On a generic level, without knowing the specifics of your equipment, I.E. amp & mixer make/model, you start at the mixers input stage. If an amplifiers output transistors die, they usually cause the amp to trip or blow a fuse, the weakest point in the system. If the amp is not doing this then the chances are, it's an line level problem, mixer related. Again, you have to list the equipment you have in order for me to be more specific.
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I classify this as a sleeper of the car audio industry. it is powerful, well built, cheap, feature laden, sounds great! very comparible to the big names such as kicker, alpine, fosgate an all the rest. i would prefer this amp over any of them any day of the week! here are the specs for it incase u didn't have them.
Max. Power Output: 800W x2Ch.= 1600W @2 Ohms
330W x 2Ch.(@2 Ohms) Less Than 0.5% THD
220W x 2Ch.(@4 Ohms) Less Than 0.3%THD
Bridge: 660W x 1 Ch.(@4 Ohms) Less Than 0.5% THD
All Measurements Done @ 14.4V DC, 1 KHz Input Signal.
Dual Fan Cooling System.
LPF (Low Pass Filter) Variable 30Hz-250Hz
HPF(High Pass Filter) Variable 50Hz-l KHz.
Slope Adjustable 12-24dB.
Variable Bass Frequency(30Hz-120Hz).
Variable 0-18db Bass Boost.
High & Low Adjustable Level Input.
Dual LED Indicated Power Status (Protect/Power).
Mosfet DC-DC Switching Power Supply.
Built-in Protection Against Short Circuit, High Temperature & Overload.
Mobile r not good for playing music in a heavy system because Mobile has not a good sound quality as iPOD and others players have, also all mobile has not a capacity to play with amplifier, and the sound output of your mobile is low there fore u r getting low sound. If your amplifier has its own volume control then u can increase it from there. It is best to use iPOD. Thanks
You do not say what type or how many subs you have connected to the Bolt B2.150.2, but it would be a strain for it to produce adequate power for even 1 sub.
The amp has both low/high pass filters as well as a variable crossover, so it's possible that do not have them set for optimum power. To power a sub, the high pass filter should be off, the low pass filter on, and the crossover set to around 80-100Hz.
Even then, I would not expect very much bass. 50 watts per channel at 4ohms or 75 watts per channel at 2ohms is barely enough to move the cone of a typical 10" sub. The MTX Thunder 5500 T5510-04 has an RMS power range of from 150-300 watts.
Hope this helps.
Low output could be the head unit, the speakers of the amp itself. Start by isolating the problem.
1) Test the sub(s) on a known good output.
2) Input a known good signal. A portable with RCA preamp outs will work OK.
After you have eliminated the other components, troubleshoot the amp itself:
1) Check the onboard fuses. The M605 has 2 each 30A fuses just to the left of the power and ground terminals.
2) If it was just installed, then my first suspicion would be a problem in wiring. If one tiny little strand of your speaker wires comes into contact with another wire or ground point, it could present just enough of a signal path to ground out most of your power, and perhaps still allow the amp to seemingly operate normally (at least for awhile). Check power and ground too.
3) Make sure your head unit RCA's are plugged into the inputs and not the outputs.
4) Check the low-pass and subsonic filter settings. If low pass is turned all the way down, the amplifier would ONLY send frequencies below 30Hz to the speakers. Subsonic turned on and the low pass all the way down would effectively result in no sound.
5) Remove the top cover to access the mode controls and display. Check the input level.
If everything checks out, the amp probably has a defective component and needs factory/service center repair.
Also called speaker level inputs, an input on an amplifier specifically designed for higher voltage and lower impedance signals, typically between 1.2 to 12 volts and 4 to 8 ohms, as found on the outputs of low powered speaker connections. Hi-level inputs are commonly used as an easy and convenient upgrade path to connect factory-installed head units to after-market amplifiers.
high level inputs are less subjected to interference and can travel further without signal loss.
Factory radios do not have dedicated outputs for amplifiers (preamp outputs). So you'll want an amplifier with speaker-level (often called high-level) inputs; these inputs enable you to tap into the factory speaker wires for a signal flow.
They're called high-level inputs because the voltage level is significantly higher than with a standard preamp output connection. These inputs convert the high voltage to one the amplifier can handle. Once connected, you'll hear clean, well-defined sound (including the lyrics to your favorite song).
Speaker-level inputs are a standard of many two- and four-channel, and mono subwoofer amplifiers.
All the power wires no the amp will be ran the same with the exception of the remote turn on wire. +12v constant will still go to the battery(properly fused with 12" of the battery!), and the ground will still go to the chassis. You can hook the remote turn on to the +12v ignition wire behind the radio, or the equivilent fuse in the fuse box. I would not recomend hooking it up to the pwr ant wire on the stock deck as it often goes off when the radio is off, or cd is playing.
As I said, most cars have no issues with any of this, but cars with "PREMIUM SOUND" systems often do not mesh well with aftermarket equipment. Fords JBL or chrystlers infinity (And bose in darn near anything!) are often cause issues. Sometimes you can easily bypass this system(Ford), sometimes you have little choice but to rip it all out and start fresh(Bose). I can walk you through the scenarios for most makes and models, but certainly do not have the time or patience to give every one. Hit me up on the forum and I will be happy to help you further....
Amplifier Class AB Number of Channels 2 RMS Power (4 ohms) 120 watts x 2 channels RMS Power (2 ohms) 200 watts x 2 channels RMS Power (1 ohm) Not Stable Bridged RMS Power 400 watts x 1 channel Total RMS Power Output 400 watts Peak Power Output 1000 watts watts x 1 channel Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 ohms THD at Rated RMS Power 0.1% Speaker Level Inputs No Preamp Outputs 1 pair Built-in Crossover High-pass (HP), Low-pass (LP), Full (AP) High-Pass Crossover Frequency 40 - 250 Hz Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 40 - 250 Hz Subsonic Filter N/A Signal-to-Noise Ratio N/A Channel Separation N/A Bass Boost 0 - 18 dB Bass/Gain Remote Yes Fan Cooled Yes Fuse Rating 20A x 2
Alpine is just a better brand in general. I have the older MRV-1507, sounds GREAT, i have had friends who has had the Explode line, but it was always a temporary system until they got something better, like the alpine or kenwood.