Question about Samsung RS2578BB Side by Side Refrigerator
We had some noise (low whining) from fridge occassionally. We called BB service guy during the tail end if the warranty. HE checked and said no problems detected. Put a surge protector $4 on the mains outlet. Now a month later and perhaps no coincidence, the temp does not cool. We tried resetting the fridge and ofcourse removing the surge protector to no avail. The solenoid or relay can be heard to click when the demand for cooling comes from the electronics, and the front panel seems to function fine, just when you expect for the compressor to come on there is nothing. Compressor model : MK183C-L2U.
Your help is greatly appreciated.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Samsung RS2555SL humming noise
the freezer has gone on to test mode for some reason press and hold down at the same time the power cool and power freeze buttons for 8 seconds this will take it off its test cycle
Posted on Mar 30, 2008
take and look at the condenser fan in the back of the unit and make sure that its working properly. If the noise is from the inside then yoiu will have to defrost the unit first.
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
SOURCE: I have a Samsung side
I seen this problem before this fridge is different from others because has tow evaporators Must likely your defrost heating element on the fridge side burn out and is letting ice to build up on till touch the fan blade and start making that sound now The problem is than the defrost heater element is build on the evaporator So the options are discharge the system and emplace the evaporator or what I do is Carefully cut of the old heating element install a generic one and a defrost thermostat and a mechanical defrost timer (8-10 hours) drill a hole to the back of the fridge and run a line from the back and the timer next to the control boar tapping the main power lines Now unless you are familiar whit electrical wiring and the defrost system of older fridges I don?t recommend to tray. Even must technicians would not dare do make modifications to a existing system. If you can?t do some thing like this what a recommend is turn the ?POWER COLD? off and see if gets any better .
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.
Posted on Aug 26, 2009
Most likely the thermostat in the fridge, especially if it read 5 degrees until you reset it. Possibly the compressor in the fridge side as this fridge has twin cooling, or the circulating fan in the back of the fridge is frozen, which is a common problem as well.
Easiest things to try is to see if the fan is frozen and check if the fridge cooling is actually working. Turn off the fridge, remove the shelves, remove the 4 screws that hold in the bottom cover and the 2 screws that hold the water tank in. Cover should then come out a few inches. Reach behind and unplug the 2 plugs and pull out the cover. If the cover doesnt come out easily it may be glued to the back of the fridge by ice. Leave for a couple of hours and gently prize it off. Check for ice around the fan and that the fan spins freely. You could try sitting the cover inside the fridge, plug it in turn it back on for a few minutes (be careful) and then open the door and quickly look / listen to see if the fan is still spinning (it stops when you open the door). Leave the fridge off for a while until the ice disappears off the coils. Turn back on for half an hour. The coils should be icy again. Anything else call Samsung. If the deal in your country is the same as mine the fridge has a 2 year warranty but in the fine print the sealed compressor unit has five years on parts only. You could get the unit replaced for labour costs only. Check your warranty card.
Posted on May 05, 2011
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