Question about Sony KLV-S26A10 26 in. HD-Ready LCD Television
When the set is switched on and the coax is inserted the picture is switched off automaticly, when removing the coax again and hold it in front of the connector with metal case touching the metal of the tv (without making contact with the middle pin). the TV is playing ( distored picture of course) . After half a hour i can plug in the connector entirely en the sets plays OK.
Does anyone have an idee, in solving this problem?
SOURCE: KLV S26A10 sony tv power
There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.
If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.
If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).
Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.
I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.
As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
You can order the capacitors online from places like www.digikey.com and they are usually less than a dollar each. They have a flat shipping rate (here it's $8) and the parts arrive next business day.
Posted on Jul 11, 2011
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This is a common fault as the set on ageing deteriorates in the connections. There is a high possibility that the components over a period of heating and cooling, tend to bring on a problem of dry soldering. So my advice is to check the set for some loose joints that have played on to give you these erratic shut downs or poor performance.
The best way to check for loose connections is to tap lightly when the set is powered on , If there is change while tapping then it seems that there are DRY solder joints. Remove main plug, the covers - with caution of high voltage, check for dry joints, use a good soldering iron to solder all suspected points.
Sometimes the fault occurs when the set warms up, if so you can simulate the heat using a hair dryer on the suspected areas, try with the power supply, distribution, Processor controller, driver controllers on the A/V related sections. Also the use a FREEZE-IT spray can simulate the components to cool and show up the fault.
Based on the above method you must be able to locate the area of fault and solder the sections. Sometimes large IC's- ones with more pins- tend to have drying in some pins and so cause faults related to the IC's protocol. Have a rough idea of looking into the areas to reduce the time of probing.
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