Question about Coleman Power Generators
Ran fine for 5 minutes the no output any suggestion
SOURCE: Coleman Powermate 6250
This a fairly common problem & easy fix with the Powermates, and other Gensets in the same class - made in you know where - China.
I seriously doubt if the Ignition Coil had anything to do with the failure of the KILL switch, as by how it's wired in the Genset circuit unless maybe you failed to fully set it to the ON position, and then in that case you may have had some "arc over" internally at that switch contact point to Gnd - prematurely causing a bit of engine surging - as that like which happens just before an engine runs out of gas.
If your Genset has a 3-wire connector harness coming off that ON/OFF switch then most likely there are only 3 wires connected to the back of that switch. One single wire (most likely GRN in color) goes to an/the Engine Block GROUND bolt somewhere - easy to follow.
The other 2 wires will be the same color (every Genset is a bit different so my schematic only says they are #18 with no color stated - possibly WHT though ??), and one of those 2 wires goes to the #1 pin of that 3-wire harness connector, which in turn is WHT in color on the other side of that 3-wire harness connector pin #1, and goes back to the Control Board inside the Front Panel Box. The other #18 switch wire goes to the Ignition Coil Primary side. Lets hope it's just a bad switch and not a bad Control Board.
Most likely the switch contacts inside just burned out from heat breakdown, as when you go to shut off the Genset - by turning it to OFF - the switch has to take the Ignition Coil Primary voltage/current and basically SHORTS it to Ground thus collapsing the Ignition Coil by robbing the Primary excitation voltage. It's bound to fail if it's a "cheap switch design" to begin with. AND - we all know about cheap Made in China stuff now don't we?
Just so you know - you are not the only one in this same Genset boat - as there are tons of people out there with far worse Powermate problems then just a simple switch problem like you have there. Count your blessings!
You are right about Powermate being out of business though, but not all hope is lost there either when you read everything farther below - as to factory service and parts for your Genset.
I know it's a little long, but the info farther below may be of future help to you later down the road - so copy and print it out for later reference just in case you have other Powermate Genset issues or this site goes down as well....hahahaha.....just kidding.
If you choose to contact the PRAMAC people about getting a new switch, and repairing the Genset yourself here are a couple options for you. If their factory replacement part is outrageously high in price - then you have another option.
If you are handy with a good soldering iron and some good 60/40 Kester solder and acid flux all you have to get is a good ON-OFF single-pole single-throw (only 2 wire connection points for the wires) toggle switch rated at 120 VAC or 12-24 VDC, and at least 10-15 amps rated, and just do it yourself. $5 part worst case!!
DO NOT use a Momentary switch type - as then someone could start the Genset inadvertently - esp if you have smaller kids around!!
Just make sure you get a good solder connection on the wires and the switch tabs, and make sure you tin both the wires and the switch tabs first to get good results. If the switch doesn't fit the old hole perfectly you may have to do a bit of modification work there.
Sorry - I can't help you out there. Make sure you mark the switch as to ON & OFF - unless you find one with a metal ON-OFF backplate like some come with - as there is no right or wrong way here. It's either one way or the other depending on how you mount the switch to personal preference. Right - Left or Up - Down.
Test the switch first before final mounting by firing the Gennie in whichever is the ON position so you know which is which, and make sure it kills the Gennie when you flip the switch in the opposite direction. That's is all there is to it. You're done!!
Hopefully like I said before the Ignition Coil is OK and so to is the Control Board otherwise I know I'll be hearing back from you soon.
Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.
Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.
Posted on Sep 09, 2008
The most common problem is the capacitors blowing. This is the round (usually white in colour) barrell shaped device usually found in the end cap of the alternator. It will have two wires attatched to two of four pins. I would advise that you check the voltage at the end of the alternator first to eliminate a wiring problem. The capacitor can only be tested with the correct equipment but changing it should solve your problem- 75% sure.
Posted on Sep 18, 2008
the gensets on coleman generators are definately nothing to brag about but i would start by checking the windings and make sure the brushes have a clean armature to ride on
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
SOURCE: No Power Output
Okay, this is going to sound kind of hard but you can do it...you need to flash the field and try to get some 'excitation' back to the windings. It's a bit of a deal but here's how:
With gen not running, plug the battery charge plug in to the charger output and you need to reverse the leads at the battery. Hook the BLACK to the positive post. Then, just touch the red to the negative terminal for a second or two. That's it!
Then...start gen and check output. If it just needed a flash, that will do it, I'm serious!
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
Field Flashing of Portable Generators
This tip comes from the Briggs & Stratton Customer Education
Department. As an alternative to flashing a rotor winding with a
battery applied to the brushes, an electric drill may be used. Follow
these steps to flash the generator:
The reason this works is because the electric motor in the drill will act as a small generator when spun backwards. The magnets in the drill's motor induce a voltage into the motor windings, which is fed back through the trigger, cord and into the generators receptacle. From there it goes into the power winding of the stator. The voltage going through the power winding creates a magnetic field, which is intensified due to the iron core of the stator laminations. The rotor intersects this magnetic field as it is spun past the power winding, thus inducing a voltage in the rotor winding. Once current flow is present in the rotor winding the rotor has been flashed.
If flashing the field does not make the generator work, you may have additional problems, besides a lack of magnetism in the rotor. Further testing will be needed. Hopefully, this will give a simple way to field flash your generator if needed - Bruce Perrault
Posted on Apr 28, 2010
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