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Maytag DE 412 Door switch

The original door switch is a two prong (yellow wire attached to OPEN terminal and white wire attached to COMMON). New door switch is three prong with these terminals (COM; NC and NO)

Was told by appliance that I should use the appropriate terminals. I do not know the appropriate terminals.

Could anyone help me please?

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Attach the white to the common and the yellow to the NC, which means "normally closed". Normally, the circuit is closed which allows the dryer to run.

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

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Dryer quit won't start wife ran both washer/dryer same time put new breaker in still nothing?


Electric dryer no start does nothing

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage.

CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING.

NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position.

If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings

Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter.
Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released.

Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs

Apr 18, 2015 | Maytag Centennial 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super...

1 Answer

Dryer door switch assembly. how do I put it back together


All the terminals should be different in size with the big terminal wire being common which goes in the middle the other 2 wires make the light come on and make the motor go so if you get em backwards she will run with the door open and the light will come on with the door closed..

Aug 29, 2012 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

I have a jenn-air microwave JMC 7000adw. A few weeks ago, it sunddenly did not work anymore. I can still press any button and the clock is till right. But when I press any cook button, lick beverage, it...


Hello there and welcome to fixya
IBefore you begin to test a door interlock switch, first make sure your microwave oven is unplugged, and that your capacitor is discharged.

A door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the microwave from operating when the door is open. Microwave door switches are only an inch long. Most are black in color and all have metal prongs, called terminals, extending out from the body of the switch. Microwave door switches are normally mounted to a bracket near the door latch. Also, microwaves usually have three or four door switches.

There is a latch (sometimes referred to as a hook) attached to the inside of your microwave door that comes in contact with and activates the door switch when the door is closed. Examine this prong first. You may not be experiencing any problems with your door switch. Perhaps the latch on the inside of your microwave door is missing or damaged, leaving it unable to activate the door switch.

Some door switches have only two metal prongs extending from the body, while others have three. Those with three terminals will have a common (COM) terminal, a normally closed (N.C.) terminal, and a normally open (N.O.) terminal. Those switches with only two terminals will have either a common terminal and a normally open terminal, or a common terminal and a normally closed terminal. We are providing directions for testing a door switch with three terminals. If you are dealing with a door switch that has only two terminals, ignore the part of this test that does not apply to you.

Using caution, remove all wiring harness leads from the switch's terminals. Be aware that some door switches may have a locking clip keeping the harness from coming loose. In this case, there is a protruding lever which must be depressed while the harness is gently pulled away from the terminal.

Use your ohmmeter to test your switch for continuity. Begin by setting your ohmmeter to measure resistance at a scale of Rx1. If you are using an analog meter, touch the metal tips of the test leads together and zero your ohmmeter by adjusting the thumbwheel in the front of the meter until the needle reads '0' on the scale.
Touch one meter lead to the COM terminal and the other lead to the N.O. terminal. Do not push in on the actuator. Your meter should give a reading of infinity, meaning the circuit is open, and there is no continuity. Without moving the meter's leads, press down on the actuator until you hear a 'click'. With the 'click' of the actuator, the meter should produce a resistance reading of zero ohms. This means the circuit is closed and continuity is presen

Feb 05, 2012 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I have a four prong clothes dryer plug that needs to go in a three prong outlet - 220v. Any ideas?


It's either you convert the 3-prong outlet to 4-prong or the 4-prong cord to 3-prong. But the latter is easier and more feasible. Unplug the dryer then disconnect the 4-prong cord from the dryer. Note that it has red, black, white, and green/yellow wires but sometimes the red and black wires are both replaced by same color wire, usually gray. The red and black wires are lines L1 and L2 reversibly, meaning they can switch places, while the white and green/yellow wires are the neutral line and ground, respectively.

Get yourself a 3-prong cord and note that it has red , black, and white wires but sometimes, like the 4-pronged one, the red and black wires are both replaced by same color wire, usually gray and can also switch places. All you have to do now is connect these 3 wires in the same manner they are connected as 4-prong cord to the terminal block. The wire strapped to the dryer cabinet and connected to the green/yellow wire of the 4-prong cord wire is now left hanging. The last step is to connect this hanging strap wire to the same terminal on the terminal block (center) where the white wire (neutral) is connected and it's done.

It can be observed that converting a 4-prong cord to 3-prong cord is merely joining the neutral line (white) and the ground (green/yellow) thereby reducing the number of prongs from 4 to 3. On the other hand, converting a 3-prong cord to 4-prong cord is merely splitting the neutral line and the ground thereby increasing the number of prongs from 3 to 4. The link below might enlighten you further on this matter.

Electric Dryer Prong Conversion

Aug 20, 2011 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Can you take a dryer that has a 4 prog plug and put a 3 prong plug on it?


Yes, you can put a 3-prong plug in place of the 4-prong plug.

The 4-prong plug has red, black, white, and green/yellow wires while the 3-prong plug has red, black, and white wires. The only difference is the green/yellow (ground) wire of the 4-prong plug which is attached to the dryer cabinet. All you have to do is connect the wires of the 3-prong plug in the same way the same wire colors are connected with the 4-prong plug then connect the terminal on the cabinet, where the green/yellow (ground) wire of the 4-prong plug is formerly connected, to the white wire of the 3-prong plug.
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Feb 04, 2011 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

We had to switch cord FROM 3 prong to 4 prong due to our new house. Yesterday dryer was working fine and today at new house with new cord it is not working at all!! Can you please help me!


Good day,
First off check your power with a meter at the dryer. You should read 120 volts from the center terminal to the left terminal and 120 volts to the right terminal. If one side is not active, then the motor would not run.
As well, the common problem many times is the door switch. It will cause the same problem.
If none of the above solve your problem, then it's a case of tracing the wiring of the machine in total until you discover the issue, which easily could be a loose or disconnected wire or wiring harness.

The setup should look like this.

Old 3 wire.

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New 4 wire..

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Oct 16, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Oven turns on has lights and normal sound, but does not heat


Hello :

A faulty door switch may not allow your microwave to function. Test your microwave's door switch and if it is defective, replace it.

Here is how to test microwave switch :

Before you begin to test a door interlock switch, first make sure your microwave oven is unplugged, and that your capacitor is discharged because a microwave oven is capable of giving you a serious electrical shock, even when it is unplugged. I strongly suggest you seek the assistance of an appliance repair technician when conducting any microwave oven repair .

Now let's come to the test of the switch:


A door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the microwave from operating when the door is open. Microwave door switches are only an inch long. Most are black in color and all have metal prongs, called terminals, extending out from the body of the switch. Microwave door switches are normally mounted to a bracket near the door latch. Also, microwaves usually have three or four door switches.
There is a latch (sometimes referred to as a hook) attached to the inside of your microwave door that comes in contact with and activates the door switch when the door is closed. Examine this prong first. You may not be experiencing any problems with your door switch. Perhaps the latch on the inside of your microwave door is missing or damaged, leaving it unable to activate the door switch.
Some door switches have only two metal prongs extending from the body, while others have three. Those with three terminals will have a common (COM) terminal, a normally closed (N.C.) terminal, and a normally open (N.O.) terminal. Those switches with only two terminals will have either a common terminal and a normally open terminal, or a common terminal and a normally closed terminal. If you are dealing with a door switch that has only two terminals, ignore the part of this test that does not apply to you.
Carefully remove all wiring harness leads from the switch's terminals. Be aware that some door switches may have a locking clip keeping the harness from coming loose. In this case, there is a protruding lever which must be depressed while the harness is gently pulled away from the terminal.
Use your ohmmeter to test your switch for continuity. Begin by setting your ohmmeter to measure resistance at a scale of Rx1. If you are using an analog meter, touch the metal tips of the test leads together and zero your ohmmeter by adjusting the thumbwheel in the front of the meter until the needle reads '0' on the scale.
Touch one meter lead to the COM terminal and the other lead to the N.O. terminal. Do not push in on the actuator. Your meter should give a reading of infinity, meaning the circuit is open, and there is no continuity. Without moving the meter's leads, press down on the actuator until you hear a 'click'. With the 'click' of the actuator, the meter should produce a resistance reading of zero ohms. This means the circuit is closed and continuity is present.
Keep the meter lead that is touching the COM terminal in place, but move the other meter lead from the N.O. terminal to the N.C. terminal. You should receive a reading of infinity when you push in on the switch's actuator. When the actuator is released, you should receive a resistance reading of zero ohms.
Now, set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale and touch one meter lead to the N.O. terminal and the other meter lead to the N.C. terminal. The resistance reading between these two leads should be infinite.
Finally, take a resistance reading from both the N.C. terminal and the N.O. terminal to any metal mounting hardware that is a part of the switch assembly. You should receive a normal reading of infinity.

When you replace a door interlock switch, make sure the replacement switch is exactly the same size. It should have the same or better electrical specifications: terminal configuration and current rating. As you remove the faulty switch, take note of which wire goes where.
Rely on the markings on your old switch to ensure the correct alignment for the switch. You cannot depend on location alone because your new switch may have a different arrangement. Be sure the new switch lines up properly with the actuating mechanism. Finally, use your ohmmeter to check and make sure the new switch is performing under correct electrical specifications.


I hope that will help .

please rate !

Mar 29, 2010 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Maytag dryer MDE4000AYW change 3 prong to a 4 prong


HI thanks for your question. the red to red black to black white to white green goes to the fram of the dryer. thanks hope i was helpful. please rate my answer.

Oct 12, 2008 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Bought used dryer. Plugs don't match. Can cord be switched?


Yes, these cords can easily be switched. When you remove the three prong cord from the terminal block in the rear of the unit, you will wire the four prong in the same way. Black and red go to the outside terminals, white to the middle terminal, and the green wire goes to the cabinet or ground screw on the outside (usually, there is a greenish looking bolt around the terminal block door area for this to go). The only difference in a 3 and 4 prong configuration is the extra ground (green) wire. Good luck and let me know if you need further information.

Feb 01, 2008 | Maytag Performa PAV3200

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