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Indesit WDG 1195 GB washer/dryer. doesn't spin

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priyabrat
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SOURCE: Get dryer to work, no instruction manual for Indesit Washer WDG 1195 W

What to check when your dryer won't start-


The wall outlet 240 volts:
The first thing to check when your Whirlpool dryer is not starting is the wall outlet to make sure that the dryer is getting the proper voltages. On an electric dryer there should be 240 and 120 volts present at the terminal block.

A blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker are one of the major causes why the dryer won't start. To check the voltage on an electric dryer you will need to use a multimeter.

The wall outlet 120 volts:
A gas dryer connects to a 120 volts wall outlet, and it is very easy to check the outlet. Disconnect the dryer and connect a hair blower or any other small appliance on the outlet.

If they work, then the problem must be on the dryer. If the don't work, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. If the problem is bigger than that, have a license electrician check the house wiring. A bad wall outlet could be the reason why your Whirlpool dryer is not starting.

The thermal fuse:
The thermal fuse is use on an electric dryer as a safety devise to open the motor circuit if the operating thermostat fails to open at the preset temperature or if the motor draws too much amperage.

A blown thermal fuse could be the reason why your Whirlpool dryer is not starting. It is located behind the back panel on the dryer.

The door switch:
The door switch is another safety device use on the dryer. It is connected on the neutral line of the motor circuit. A door that is not closing properly or a bad door switch could be the reason why your Whirlpool dryer is not starting.

The push to start switch:
The push to start switch is use to start the motor. There are two types of switches. The older type switch is a solenoid operated door switch and the other one is a simple push to start switch.

A bad solenoid operated or regular push to start switch could be the cause why your Whirlpool dryer is not starting.

The timer:
The timer is the distribution center or the brain of the dryer. Inside of the timer is that the electricity gets routed to the different electrical parts in the dryer.

The timer has contact points, and the contact points wear or burn out depending on the amount of use. Contacts burnt inside of the timer, could prevent the dryer motor from starting..

The motor:
Also, the motor could be burnt bad. A motor that smells like rubber burning, makes growling noises, runs for a wile, the won't start until is cool down or a motor that runs fine, but the centrifugal switch is not making the right connections is a bad motor and must be replace.

So...as you could see, there are many parts that could be the reason why your Whirlpool dryer is not starting.

Posted on Feb 16, 2008

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Kenmore Elite HE4T Washing Machine Diagnostic Test Didn't complete and clothes aren't spun as dry as in the past I have a Kenmore Elite HE4T washing machine and I noticed that recently it isn't getting all of the clothes completely dry from the final spin cycle. Thus, the dryer has to run through two cycles to get the clothes dry. I did a bunch of research and made sure there weren't any kinks or blockages in the drain lines; and opened up the bottom of the washer and cleaned out the drain cleanout. I found a few pennies, but everything seemed to be working ok. I ran a load and had the bottom open so that I could make sure the motor, drain and belt were all working properly. The drain does get the water out of the washer, so the clothes aren't sitting in water, they just don't seem to be spun as fast or as long as they used to. I always put it on the "extra high" spin setting no matter which type of load I run. So, I found a way to run the diagnostic test on the washer and it went through C0-C5 (the agitation step) and all worked great, until it wouldn't come out of C5 after at least 10 minutes and go thru C6-C8. I had to cancel the diagnostic test and hit the "drain and spin" button to get all of the water back out of the washer. BTW, the "drain and spin" seems to get the clothes a bit drier than when I have it run through the "normal" cycle with the "extra high" spin. If anyone has any other thoughts, I would really appreciate it. This unit is in a small space with the dryer attached so to take it out and do repairs is a pretty big hassle. It has had a new control board and two new fill valves in the 10+ years that I have owned it. Questions I have: 1.should I remove the entire drain pump to make sure there isn't anything lodged in it? 2. could it be the belt slipping slightly and keeping the spin from reaching its 1200 RPMs? 3. Anything else I may be missing???

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