Question about GE PSS26SHRSS Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Refrigerator does not run. Exterior indicators flashing on and off.

Refrigerator stopped running for no reason. Interior Temperature control does not function, but all interior lights work, indicating refrigerator is getting proper power. All exterior indicator lights are flashing on and off intermittently and a clicking noise can be heard. I have unplugged to the refrigerator to see if I could clear the problem to no avail. I suspect the Main Control Board, but was hoping someone else had experienced this problem and that it may be something simple like a stuck relay or rest button. Any ideas?

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  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 30, 2006

    I have a Revison 1 Motherboard, so I jumpered J11 and J8 at the three-pronged blue harness. The compressor runs just fine as I suspected (I had previously performed resistance checks of the compressor wingings and they were normal). I disconnected J2 and tried to get a good reading between pins J2-8 to J2-3. The voltage was flucuating between 0 and 11, as I could not get a steady reading. So, I decided to double-check the numbering scheme at J2 to make sure I was reading across the correct pins. As I was doing this, the compressor started running and all the displays seemed to be functioning normally. When I plugged J2 back in, everything stopped, and the indicator lights started flickering on and off again. I'm assuming the motherboard is bad at this point. Am I correct to assume this?

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jul 16, 2007

    I noticed this was still listed as a problem when, in fact, you advice helped me fix this a looooong time ago. It was the control board that had failed. Thanks.

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Jsrock, if you can do some voltage checks we can help you with this board issue. The thing thats throwing me is the clicking you are hearing. On that board, on the bottom you have a three pronged harness that is blue. Should say J8, J9 and J4 which is line. Get some jumper wire with clips on each end and jump line to compressor, J4 and J8.(Rev1 boards was J11 and J8). You are now sending 120V directly to the compressor and if it is good, it should start and you can rule it out. After this, unplug the J2 connector from the board. Check for 12VDC, not AC, at pins J2-8 to J2-3. If you do not have that voltage, replace the main board. If you do have that voltage, you have a short in either the condensor fan motor or evap fan motor circuits. Carefull, you will be working around live juice here. Catriver...post back.

Posted on Sep 30, 2006

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The back of the fridge is frozen and food is not getting cold anymore


Try this first:

Self Diagnostics

To enter Self Diagnostic mode, both temperature control panel displays must be illuminated. A display can be illuminated by pressing an adjacent temperature adjustment button. When both displays are illuminated, set the freezer and refrigerator temperature settings to 5. Simultaneously press and hold all

4 temperature adjustment buttons for approximately 3 seconds. A flashing 0 in the refrigerator and freezer displays will indicate that the refrigerator is in Self Diagnostic mode.

For temperature control panels with single-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test. Press the HOLD button for 3 seconds to begin the test.


For temperature control panels with 3-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in

the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test

code. Press any button other than a temperature adjust button to begin the test.

When testing has been completed, do one of the following things:

• Enter code 1 5 to completely reset the system.

• Enter code 1 6 to exit diagnostic mode. The temperature control panel is reset automatically.

• Unplug the refrigerator for at least 10 seconds. Test mode will terminate when the refrigerator is plugged back in.
Test mode will terminate automatically after 15 minutes of inactivity.


You need to cycle your freezer display to indicate 0 and your refrigerator display to 7.


Control and Sensor System Self-Test (0 7)

This test checks all five thermistors located throughout the unit. Once the test is initiated, the test code (0 7) will stop flashing and the thermistor test results will appear on the freezer display in the test order listed below. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display.

If the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option, the third thermistor (quick chill) will display a 0 and 3 audible beeps will sound at the temperature control panel. This is not a failure if the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option.

Thermistor test results:

• P = Pass

• 0 = Failed

• S = Short to 5 VDC

• B = Bad amplifier

Thermistor test sequence is:

1. Fresh food top thermistor

2. Fresh food bottom thermistor

3. Quick chill thermistor (displays 0 if unit is not equipped with Quick Chill option)

4. Evaporator thermistor

5. Freezer thermistor

Note: Thermistor test results will be displayed in the sequence shown above. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display.


Note the failures if any. Should ANY of thermistors fail you must replace it.


Having said that... at this point your stick with doing a manual defrost by unplugging the unit and directing a fan into the compartment for just over 2 hours to make sure ALL of the ice on the coils and in the drains has melted. (Yes it makes a water mess!)


After the manual defrost restart the unit / plug it in and once the compressor starts listen for the evaporator fan when the door switch is actuated and the condenser fan in the bottom of the unit any time the compressor is running. If either of the fans are not running you must find out why. Can be a door switch, motor winding or power to the motor. The door switch does not affect the condenser fan.


Finally if the unit is not automatically defrosting due to a component failure... i.e

Heater, themistor, or wiring you will see ice build up again in 2 to 3 days again and you will have to keep going through the manual defrosting routine until the automatic defrosting problem is resolved.


Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Mar 27, 2011 | GE Profile Stainless Bottom-Freezer...

2 Answers

Control board clicks every 3 sec. No cooling. No fan or compressor running.


Avanb, I can almost assure you that the control board is the problem. I'm assuming that the interior lights are on, but no fans and the compressor is not running. To make sure, first unplug the temperature control harness. (encoder). If the refrigerator starts running, replace the temperature control board (encoder board. If it doesn't start running, replace the main board in back. To remove the control panel, remove the 2 screws located on the bottom. Slide the panel down. Then just disconnect the harness to the temperature control. Catriver.

Aug 03, 2007 | Hotpoint HSS25GFP Side by Side...

1 Answer

Freezer FZ175 Red Warning Light is flashing


The flashing red light indicates the problem in the temperature of the unit.The temperature is rising over then required so the red light is flashing. There are some possibilities that you will have to get checked.
1) Make sure your freezer/refrigerator door is closing properly and sealing all around.If the doors are not closing properly then this can lead to rise in temperature.
2) If doors are proper and closed properly then other possibility is to check the compressor .Check the compressor is it running properly or its not running.Beside the compressor there is a fan if the fan is running the compressor is turning on if fan is not running the compressor is not running.If the unit is not getting very cold this also indicates the problem is in the compressor section.A weak or faulty compressor causes the temperature rise problem.
3) If compressor also checks out ok then the other possibility is fault in the thermostat of the unit.The thermostat is getting overheated and this is causing the red light flashing.
4) Before replacing any part in the unit try the defrost procedure first .Keep the unit unplugged from power and keep both the freezer/refrigerator doors open .let it remain unplugged for 24 hours.Then reconnect the power and check for some time.If the unit works properly that means defrost procedure solved the problem.But if same error light comes On flashing that means the faulty part needs replacement.
You can get required parts for your refrigerator from the on-line sites like :--
www.partsselect.com.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jun 04, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

When the temperature control on my refrigerator is set to medium or higher the indicator starts flashing and the fridge stops working. What could be the problem?


the temp controller ie either out of range or the fam motor is arching out when you switch to a higher mode that causes the fan motor to run longer too!! check the fan motor or change it that should fix your probelm

Jan 15, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The refrigerator has been running since we plugged


I think it needs replacing. In some cases, the thermometer is actually the front of the controller of the unit. This could be why it runs constantly. I would also look at the condenser coils and make sure they are really clean.
let's start there. let me know if I can help further.

Jun 14, 2009 | Delfield DEL-SSR3S Spec Line 3 door...

1 Answer

We just purchased a ge profile refrigerator today, and cannot get it off of demo mode


You have to go into the Diagnostic mode to see if you can reset this issue or if the main board in back is bad. Here's how to do it:

To enter Self Diagnostic mode, both temperature control panel displays must be illuminated. A display can be illuminated by pressing an adjacent temperature adjustment button. When both displays are illuminated, set the freezer and refrigerator temperature settings to 5. Simultaneously press and hold all 4 temperature adjustment buttons for approximately 3 seconds. A flashing 0 in the refrigerator and freezer displays will indicate that the refrigerator is in Self Diagnostic mode.

For temperature control panels with single-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test. Press the HOLD button for 3 seconds to begin the test.

For temperature control panels with 3-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test code. Press any button other than a temperature adjust button to begin the test.

First, run the control and thermistor test:

Control and Sensor System Self-Test (0 7)
This test checks all five thermistors located throughout the unit. Once the test is initiated, the test code (0 7) will stop flashing and the thermistor test results will appear on the freezer display in the test order listed below. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display. If the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option, the third thermistor (quick chill) will display a 0 and 3 audible beeps will sound at the temperature control panel. This is not a failure if the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option.

Thermistor test results:
• P = Pass
• 0 = Failed
• S = Short to 5 VDC
• B = Bad amplifier

When testing has been completed, do the following :
• Enter code 1 5 to completely reset the system. Then press the Hold button (or any other button than a temperature button) to accept the code.

When you're done, unplug the refrigerator for 10 seconds and plug it in....if it does not run, the board is bad.

Jun 14, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Hot refrigerator


There are 2 or 3 things that would cause this. first make sure the condenser coils are not plugged with dust (vacumn or blow them out) next check to make sure the fan that cools these coils is running, (this is the most likely problem). if both of these check out ok then you would need to check to make sure your interior lights ar going off when the doors are closed as these will add extra heat and cause the center rails to run hot. last and most uncommon would be a freon system problem.  

fyi there is a hot gas freon line that runs in between the doors to prevent exterior sweating. when poor or no air flow problems for the condenser coil exist it causes this area to become hotter. 
One more thing. if you do determine that the condenser fan motor is bad you can put a normal house fan blowing on to the coil to help cool this area down until you can get the unit repaired. 
If you need any further assistance leave me a comment here and I'll gladly get back to you. Thanks Peyton
 
 

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1 Answer

Temperature Displays Flash


just stop getting cold, both sides no ice, everything runs, bought new, sat in storage 3 years, been running 2 years

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4 Answers

GE Profile does not run.


Just to be sure... check your owners manual to see if this unit has a "showroom switch". It's a little switch that turns off the compressor, etc. but lets everything else light up so the sales persono on the showroom floor can show it off. Some customers have hit the switch to "on" during cleaning by accident.

Sep 29, 2006 | GE Profile PSS26NGS Side by Side...

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