My unit was installed with a eccentic exhaust (y shaped) for the air flow outside and water is runnig down the pipe draining back and coming out around a 90 degree elbow that was not glued and flowing down the outside of that pipe and dripping on to the floor on my garage. Shouldn't this exhaust pipe be angled to the outside so the natural flow would be to the outside and should the intake of the eccentric be connected to the intake of the gas furance.
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Re: Comfort 92 Gas heater Exhaust
The slope is downwards to furnace.The slope isnt for the moisture it is a rise for the flue gas to go outside.The intake is usually connected to the furnace to use outside air for the combustion but it does not have to be.if it isnt an option to take the pipe apart to glue it all up you can seal the water leaks with silicon.anymore questions firstname.lastname@example.org
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I'm surprised the building inspector allowed the condensing furnace you described draw combustion air from the garage !! I'm not familiar with any manufacturer that recommends that as normal practice. Virtuall ALL two pipe condensing furnaces require both pvc pipes to be terminated OUTSIDE the structure with specific heights and distances apart. There is also a limit to the length of both the flu and the combustion air piping and each 90 degree pvc elbow adds the resistance equivalant of roughly 10' of straight pipe. If re-routing is required, you have to bear in mind the direction of 'fall' in the piping usually goes back towards the furnace and remember two 45's may give you a greater variance of change in the piping and still be equal to the equivalant of one 90.
Personally, I would never suggest terminating the fresh air (combustion air) intake between floors of a structure.
This should be a overheating issue , check for clogged blocked exhaust vent pipe , and make sure there is enough water flow .
A boiler tech may be needed as boilers can be dangerous if not serviced properly .
This lever is for the air vent control. Open it to allow fresh air to enter the conditioned space and close to make sure that the air outside will not mix with the inside air. Opening it also allows to exhaust cold air from the room.
The tray that holds the condensed water from the evaporator
may be clogged, it may be clogged before the cleanout hole,
where the tray joins the pvc, if this is the case you may have to
power down your ac unit, there is a panel on your heater unit
that you will have to access to expose the evaporator coils and
you will see the tray where the condensation builds up and flows
thru a pvc pipe to go outside. also make sure that the pipe going
outside is at a slope so that the condensation can flow and not
clog the pipe. make sure that water can flow from the tray thru
the cleanout hole. once you correct the problem. you need to reseal all the seams with duct tape or metalic tape, you can purchase at most hardware stores, to make sure their are no ac
cool air leaks other than thru your ac vents. good luck!
It could be that the vent pipe is not drawing properly. It may be clogged with a nest of some sort. Also, look at the burner in side the water heater,. Is it completely lighting or just partially. It may need cleaning. Especially, if it appears to be rusted. That would cause incomplete combustion.
To check the "draw" of the vent pipe.Turn a hot water faucet ON and let it run, so that the water heater will fire up. Then take a stick match, light it and then blow it out. Quickly, before the smoke from the match disappears, place it next to the top of the heater where the vent pipe is connected. If it's functioning properly, it should quickly draw the smoke up the exhaust vent pipe. If it doesn't than the exhaust pipe may be partially clogged.
If the water heater is 10 or more years old, I highly recommend replacing it for a new one. The new models are more energy efficient. Plus, they're not overly expensive (approximately $300 depending on the capacity). Check with Lowe's and Home Depot.
most furnaces require 4 inch vent pipe to be installed ... you can use pvc as long as it is rated for the temperature... there should be an obvious hole in the furnace where the enducer draft motor pushes the exhaust... if this is a upflow unit in the closet you will need to connect to the bell housing of the exhaust and start running your pipe up and out side .you will need double wall pipe rated for heat and or rated pvc if installing pvc... once outside make sure if on rood you have a roof jack for pipe to go through and a collar around pipe to keep water from running down and then a cap on pipe ....if it is a horizontal unit done the same way except your already in attic and don't have a as far to go it can run vertical and horizontal try to minimize your 90 degree turns and is best to keep it angled to prevent moisture from buiding up in pipe...
It could be that it is not charged correctly. Check the insulated copper
line outside if it is sweating and the condensor is discharging hot air, then the ac is doing all that it can. Check the evaporator inside to see
if the drain has condensate coming out of it.
Getting the heat out of the attic is a good idea, but you must have enough make-up air in the attic for the fan. If you do not have enough
make up air, it will start to draw air from inside the house. One way to check this is if you have a gas water heater and or furnace. If you put
a flame by the exhaust pipe in the basement and it blows it out, then you now have a backdraft problem.
Run the AC withoutthe fan, my real guess is the unit is not properly
charged or you do not have a big enough AC unit.
Time for a good cleaning. Make sure the heat exchanger is in good shape and is getting good heat flow over it to the exhaust. The odor may be an indication of a restriction in the heat exchanger, the flames are hitting something, improper air or gas adjustment or a blower not coming up to correct speed. You can access the heating unit from a side panel. Look for the exhaust port and start with that panel. Wasps nests are predominant in these things.