The control panel display is dark. It comes on briefly on power on, then goes dark. If I cycle the power, I can get it to stay on long enough to read E00 error. This supposedly refers to the crisper drawer sensor control panel, which I've repaired a number of times because guests keep pulling out and ripping the wires out because it looks like the drawer handle. So, crisper controls are functional, blue LEDs come on etc, but main control panel is dead. Internal fan also stays on when door is open now. Is supposed to shut off when you open the door. Have tried turning breaker off for 30 min, then restarting, but no luck.
SOURCE: Thermador Freedom T361T70NNP - French Doors - Condensation
I have the same problem, and thermador stated there was a recall on the hinges. They are replacing the hinges to a newer stronger hinge that will pull the refrigerator doors in tighter. It took three different service companies to find the answer to this problem because I was told Thermador does not want anyone to know about this issue they have.
SOURCE: I have a thermador bottom freezer (model
FREEZER FAN MOTOR MAY NEED REPLACED. THE EASIEST WAY IS TO TAKE OFF THE BACK PANEL IN FREEZER AND REMOVE THE FAN
MOTOR, TAKE IT TO THE NEAREST APPLIANCE PARTS STORE WITH YOUR MODEL NO.
EASY JOB.
I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
need more help go here:
http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html
MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Leo Ponder
imufo2
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SOURCE: Refrigerator has no power.
NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.
Be sure the BACK COVER is in place and hasnt been accidently removed.
If you need more help GO HERE:
http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html
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.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MORE TRICKS:
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS____
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
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Most overlooked dryer energy saving problem EVER!
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5739846-most_overlooked_dryer_energy_savingr
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REF THERMOMETERS TIPS
http://www.fixya.com/support/r10177561-second_biggest_refrigerator_energy
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Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts
prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer
turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then
redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer
motor
Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes
the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks
the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective
thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to
overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost
heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by
side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer
or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the
contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom
panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open
circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the
circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come
on.
Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill
of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the
refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the
refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws.
Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the
wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it
clockwise until you hear it click.
One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the
compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which
means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up
and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when
the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the
refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes
called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold
control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same
but will be wired differently to get the different operations.
Defrost heater:
Test the heating element for
continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to
the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should
display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of
different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be
certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating
element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to
the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on
= bad defrost heater.
Some newer refrigerators have been
using an electronic board instead of an mechanical defrost timer. The adaptive defrost control does the same job as the
defrost timer ( shuts off the refrigerator cooling items and redirects the power
to the defrost heater for the defrosting cycle, then redirects the power to the
compressor and fans to come back on when the defrost cycle is over ). This
adaptive defrost system is a bit different when testing, normally speaking if
the defrost heater and defrost thermostat ohm ok, we replace the adaptive
defrost board.
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Usually answered in minutes!
Tech once said that this symptom/error combo is caused by a communication error between the main controller and the crisper control unit.
Aside from this being a completely asinine power-up sequence (one peripheral is dead, so quit working completely...) how can one confirm the operation of the crisper controller.
Or, is there some other accessory board I've yet to locate that's failed and caused a similar problem as the issue created by a failed crisper controller.
Anyone know where to get replacement connectors and pins for the crisper control panel?
I think replacing these may help. They've been yanked out so many times they may not be making a good connection.
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