Question about Maytag MDG2706A Gas Dryer

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Flame shuts off after five seconds

The igniter turns on, then the flame goes on for about three seconds and shuts off. After around fifteen seconds, the flame goes on again and again shuts off, and so on and so on.

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  • Anonymous Dec 05, 2008

    I replaced my thermocoupler but still not working, flame won't stay lit. do you know y?

  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2009

    Flame dont start at all

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HI! I BELIEVE THE PROBLEM YOU ARE HAVING IS CAUSED BY A PART CALLED THE THERMOCOUPLER. THIS IS A SAFETY DEVICE THAT SHUTS OFF THE GAS IF THE FLAME GOES OUT, BUT IT NEEDS HEAT TO MAINTAIN THE PROPER CIRCUIT. THIS MEANS THAT THE THERMOCOUPLER IS BAD AND NOT HOLDING THE GAS VALVE OPEN AS IT SHOULD. IT IS A SMALL THIN ROD TYPE THING THAT WILL BE VERY CLOSE TO THE PILOT OR IGNITER AND IT HAS TO FUNCTION PROPERLY TO ALLOW THE GAS TO CONTINUE TO FLOW. WHAT IT IS DOING IS GETTING JUST WARM ENOUGH TO OPEN THE GAS VALVE, BUT THEN THE IGNITER STOPS AND THE BAD THERMOCOUPLER COOLS AND TURNS YOUR GAS OFF. YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE THERMOCOUPLER AND YOU SHOULD BE BACK TO WARM CLOTHES IN NO TIME. HOPE THIS HELPS YOU. ANY QUESTIONS, JUST REPLY AND I'LL HELP MORE.

ARCLIGHT1217

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

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If it uses another form of flame verification let me know. If the verification fails, the burner will cycle off for a pre programmed time period, then try again. I may do this three times and lockout also.

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No heat, ignitor goes on burner goes on sometimes and after short time goes out. ignitor goes back on, but no burner. what up


If the flame sensor is not returning a good signal, the gas valve is shut off as a safety measure. I surmise that in this situation, the igniter is programmed to fire for a time to flare off any accumulated gas from the initial attempt to fire up the burner.

Check for the following: adequate combustion air supply (make sure inlet vents are clear), proper exhaust venting, flame sensor properly positioned and not cracked or otherwise broken, burner holes are clean and not caked over with combustion deposits (if the flame is uneven and weak right where the flame sensor is located, it will be treated as a failed ignition).

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There is a flame sensor failure.

Here is the ignition sequence for a furnace. This will help you understand what is happening/not happening.

Thermostat2.gif calls for heat.

draft inducer motor (DIM) starts drawing draft through heat exchanger.

Pressure switch detects proper operation of DIM, and sends signal to board to begin ignition.
(it detects negative pressure)

Ignitor starts ignition attempt and gas valve sends gas to burners.

Upon ignition, flame sensor detects flame and sends signal to board stopping ignition sequence and continuing gas flow for heat mode operation until thermostat is satisfied.

During this sequence the blower motor is brought on, and by using a series of temperature limit switches, the system assures that the unit is operating properly.
(If the blower is not operating, or the airflow is inadequate, the heat exchanger will overheat and trip one or more temp limit switches.)

There is also a "rollout" switch that detects improper flame pattern "rolling out" into the controls compartment.

Now, to apply that to your situation.

If the flame sensor does not sense flame, it shuts down the furnace to prevent a dangerouse gas build up.

With most modern glow coil ignition systems you have one of two failures.

1) the flame sensor is bad and needs to be replaced.

2) the control board is not proccesing the signal from the flame sensor and shuts the system down. In that case the board would need to be replaced.

There is a possibility that a temperature limit or roll out switch is breaking the curcuit, but that would be quite unusual to happen consistantly at three seconds.

Unless you have the ability and tools to test the snesor and board, the next step would be to replace the sensor first, and then the board if that does not fix it.

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hold and assist coils
with model number i could get you the part numbers

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Paul,
In its' normal state the flame sensor is in the "open" position. It's the path of least resistance in the circuit right now, but as the igniter glows brighter the sensor picks that up and eventually "closes". Now where's the electricity gonna go? It then goes to (and through) the "booster" and "holding" coils on the gas valve opening up main gas to the burner assy.
After the flame fires up the igniter shuts off. Now it's the job of the thermostats to regulate the temperature of the air inside the drum. When the temp is reached (on high heat it's normally around 125 degrees F) the t'stat opens and the power to the valve is shut off. Then when the t'stat cools back down, it closes which sends power back to the heater circuit and through the "path of least resistance" again... yep, you guessed it, the igniter and the flame sensor. The whole process repeats itself 'til the end of the cycle.

I noticed in your heading you were gonna mention jumping something out... what was that all about?

SG
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