Thumping speakers - no power light is on - wired correctly
I just installed this amplifier Visonik VB212PKG
RMS condition is 4ohm - 200 W per channel, 8 ohm - 100 W per channel
-10 GA power 30A fuse
- no capacitor used
- GND made & checked - control wire connected from stereo amp control
- connected to Low input (from Rear Pre-amp out from stereo)
- (18V power verified) - regular stereo speaker connections (8 ohm) per channel - 120 Watt speakers per channel
Everything is connected correctly to me.
1. The Red "V" light is lit
2. The GREEN POWER light will not come on.
3. The RED PROTECTION light is lit constantly.
4. The speakers only thump like a heartbeat every one second - with no music sound.
What is wrong?
Re: Thumping speakers - no power light is on - wired...
The amp is going into protect mode due to something wrong in the amp or some thing in the wiring to it ooh yea if you are getting 18v power to the amp that is way to high it should not be higher then 15v if the amp is in protect mode it will not play at all.
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well, basically... the 12v (+) power wire is fused and hooked to the battery and ran to the amplifier, then run an amp turn on wire from you radio its usually blue with a white stripe (if you have an after market radio) then run the rcas from the radio to the amp and finally tap the ground (usually and cleaned bare-metal on your car close to the amp).... if you give me some more info i can help u further... what is the make/model/yr of your car, what radio do you have, amp, sub, speakers, etc....?
Well you have a high impedance path to your amp. If you have an inline fuse that should have blown. Car batteries don't have a current limiting feature HA The only explanation would be that the amount of current passing through the wire is causing a large voltage drop due to a large impedance. What gauge wire are you using? Here is an example.
18 ft of 8 gauge wire would have to be passing about 400 Amps of DC current to yield a voltage drop of that magnitude. The wire would melt and all hell would break loose. So there has to be a break in your wire somewhere.
forget hooking this on a subwoofer. this amp produces only 50 watts per channel at 4ohms or 70 watts per channel at 2 ohms RMS...
If you try bridging the sub, it will only give out maybe 100watts bridged.
if your sub is, lets say 1000watts RMS, youre just going to bust your amplifier to smoke...
Find a more decent and powerful amp. This amp is only intended for separates and lowend subs with an RMS of 80 to 150 watts
The amp outputs 500 watts RMS into 4ohms, 750 watts RMS into 2ohms and 1000 RMS into 1ohm.
The L7 can handle 750 watts RMS (375 watts per each coil). If your L7 is the 2ohm version, you should wire the voice coils in series, the positive marked coil to the negative unmarked coil. Then connect the remaining positive and negative to the amp terminals. This gives you a 4ohm load (500 watts). If your L7 is the 4ohm version, wire the voice coils in parallel, both marked and unmarked positives together, likewise both negatives and then to the amp terminals. This gives a 2ohm load (750 watts).
Paralleling the 2ohm sub will result in a 1ohm load (1000 watts) and that is too much for the L7.
MOST OF THE TIME AMPLIFIED BOXES ARE EASYER THAN REG AMPS, ALL U HAVE TO DO IS RUN UR RCAS FROM THE BACK OF UR HEAD UNIT TO THE AMP, THAN UR POWER LEAD, FROM UR BATTERY TO THE AMP, THEN UR GROUND MOSTLY ON THE FRAM OF THE CAR OR ON THE BRACKETS ON UR SEATS, THATS MAINLY ALL U NEED TO NO.
bignatedabal: You can't get something more out of a device than it's rating. In other words, if you have a 400W amp that's all it's going to produce. For example if you're looking to drive both sub spkrs @ 350W each then buy a sub amp with a rating of 700W @ 2ohms & connect your 4ohm spkrs in parallel to the amp. Each spkr will produce 350W of sound if everything is installed correctly.
1 thing to look for in amp mfg's. Look for those who rate their amps in RMS power. This is the true output rating. Many amps are rated in peak-to-peak which seems great but doesn't tell you the real story, unless you know how to do the math to determine the RMS. The better mfg's will take the time to test their amps & rate them properly. Also look for massive heatsinking (the cooling fins). I consider cooling fans to be a benefit as well.
It sounds like your saying that you have two identical amp, that both are on the same power wires and remote wires and sam grounds? Well if thats the case then you did ok as One amp sounds like its blown. First tghing is check the main fuse. If its good and the unit still dosent resond then the power supply in the amp is blown as theres a switching supply that increases the 12 volts to get power to drive the Mosfet output devices. Was it ever working?? yes then the amp needs service. Do you know how to work on solid state elctronics down to componet level?? No?? Ok contact these folks at the addy im posting for you or take the amp to your local servicer. Good Luck. AudioSupport@VisonikCarAudio.com