Question about Lightning Audio FF150.2 Car Audio Amplifier

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Fried outputs perhaps?

I've been using this amp to power my front components for a few months now. Anyways, yesterday I was playing music fairly loud and it worked fine the rest of the ride home after I turned down the music. I get in my car today and there's no sound. I tested all my power with a DMM and I get voltage into the amp, my RCA's are good (checked them too, and used another pair too). The music does play very very faintly but hardly audible. I'm thinking somehow my outputs got fried. Any way I can fix this? I know how to take apart the amp and solder and such, but where are the likely spots that could have died? Would it be some resistor or capacitor inside that I need to replace or what? I have another amp on the way but if I can fix this that would make be glad.

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SOURCE: how do i fixed my over powed Lightning Audio amp,b150.2

I know this is an old post but for anybody viewing this for reference to the same problem and same amp, it would cost more to fix it than to get a new one. That depends on who or what shop does the repairing. I do amp repairs very cheap. I have been in business for a few years and get lots of business. I'd say half comes from this site. I am out to help all us audio gear heads. In this time and the way the economy is money is tight. So if anybody needs an amp repaired, send me a message. There is no place cheaper to repair amps of any kind. Hope to hear from anyone needing my services.

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

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SOURCE: I have checked all connections to my amp

from my experience you have to have the remote wired hooked up. if i unhook mine ( i dont use a remote either) i makes my amp not work

Posted on Jan 25, 2010

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How many watts per channel?

Hi Peter.

Your question is fairly open, so I'll give a couple of answers to anticipate:
  1. If you're wanting to match the amp to your speakers, you want to go above the power rating of the speakers, but not hugely so. If you have 40 watt speakers, you don't want a 40-WPC amp because it'll be running at full power to use the speaker capacity, and it'll probably sound awful. Amps are much smoother when you're not coming close to their capacity, and your music will sound better. Likewise, a 40 watt speaker running at 40 watts will also sound pretty bad. The limits on speakers usually allude to damage thresholds, or limits where they'll distort like a stump-talking politician. Talk to a dealer about how much 'THD' (Total harmonic distortion) the amp has at different power levels, and how to match it to your speakers.
  2. If your goal is to be able to announce your presence from a block away from the subsonic thudding escaping from the interior, you'll still want to look at the speaker ratings and spec the amp perhaps 50-100% higher than the speaker capacity. Full power on a big subwoofer will still sound crummy if you're driving it to capacity, but in some cases people won't care so long as it's loud. (I don't advise this route - I'll tell you from first hand experience with loud environments as a younger person that being several decades older and constantly missing parts of conversations is no fun)
Hoping this helps!

Nov 30, 2015 | Car Amplifiers


How to set gain controls on you car audio amplifier


The ADD version -

1. Play a typically loud music CD in your headunit. Set volume to 75%. Wear ear protection.
2. Starting with the amp gains at their lowest setting, slowly raise one gain at a time until you hear clipping from the corresponding speaker. This will sound like audible distortion.
3. Once you've found the clipping point, back the gain down until you no longer hear the distortion.
4. Repeat for any addt'l gains on the amp/amps.
5. Your new maximum volume setting on the headunit is 75%, never exceed that for happy, healthy speaker life.

(This is the quick & dirty method, it'll get you 80% to proper settings. Read on for the other 20%.)

How to do things right -

What's gain?
Also known as input sensitivity, gains are the small, typically recessed "volume knobs" on most equipment between the speakers & the headunit. All amps have them, also many EQ's, line output converters, some crossovers.

What's it for?
The idea is to properly match the output from different pieces of gear so that each communicates the cleanest signal to the other, resulting in maximum performance and minimal noise & risk of damage.

Know your enemy - Clipping.
Clipping is the tech term for the distortion that occurs when an amplifier is pushed beyond it's capabilities. In simple terms it sounds like significant distortion of the musical peaks. So for instance a big drum strike will sound muddy or distorted when turned up, but remains clear at a lower volume. That's clipping. What's happening is the amp momentarily runs out of power.

To properly understand this w/o an engineering degree you need to know the difference between constant power (RMS) and peak power. Constant power, very simply, is the amount of juice your amp can produce consistantly. Since there are some standards for measuring this it is one of the few benchmarks we have for amplifiers. But since sound waves are exactly that - waves, with peaks & valleys - understand that an amp's output is never constant, it has to increase & decrease with the music signal.

The amp's "reserve power" is what it uses to deal with the peaks in the music. This is called peak power, or my favorite, headroom. Headroom is typically about twice the RMS power of an amp, but can only be sustained for a few milliseconds before the amp gets totally winded.

So a good way to think of this is a 10 yr old jumping on a bed - that's the music signal. The bed is the amp's RMS power, the ceiling above is the headroom limit. If the kid jumps too high he whacks his head - that's clipping. Do it a couple times & he'll survive. Do it repeatedly & there WILL be permanant damage. This is the single biggest speaker killer out there.

So the object of the game is to adjust the bed height (by using the gains) to the right height so the kid can jump around like a caffeinated monkey without ever whacking into the ceiling. So setting the gains properly allows you to get the amp's maximum output without overtaxing the equipment. With me so far?

A few other basics -
To do this properly you'll need a few things:

Ear protection. Stuff some cotton in your ears if you don't have anything better.

A test CD with a sine wave set to 0db, a 50-80hz stereo tone is ideal. This is important - it's far more accurate than using a music CD. You can purchase these at most any guitar or pro music stores, Amazon, or download a program to make your own. Making your own isn't recommended since there are a lot of variables in computers that can affect the final product.

If you have a crossover, you'll need test tones within the frequency range for each amp. For instance if you have a dedicated sub amp crossed over at 80hz, get a 60hz test tone. For your mains, work with a 120hz tone. If you have a 3-way or more crossover, adjust appropriately, just be sure the test frequency is within the bounds of the speaker range. Test each frequency seperately.

Fader, tone controls, loudness/expansion, etc.
Ideally you'll have the sound from your headunit/EQ completely flat on a normal basis. If so, be sure everything's this way before you test. However, if you KNOW you'll have the bass boost activated, some sort of expansion, or the tone controls preset in some way then go ahead & set them before you test.

Otherwise it's best to have everything flat. If you choose to adjust the tone controls later & leave them that way you can always repeat the process. Regardless, be sure the fader & balance are zeroed out.

Dedicated sub volume controls
A lot of amps have outboard sub volume knobs & headunits frequently have dedicated internal sub volume adjustments. If you plan on using these they should be maxed before setting your gains. If you're not going to use them, best to de-activate them.

Set all amp gains to their lowest point before starting. Usually full counter-clockwise.

Input sensitivity switches
If your amp has a selector switch for different input sensitivities, start by setting it to the highest setting. These are typically expressed in voltages, for example .2-1v, 1-3v, 3-8v. Start with the higher numbers (ex. 3-8v) (lowest sensitivity). If you can't get the amp to clip at those settings, try the next one down until you find the clipping point. You can disregard generally what the markings themselves say since there's no real standard for measuring that stuff. Never trust your system's well-being to those voltage numbers, they're just a guideline best ignored.

Work with one gain at a time.
For example, if you have a L&R gain for your front speakers, you'll be working with each side seperately. If multiple amps, unplug all but the amp you're working with. If a 4+ channel amp, typically you'll have only a single L & R gain, so treat it like a 2 channel. If it has more gains, isolate each & adjust seperately.

Play your test tone thru the headunit. Adjust your headunit volume to 75% of max.
This doesn't need to be precise, just be sure you know where this setting is b/c it's now the HIGHEST you'll ever turn up the volume on the headunit.

(But the amps go to 11...! You're using 75% volume because some CD's will be louder than others. Also b/c there's a small amp in the headunit that will clip if pushed too far. Trust me on this one.)

Now turn up the gain you're working with until you hear the tone quality change - it'll be a distinct change in the tone, there will be distortion. This is where your amp clips. Now turn the gain back down to just below where that distortion occurs. That gain's now set. Repeat for all other gains. Repeat for all other amps.

Final tweaking -
Have an EQ? Want to use the "loudness" button? Want to adjust the bass/mid/treble controls? If you're making minor tweaks (+/-1) there's no real need to worry about gains. If you're talking about bigger changes (+4/-3, etc) you may want to run the tones again to be sure you're still set right.

Also now that the gains are properly set you can adjust them DOWN to balance your system. Need more front volume but don't have a fader? Turn down the rear gains. Sub underpowered? Turn down the mains. The important thing is to never turn them UP from where they are, just down.

A few other notes -

Can't I just use an O-scope or DMM to set gains?
Sure, IF you know the exact output (rarely the rated output) of your amp and you're a freakin' genius with your toys. Generally more accurate & far easier to use your ears.

What about the gains on the EQ/X-over/line-output converter?
Ooh, good question. The general idea here is to follow the same process but use the gains that are the furthest UPSTREAM (I.E. closest to the headunit) and set all the others to their lowest setting. This will send the hottest signal possible thru all the components. Just remember that anywhere the signal splits you'll have to set them there also. For example, if you have a LOC & an outboard crossover you'll need to set gains on both, starting with the LOC. This can get tricky. Let your ears guide you.

What if my headunit says "9v output" and the amp only says "5v input?"
Eh, doesn't really matter. Again, there isn't really any set standard for measuring this stuff & it's usually just marketing. Also remember that music is a wave, not a line, so that rated output is usually a max, not a constant. Just set everything according to the above process, nothing changes.

on Mar 27, 2010 | Car Amplifiers

1 Answer

Shorted Out a JL Audio E4300 Amp

The screw through the speaker wire caused a dead short and turninged it up loud, you may have fried the capacitors on the output side of the amp circuit. It is easy to tell if you open the amp up, but do so with it disconnected and out of the car. The tops of the caps may be split or bulged. It is worth fixing in my opinion.

Feb 12, 2012 | Car Amplifiers

1 Answer

Sleuthing a 300/4 low-ohm issue. 300/4 amp history: unknown. just connected today whole system yesterday/today: head unit, 300/4(to 4 polk 6.5" component speakers brand new) 1000/1 (4-W3's),...

Are you sure you getting enough power to push everything. I have seen when the voltage is too low coming in, the amps will shut down so they don't overheat. Once they've cooled off and the volume level is lowered they will kick in again. Low voltage and a heavy draw will create massive amounts of heat.

May 24, 2011 | Jl Audio 500/1 Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

My amp burn one of my 3 subs and i keep playing

You are probably exceeding the rating for the speakers. This amp can deliver 2000 watts to a 2 ohm load. You would need MASSIVE speakers to take this much power. The best of speakers can probably take an HONEST 400 watts... although most LIE big time about their capability. ALSO the spaekers have to have an ENGINEERED enclosure when run at high power. It is unlikely you cna drive 3 speakers evenly so they share the power... one is gonna get fried first...
then the remaining ones will fry...

ALSO make sure you don't send music pitches higher than what the speakers are designed to take. Make sure your crossover prevents highs from getting to subs.

Dec 22, 2009 | Crossfire VR2000D Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer


It indicating that the power output is too loud and possibility of speakers may get damaged if played at this volume for long periods. When the loudest sound is played the led light mightshow its loosing its brightness and dims in time with the sound level.......................sodeep

Jan 17, 2009 | Jl Audio 500/1 Car Audio Amplifier

3 Answers

Kicker 750.1 Amp wont play music

it is probably the rca inputs on the amp may have fried. was your cd decked turned up loudly before the power went out? did any wires accidently touch each other? If had worked fine and then suddenly stopped, than either a wire came loose or the inputs fried. try using different cables and I also suggest disconnecting power for 24 hours and then reconnect. If the green light is on then it is getting power and the problem is in the rca cables or the inputs

Jun 03, 2008 | Kicker 06ZX750.1 Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

MRV-F540 Amp shuts off when turning music up

The amp may have defective components, but it is still salvageable. first of all lets discuss what is happening. The amp is cutting off because of excessive current flow. which means one or some of you components have become thermally sensative. You can find out which components they are by using a can of cool mist or any other component cooling spray. this will allow you to find the problem quickly. Now in addition to this you may have to forego the tricks and do some real troubleshooting. Get a schematic of the device and try to take voltage readings to see which components are at fault.

May 16, 2007 | Alpine MRV-F540 Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

Playing my music, then amp goes out? anyway to fix it?

Looks to me like u are having a power problem. Check if power is going to your amp, if yes, check the fuse on the amp. If ok, check the powersupply section for any damage components and replace.

Dec 18, 2006 | Sony XM-2200GTX Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer


that big coil of wires ytou described is the transformer for the switching power supply. Sounds like you over heated it and blew out the supply or the output section. From what you described you should take or send this unit into be serviced as there are no user serviceable parts in this unit except a fudse maybe and if thats blown theres more problems as thats there ( the fuse) just so the whole bloody thing dosent burn up your car! Good Luck

Jun 14, 2006 | Rockford Fosgate Punch 300S Car Audio...

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