Our Samsung fridge is not the exact same model as this , its a (RS2544SL) but exactly the same thing happened last nite .I left the door ajar and everything melted now the freezer does not work.Ive tried to make it work and have called Samsung(thats another story)This is not the first time this has happened with this fridge , the freezer stopped working in the first 2 months of ownership and before a service guy could come around (2 days ) it started working again. This time no luck so far ...the fridge is now 2 years old and not covered by full warranty! Any ideas?
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Re: freezer stopped working
Solomonau, it's hard to tell without being there exactly what is going on. I do know however,that in April of 2005 Samsung came out with a bullitin regarding the cap tube. It states that it has been inserted into the dryer incorrectly and can cause no cool situations. This is part of the sealed system which should be covered for 5 years. What you are describing sounds like a partial restriction, which could be taking place in that dryer and cap tube. If you were to post your model number, I would be able to tell if yours was included in this bullitin. You can then contact Samsung and inquire about this service bullitin, Catriver..post back.
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In Windstar models the problem can be caused by the side sliding door contacts, but either of the two other switches in the right and left doors can also cause the light to blink on at times or just stay lighted. The issue is most noticed when the van is turned hard right or left when driving or on a rough road. A Ford dealer can run a test with a special scanner and ID exactly which switch is at fault.
Mine does the same thing when the kids leave a pizza box and the door does not close. It hibernates, just give it 20 min and turn in back on. Don't over hit the power button, it just takes time. This has happened a few times over the years.
Thanks so much for the advice. I just gently pried the door sensor switch on my Samsung RB1855SL out with a butter knife and then pulled out the electrical connection and it fired up right away. It looks like some orange juice seeped in and corroded it. What a relief to have the fridge working again, not to mention to not have to listen to the beeping.
you may just need to adjust your door jams they may not be closing properly, the other thing you can try is opening one door at a time and putting your finger on the switch usually in the lower l/h corner of b piller and see if the light goes off if not this may be the problem and replace the switch
This is almost a word for word common problem. On frost free fridge freezers of this type all cooling is generated through the freezer side and is merely forced into the fridge side through airflow. Therefore if you have a problem with the fridge you have a problem with the freezer section. The most likely cause is that the coil is frozen up. We would always suggest defrosting unit overnight in case it was simply a door left ajar being the cause of the fault. If the unit then pulls the fridge temp down and it was not the door ajar then you probably have a defrost problem (heater or defrost thermostat, or defrost timer). If it fails to pull the fridge temp down on restarting then it could be the fan or part of the defrost circuit or even possible the cooling circuit. The normal outcome after defrosting is that the temp will drop in the fridge due to air circulation improved, which will probably remain cool for 2-3 weeks until the coil becomes frozen again. On either result I would contact an engineer on the 2nd failure occurrs so that the engineer can establish the exact cause. Hope this helps.
Try to unplug the unit from the wall and let it sit for a few minutes then plug back in. May reset the door alarm lock out. Also, moisture in the air can be drawn in and freeze up the whole thing. That means turning it off with doors open for about 36 hours...
Moisture is a killer in a freezer, freezes and blocks up every air circulation vent, etc.