Coils on freezer are freezing up,Refrigerator getting warm,replaced element and relay that defrost coil.It worked fine for a month and noew the same problem plz help.This is a Maytag Plus with ice and water on outside ...MSD 2356 AE
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On your model your cntrl board has a relay that can stick causing the compressor to always run even when the unit is turned off or in defrost. turn the fridge off, move the temp of the freezer to it's warmest setting and it should display a line in the freezer and fridge temp display. listen to hear if the compressor is running in back of the unit. if it is you need part number: 12868513
The defrost relay may be the problem,it also coud be the defrost heating element,you will have to remove the back panel inside the freezer side and do a continuity check on heating element if that has continuity then element is good,then the relay which is located on the wiring loop to defrost element is probably bad.locate a replacemant part and replace relay and that should solve the ice on the coils.
Amana refrig have 2 main problems . 1 is the defrost bimetal ( 1" cylinder at the top right on the freezer coils with 2 wires ) and the other is a refrigerant leak where the copper tubing joins the aluminum tubing at the freezer coils ( evaporator coils ) . If your freezer fan is not working and you have frost on the freezer coils then replace the bimetal as this also controls the defrost heater ( defrost thermostat ) . If you have no frost on the coils ( for both checks , you will have to remove the inside rear freezer panel , maybe 12 screws ) , then a refrigerant leak has happened and the best solution would be to replace the refrig .
I would be checking the defrost element is not open circuit. Defrost element is the black tube under the evap. From fully defrosted they will run for a week or so B4 you'll notice the fridge warming again.
You first need to check your defrost heater for continuity if none this is your problem if it has continuity it is good and you will need to replace your adaptive control board part # AP4010220 ? Enter your complete model # at www.appliancehelponline.com for illustrations and correct parts. The model # listed should have a few more digits thats why I ? the part # I listed. There is also a troubleshooting page that can help walk you thru testing these components.
warm between doors is normal. if hot then clean coils and if coils clean make sure condenser fan motor working thats the fan in the back compartment, however if warm thats good. did the evaporator coil freeze from top to btm is that why u replaced heater. if it was then could be heater,if the coil is only getting frost on half the coil,you could have a sealed system problem. is the evaporator motor working in the frz side if not,then that could be the problem.if coil is froze up it needs to be defrosted. did you defrost coil when you replaced heater,if not try defrosting coils and then wait about 12 hrs and see how it does.
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
Your defrost element is faulty, this is attached to the bottom of the freezer coils and also has a defrost limiting thermodisc which should be replaced at the same time. You are getting a freeze up and therefore no air circulation. Also check that the fanmotor is ok.
it is almost certainly a defrost problem. when fault has occured, remove freezer bzck panel and see if there is ice build-up. if so this confirms a defrost problem - possibly that the element is open circuit