Your pressure washer is equipped with a device called an "unloader valve". This valve allows the water to route into a by-pass loop when the trigger is not pulled. If you can locate a parts breakdown for your model (like in the owner's manual - hopefully), then you can locate the unloader valve and take it apart and with careful observation determine what has gone wrong with it. Most likely you will wind up ordering a kit that will have all the o-rings and etc that are part of the unloader (the wearable pieces). Just take your time and keep all the old pieces in order. You just want to be sure you can determine where the new pieces go.
If I were you, I would first contact a dealer for price/availability. But get the part # -- then you can shop around. Often its amazing how good prices can get on ebay, amazon, etc.
Good luck, and rate me if this is helpful to you. Thanks!
Don
The spill valve was not the problem. I suspect sa cloged passage preventing the by-passed water from getting back into the intake area.
I'm not sure what is meant by "spill valve". Is that what Karcher is calling the unloader valve these days? Anyway, if something were to be clogged and preventing bypassed water from getting back into the intake area, that clog would take place inside the unloader valve (or spill valve, if that's what they are calling it). And the most likely thing that would cause a clog would be a peice of plastic or rubber that either came from the unloader valve itself, or from the poppet valves inside the manifold head of the pump. -- That said, if the washer was ever ran with no inlet filter (at least a screened water hose washer) then it would be possible for outside debris to get into the system. Other than that, the system is completely closed to the outside environment -- so, a clog has to originate with warn pieces inside the pump or unloader (spill).
Don
×
SOURCE: Motor cuts on 2-3 seconds and then off and repeats this pattern
There are several possible causes of this problem. The three simplest to check are: 1. water supply is not sufficient, 2. water inlet strainer is clogged, 3. nozzle in the spray lance is partially blocked. After those, the most likely problems are internal and will probably require professional attention.
SOURCE: motor starts, stops, starts, stops etc never
Is you nozzle plugged? That is what this sounds like.
SOURCE: motor starts and stops
Diagram here
It could be the Overpressure valve is leaking #20
It could be one of the small valves is not sealing #14 and #15
The soap valve could be not sealing #7
I have also seen micro cracks in the cylinder head #8
Good Luck
SOURCE: troy bilt pressure washer will not build or reach high pressure
check the non-return valves in the pump block. if these are damaged or dirty you pressure will be greatly reduced. they are located behind the 3 lage brass hexagonal caps.
I hope this helps
SOURCE: gas motor run good but no pressure coming to the
on most there is a soap hose small tube make sure its not sucking any air into the pump which will make the pump not have pressure.then if thats not it the packing in the head on the pump is in need of replacement .reason for this would be the unloader went bad causing no relief for the pressure when not being used the packings usally cost more than the pump
568 views
Usually answered in minutes!
The city where washer resides has very hard water with a lot of minerals in it. When the pressure has set for long periods of time a calcium like substance will build up in different parts of the pump and stop the valves from working properly and even cloging passage ways. So far I haven't found any instructions for dismantling the pump and reassembling it. How much oil does it need and what kind of oil. Any help would be appreciated.
http://demandware.edgesuite.net/aaea_prd...
This is all I can find. Apparently, Karcher doesn't want end-users working on pumps (they don't seem to make a tear-down manual). There is one thing, short of tear-down that just might work. If you run white vinegar through the pump, by putting it into the soap reservoir or any way you can, it may soften up and break up the deposits causing the problem. If vinegar isn't stout enough, then an acidic toilet bowl cleaner (lime-a-way) may do it.
Other than that, you may have to do the best you can at determining where things come apart. Just know -- everywhere that two pieces are joined, it is only pipe thread - standard rules. Counter clockwise loosens / Clockwise tightens (Lefty-loosey, Righty-tighty).
No matter what Karcher or anyone else wants to call it, there is a mechanism to send the water into a bypass loop when the trigger is not pulled. This mechanism lives on the side of the pump where the pressure hose hooks up (it has no other choice - for the function it performs, this is where it has to be).
On commercial equipment, the Unloader is always a completely seperate part - so it can be easily worked on or replaced. On home-owner equipment, the unloader's body is molded into the manifold head of the water pump. Therefore, you may have to remove this head from the crank-case, just to access some parts of the unloader for cleaning etc. There are only 4 bolts holding the head on. Once these bolts are removed, the head will pull off the rest of the pump, leaving the pistons exposed.
And if all seems lost - you can always install a new pump for about 150.00. They come ready to go. Just put it on the motor and start washing.
Don
×