Service manual with wiring diagram

Here is the terminal block for a freestanding range, Page 8 onwards.
https://www.kitchenaid.com/content/dam/global/documents/201808/installation-instructions-w10694026-reva.pdf

https://www.google.com/search?q=kitchenaid+kebc208kbl0+wiring+diagram+pdf

I also checked for a Service Manual, but KitchenAid don't release them.

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if wiring ok possible weak ignitor

I recently helped a friend fix the oven in his secound home, turned out the timer was shot. But, in order to find this out, we had to pull the oven from the wall, and there was a wiring diagram in an envelope on the back of the oven. That is all that it took to figure out the problem.

When cleaning the oven you got to be very careful because there's a little piece of copper in the back it looks like a little copper wire with a bare copper wire on it that is usually a thermostat it's on the back wall of the appliance inside the oven now you have a heating element on top and bottom you said that one of them stopped workin now you have a heating element on top and bottom you said that one of them stop working when you were cleaning the oven could you may have hit it moved it enough to disconnect it at the connection that comes out of the back of the oven to the inside of the oven to the element check and see if the two wires coming out of the back of the inside to the element are disconnected usually it's a Phillips head screwdriver now if you broke one of those wires needs to be reattached before you do any kind of work on that element or anything you should always unplug your oven from the wall the electrical outlet unplug it to be safe now if your thermostat which is that wir thermostat which is that wire copper wire looking thing coming out and see me on the back wall of the inside of the oven it's on a clip if you moved or bent that in any way that could also cause you thermostat which is that wire copper wire looking thing coming out and ceiling on the back wall of the inside of the oven it's on a clip if you moved or bent that in any way that could also cause your temperature to be off you really don't want to have to touch that if you don't have to I hope that helped you be safe and good luck

Typically error code F1 could indicate a variety of issues. The wall oven could possibly have a runaway temp (higher than normal temps), shorted keypad, faulty EOC (Electronic Oven Control) or, display wire harness missing/not connected. Usually, this code means to replace the EOC. You may be able to reset the wall oven by disconnecting the power to the unit for up ten minutes. Usually this will clear most false error codes. You can disconnect power by either unplugging the unit or flipping the circuit breaker off and back on. If resetting the unit proves to be ineffective, I would recommend contacting a professional to move forward accurately

Most of the time, whn this problem occurs on ovens, it is mainly caused by the ovens thermostat. Run a test on the oven thermostat and replace it if it is faulty.
An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.
Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures, transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this was helpful. Thanks for using fixya.

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.
Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!

1. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable back splash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the back splash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
2. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
3. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
4. To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
5. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
6. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedure, transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.

Hope this was helpful.Thanks for using fixya.

My dear friend, i suspect the oven thermostat to be responsible for this. It is a switch that opens when the temperature of a oven is set. Therefore it is bad and cannot work according to the temperature it is set to. The thermostat is located at the control panel where a liquid filled temperature sensor bulb which senses and maintains the temperature of the oven by turning it on and off at every cycle.
First You have to test the thermostat before replacing it. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution! Since i do not know the exact maytag oven type, here is the general process for all types of oven.

1. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable back splash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the back splash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
2. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
3. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
4. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.

To replace the thermostat of the oven, please follow the steps below:

1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
3. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures, transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.

Hope this helped you. Thank you for using fixya.

Hello there:

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.

1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!



2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
   1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
   2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components.
   3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
   4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
   5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
   
   
   
3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.

   Adjusting the thermostat:
   

4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.



5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.



6. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.



7. To remove the thermostat:
   1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
   2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.

To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.

The F10 indicates that the electronic oven control board senses a runaway temperature condition in the oven through the oven sensor circuit.
This can be caused by a faulty oven temperature sensor probe or a failed electronic control board.
Oven temperature is detected by the control board as it monitors the resistance through the oven temperature sensor circuit.
You could have a failed oven temperature sensor, a wiring harness failure, an open thermal switch or a failed electronic oven control board that would cause this problem.
The first component to check would normally be the oven temperature sensor probe.
If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can shut off the breaker for the range and remove the screws that mount this sensor to the back wall of the oven.
Carefully pull the wire harness into the oven cavity until you get to the wire harness disconnect plug.
You should have enough slack to pull it this far into the oven.
Disconnect the sensor but do not let the wire harness retract back through the back wall of the oven or it will be hard to reconnect.
Measure the resistance of the oven temperature sensor with your volt/ohm meter. At room temperature, the resistance should measure around 1100 ohms.
The resistance chart is shown in the image below.

If the resistance is above 2200 ohms at room temperature, then the sensor probe is causing the F10 error code and will need to be replaced.

You can order a new sensor probe from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the sensor is 316217002.

If the resistance is normal, then one of the other causes mentioned above is producing your F10 code.
You would need to access the electronic oven control board (Timer) in the console and check the resistance at the sensor circuit connection to the control board as the next step in troubleshooting this problem.


http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wbqdsfkrfqtswfqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/krdbrtqkgxkrbbqbrwb/1/1303472/5961857/image37801img-or.jpg


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