Question about Kenmore Dryers
I have a Kenmore Elite gas dryer (Model: 74996) that I purchased in 2003 that has stopped working all of a sudden without any warnings. It was working great while it did. Now the drum spins without heating the clothes as long as the Start button is kept pushed. The moment the Start switch is let go off, the dryer stops immediately.
I tried opening the control panel by taking off screws on the outer backsides of the control but I still don't have any idea of how to take the control panel apart for further investigation with a multimeter. I opened a small square plate from the rear side of the control panel and took out the service technical sheet and tried out the instructions on troubleshooting the dryer by getting the dryer into the test mode. But the dryer wouldn't even enter test mode.
I read on the web that the EvenHeat computer board on Kenmore Elite had lots of issues, and I am wondering if my symptoms point to the same issue. Would someone please help me with instructions on how to take the control panel apart, with possibly some diagrams or photos of a similar model?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
SOURCE: GE dryer starts but..... stops
What you describe is either a failed evenheat board or a failed motor relay.
Please post the complete model number from the machine and I can help you narrow it down. There should be a wiring diagram inside the console with voltage checks also.
Posted on Nov 25, 2007
Check the glow coil ,if its not glowing run a test for voltage when its heating ,should be around 117 volts.check thermal fuse.
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Posted on Aug 11, 2008
yes, a DIY person can replace a thermal cutoff. just open the rear of the unit and look for parts with big red wires connected to it. it is round, one small and one big. both have two terminal clips.
if you can find the schematics inside the switch panel, then it would help you further. the thermal cutoff consist of two pc. replace both even one of them has continuity.
tnx 4 using fixya,
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer
I had this same problem a couple of years ago. I replaced the circuit board located in the top part of the dryer and it has been fine since. The part cost $95 over the internet.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
SOURCE: dryer will not heat
It may not be your heating element. Your dryer lint vent pipe out the back of the machine or maybe out the
side may be plugged. You have to pull the machine out and clear
that pipe or rebuild it out to a soffit vent or static vent if it is in
the attic, or out through your crawl space. This will make a huge
difference. If that hot air and moisture doesn't get out of the
machine it just goes back into your clothes.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
Before assuming you may have a component failure, do a little routine inspection of the dryer and exhaust vent ducting.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be because the exhaust ventilation ducting is clogged. If you can't remember the last time the exhaust vent was cleaned, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to dryer performance problems. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat, causing poor drying results and eventual failure. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.
There is no lint screen that catches ALL the dryer lint. Some lint will always get exhausted with the moisture from your clothing. If the exhaust vent is kinked or has excessive bends that create choke points, lint will accumulate in these points. Once the lint starts to accumulate, the moisture from your clothes starts to collect in it, and more lint get trapped. This eventually creates a clog. The Rule of Thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust ventilation ducting, the BETTER.
A simple test to determine if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry as they should, then you need to inspect the ducting thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.
If your exhaust vent runs to an attic, this is a poor design that gravity will always win because of the resistance the blower fan meets trying to push the exhaust up the wall. The lint will eventually collect in the ducting going up the wall and have to cleaned out from time to time.
Also, make sure you don't crush the dryer hose behind the dryer when you push it up against the wall. You should always leave plenty of space behind a dryer to prevent this from happening.
Rodents and birds are anotehr cause of dryer problems. If they have access to the outside exhaust vents, birds will build nests in them and mice love a warm place with plenty of bedding material (lint makes a nice nest). Make sure the exhaust vent is at least a foot from the ground and use a louver type cover to keep pests outside. Do not use a screen. It can resist air flow and clog.
In addition, you should be using semi-rigid metal type ducting that resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation.
If the air flow is weak, then you need to inspect the dryer INTERIOR to see if the air blower is working properly and is not clogged. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. Failue to do so can lead to component failures and is a potential fire hazard.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
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