valve under your sink. If that's on go to the dishwasher. Remove the bottom panel. Locate the water inlet valve (usually on the left hand side. Pull the two wires from it and put your voltmeter on it. Start the dishwasher and watch the meter. If it shows 120v then the valve is bad. if you don't get 120v, the board or timer is bad.
The E4 error is not usually associated with newer dishwashers. Older
Kenmore dishwashers with digital displays would show an E4 error when
the selector switch pads/buttons were stuck. You need someone In to look at it im afraid
The blinking "clean light" is a common problem with some of the Kenmore and Whirlpool models dishwashers. The problem is usually attributed to water supply temperatures being too low when filling.
Apparently, there are some issues with the temperature sensing circuits in some dishwashers that causes an error code to be generated if a certain water temperature is not achieved in a specified time interval (this time may differ between models). There is a reset sequence that you can try to clear the fault. Push the NORMAL WASH then HEATED DRY buttons in that sequence two to three times. The unit will enter diagnostics mode, but can be stopped by pressing the CANCEL button. This will clear any existing faults and should return the dishwasher to normal operation.
To keep the fault from returning, it is recommended that you run your hot water faucet in the kitchen until it runs hot BEFORE you start the dishwasher. This will heat the water in the supply line for the dishwasher (most dishwashers are fed from the kitchen sink supply line).
The theory is that if you fill the dishwasher with hot water from the start of the wash cycle instead of the cool water that is normally in the lines (especially if you have a hot water tank located far away from the kitchen), this should satisfy the requirements of the temperature sensing circuits. If the fault reappears, there should be a tech sheet located inside the lower panel under the door that explains what the fault is. The flashing light will be a series of flashes, followed by a pause. If you indeed have a component problem, it will depend on the number of flashing lights in the sequence. Refer to the tech sheet to determine WHAT component is affected and how to troubleshoot.
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sounds like you have a stuck key pad on the touch control board. there is no easy way to check this, but you can unplug the "ribbon" strip from the control board. then you will need to jumper the board to see if you can force the unit to run by bypassing the key pad. i cant find an exact match for your model number, but if you check the wiring diagram, behind the lower access panel, it will show you which 2 terminals can turn on a cycle. the best thing i can tell you is to just replace the control panel with a touch pad assembly. it could cost about 125-150 bucks, but that should fix the problem.
I'm not sure if that replacemetn part would work, but I know you can get cheap stainless panels and faux stainless options at applianceart.com. They have colors, textures, seasonal, designs, and stainless steel. You can choose between faux stainless (as seen on HGTV and the Today show) or regular stainless metal. check out www.applianceart.com