Here's what i would do.
Make a diagram of the serpentine belt routing then remove the serpentine belt. Start the engine and try to duplicate the symptom. Only run the engine for a few minutes as the water pump will not be driven by the belt unless you have the DOHC 3.0 liter.
If the noise is gone than you can concentrate on the accessories (alternator, water pump, a/c compressor, p/s pump, idler pulley, tensioner, etc).
If the noise is still present reinstall the serpentine belt.
If it sounds like a tinny rattle than it could be an exhaust heat shield. When the engine is cold raise and properly support the vehicle and start tapping the exhaust to see if you can find anything loose.
If there is nothing loose than I would suggest having your local shop take a listen. A trained ear will be able to quickly tell what the noise is and some possible causes.
Hope that helps. let me know if you have any questions or what you or your shop finds out. Thanks for using Fixya.com!
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa
SOURCE: car idles low, stalls after start
Common issue at the shop (i'm a ford technician), here is what I do to correct it.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
SOURCE: The RPMs go up and down when in park.
get new plug wires and make sure they arn't arking acoss or touching the manifold
SOURCE: Car rev up and down at startup, also car jerks at release of gas
This sounds like a vacuum control problem. Since part of the problem is when the engine is cold; a thermal switch is venting vacuum until the engine warms up enough to shut down the thermal switch, thus restoring a steady idle. Vacuum can be affecting high rpms while running too. You could have a misrouted EGR vacuum line opening the valve at the wrong time. There are sometimes hose routing decals on the radiator shroud or under the hood. These can be visibly checked.
SOURCE: 94 nissan sentra brake light/ battery light
Your alternator is dead/dying. Nissan puts both of those lights on to tell you that the alternator isn't charging your battery.
SOURCE: 2008 chev impala turn car off but key wont go to
those had alot of problems with the ignition switch. remove and replace switch, good luck.
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Year, make, model, and engine size?
The car is a 2002 Mercury Sable SE. It has a 6 cylinder in it.
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