Question about Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side Refrigerator

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Defrost heater can I disconnect the defrost heater until my new one arrives

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  • charlie pen Nov 01, 2008

    I should have asked if I could disconnect the defrost heater and still use the fridge till the new one arrives

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YES YOU CAN IF THE FRIG. IS UNPLUGED WAITING FOR THE NEW HEATER,I HOPE YOU CHECKED THE DEFROST SENSER CLIPPED ON TO THE EVAPERATOR COILS,AND THE DEFROST TIMER TO,LET ME KNOW HOW SHE TURNS OUT-MIKE

Posted on Nov 01, 2008

  • MIKE major Nov 01, 2008

    YOU CAN BUT THE EVAPERATOR COILS WILL FROST OVER IN ABOUT 2DAYS AND START FORMING ICE ON THE COILS,YOU CAN LET IT RUN ABOUT 12 HOURS TNEN USE A HAIR DRYER TO MELT THE FROST TO KEEP IT GOING(EVERY 12 HOURS)IT'S UP TO YOU-MIKE

  • MIKE major Nov 02, 2008

    the helpfull rating you give me screwed up my expert rating can you please chance it to a fixya as i have give you a fixya answer?thanks-mike

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It could be that the defrost heater came on the time you were watching bugt may have a bad connection or a defective defrost element. You need to test the heater for continuity to assure that the element is not broken. the defrost timer and defrost thermostat being new eliminates that as being the problem so I think your element or the connection is the most next likely cause, Let me know I don't mind helping, Thanks Sea Breeze

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GE Etrna series model # ESL22XGREBS freezes up and quits cooling the fridge side . WE defrost with blow dryer and it works fine till it freezes up again


Defrost heater needs to be replaced. Ours did same exact thing and we also used a blow dryer to get it working again until new part arrived. Replaced that part and problem solved. Cheap and easy fix.

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1 Answer

Frigidaire will not defrost


Hello,

When a refrigerator will not defrost their are 3 components of the defrost system that could fail and won't allow it to defrost.

DEFROST HEATER ...remove back wall of freezer and you will see a black heater at the bottom of the coil thats frosted up,it looks similar to the bake element in your oven,or in some cases it is going to be a spiraled wires inside of a glass tube. To check it,use a multimeter set to the lowest ohms of resistiance setting and follow and find the wires at the top of that frosted coil,unplug/disconnect those wires and check for continuty with around 5-20 ohms of resistiance. If it has that amount of ohms the heater is good. If your meter display does not change or displays OL the defrost heater is broke and needs to be replaced

DEFROST TERMINATION THERMOSTAT... it's round and has 2 wires and clips to the top of that frosted up coil. IT MUST BE CHECKED WHEN COLD SO BEST TO DO WHEN FROST IS STILL BUILT UP. To check it disconnect the wires on it and check for ZERO ohms of resistiance. As with the heater if the meter display OL or doesnt change,it is the problem

DEFROST TIMER.... it will be located in the control panel in the ref.section and not in the freezer,it has a center hub that can be turned using a straight blade screwdriver,turn it slowly until ya hear the compressor and fan in the freezer shutoff and then within 5 minutes IF the defrost timer is defective the defrost heater will be on,if when turning it and ya wait 5 minutes and the heater does not come on either the defrost heater or thermostat will be the problem and they can be checked as stated above.

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1 Answer

Freezer coil iced up how do put through manaul defrost srs536np


It is probably the timer for defrost that has gone out... some models allow for manual operation of the timer with a large, flat-blade screwdriver it is in the front-center "ceiling" of the refrigerator compartment. The hole is the access for manual turning of the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly until it clicks. Locate the drain tube & if the problem is the timer, water will start draining from the tube within a few minutes. If it is very iced up, it may take 45 minutes to defrost. Then turn the timer a half-turn or so to restart fridge. If you choose to replace the timer yourself, you'll need to manually defrost every day or two, depending on how many times & how long door is open, until new timer arrives.

Oct 03, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a 4-yr old Electrolux 22.6 counter-depth fridge. It has worked fine until now. Now, the freezer will only cool down to 35 deg F and the refrigerator is only 52 deg F with the freezer setpoint at 0...


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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

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1 Answer

The freezer is 19deg and the lower food compartment only gets to 60deg


Model number is always valuable in order to be able to give you more accurate information.

Check rear wall of freezer by feel for frost. Heavy, even frost indicates likely problem in the defrost system. Defrost heater (most likely and in freezer behind rear wall), defrost thermostat (in freezer-must be checked at freezer temperature) or one of Defrost timer or Defrost control (Circuit board) generally located in Refrigerator compartment but may be inside rear of outer case. Defrost heater and defrost thermosts can be checked with an ohmmeter. Disconnect power to refrigerator, remove rear wall and disconnect at least one side of any component you are testing. If the heater and defrost thermostat test good for continuity then replace the defrost control.

Without repair refrigerator will work perfectly for about 7-10 days after being COMPLETELY defrosted, including behind freezer panel, until thick frost builds up again cutting off air flow to both compartments

Oct 03, 2009 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

501f freezer ices up the evaporator. After defrosting it works well until it ices up again.


Could be a couple of things. First measure the resistance of the defrost heater that is mounted on the evaporator coil in freezer compartment. Make sure to disconnect the power from freezer first. The disconnect the defrost heater and measure with ohm meter. It should measure in the 20 ohm range. If it measures as "open" replace the coil.

Next suspect is the defrost timer mounted in the front of the compressor compartment. If the heater coil is OK, I'd just replace the timer. It is tough to test.

Finally, there is a defrost termination sensor mounted on the top of the defrost heater that shuts off the defrost heater when it reaches a high temperature. If the coil tests OK, and you are going to replace the timer, you may want to replace the sensor too. It is awkward to test, the temperature of the sensor needs to be be below room temperature to close. The cost of the sensor is low enough that you may not want to replace the timer, then test the system, and then have to go back in to replace the sensor later.

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