Question about Stoves 1000DFDL Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range

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Replacing/refixing roller mechanism to door catch of fan oven

The top screw holding the door catch roller mechanism to the fan oven on my Stoves 1000DFDL has come loose and no longer holds the top of the roller mechanism in place, making the door difficult/impossible to close. the roller catch mechanism moves back slightly when you try to close the door which means that the catch on the door itself does not get caught by the rollers.
The first question is, is the roller mechanism held in place with a nut on the end of the screw or is there a thread in the body of the mechanism which may have stripped causing the screw not to be able to hold it in place?
If it is a nut how do you access the mechanism to replace it?
If there is a thread in the mechanism, is it an option to tap a slightly oversize thread and to fix a slightly oversize screw in it?
If the only solution is to replace the roller mechnism completely, can you give details how to do this and how to access the mechanism?

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5 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: Fan oven stays warm

is the fan working when oven is staying warm? possible fault if you don't have an earth trip is a short to earth on the neutral side of the element

Posted on Mar 26, 2007

  • 139 Answers

SOURCE: Removing door on top oven

Pus the top part of the hinge down as it is on springs and try and pull is out.

Its hard to explain this.
or you can try to squeeze the two parts of the hinge to force the top part down, and basically yank it out.

I have to say again it hard to explain but thats the basic procdure..

Dont give me a bad rating please im trying to help ya

washdoctor

Posted on Aug 25, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Seized screws in Stoves 'Range 1000G Gas Range Cooker (LPG)

I let the screws soak for a few days in release oil but with no success. I decided the only way to get the seized screws out was to drill and tap new holes through the hob and into the hob burner mixing tube support flanges. This allowed new screws (stainless as opposed to the standard, chrome plated steel screws) to be screwed into place. Once this was done I then drilled out the heads of the remaining seized screws. This allowed the hob tops to be removed so that the oven thermostats could be changed. The hob screws were then screwed back into place and lubricated with loads of high temp. copper grease to prevent corrosion. I will also remove and re-grease these screws every six months or so to prevent any chance of seizure in future!

A few points to remember: (a) make sure that any holes in the hob top are sealed with something such as a screw coated with high temp fire cement etc. to prevent any possibility of unburnt LPG getting into the space below the hob top. (b) make SURE that you do not drill or tap into anything that could damage the cooker and cause a gas leak or damage any of the gas ignition leads etc. (c) Make sure that the appliance is totally 'gas tight' after doing any work which will disturb the gas connections, and (d) If you don't have gas qualifications and are not sure of what you are doing then get an expert, registered gas engineer to do the work for you. Don't take a chance with gas!!

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

  • 160 Answers

SOURCE: Newhome 1000dfdl main fan oven appears to stay at

whilst the fan is running the heating element which is usually in parallel with it should heat.. This usually means a faulty element whilst the temperature light remains on.
but if the temperture light is off then its likely to be a faulty thermostat

Posted on Dec 18, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Top oven thermostat Stoves 800DF - fitting?

you dont need to remove the front panel, you need to undo the two black screws on the side of the hob unit, remove the two plastic plugs they went through allowing you to raise the hob, and remove just the back off the cooker this provides you access to all the areas you need you can then follow where all the cables go oh yes nearly forgot the thermostat is held in place by two screws you simply pull the knob off and there they are. ive just done the fan oven one and it seemed fairly straight forward, but please do remember to turn off the power to the cooker first all the connections push on using spade connectors, oh yes for legal reasons this is for information only and i wont be held liable for injury or damage caused by unqualified people following this information to fix it themselves as i would always have to recommend that you use a competant person ie a person who is trained, experienced and has sufficient knowledge to do the job, but those that do want to fix it do so at their own risk and i hope all goes well with getting the problem fixed

Posted on Mar 27, 2010

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First things first. The top oven lights ONLY come on when the top oven is switched on. Operating the grill DOES NOT turn the lights on. If you wish to see what you are grilling, you have to turn the top oven control knob on to its first position as well as turning the grill on.
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Try a) Lubricate the latches. I sprayed wd-40, you probably can use vegetable oil. Both sides, latch and receptor. Just doing this may fix your problem. (I have to admit I did part b first before trying this so I am not sure, but after doing this, it made my part b fix work even better)

b) Failing this, I found opening it up (t-20 torx screw driver) and tying a wire in the top hole, through the bottom latch body and fastening to a bottom hole of the microwave frame to force the mechanism to stay in place. You want to pull it towards the oven cavity. This will keep it from bending out of alignment. I found that it is only the bottom latch that has to catch for the microwave to sense the door is closed.

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