Question about Westinghouse Refrigerators
Could be that, or it could be the temperature sensor on the evaporator - if that goes, then as soon as the freezer starts a defrost cycle, it will think it's got the evaporator hot enough and will start cooling again.
Suggest you let the freezer thaw out then, with a voltmeter connected across the terminals on the board which connect to the sensor, turn the freezer on and see if the sensor reacts sensibly to the evaporator cooling down. It's usually done with a thermistor, but just for the moment, I can't remember whether it's usually a PTC or an NTC.
That way, if it is the sensor, you'll be spared the expense of replacing a serviceable pcb.
Posted on Apr 13, 2008
your problem is still poping up even though it was resolve already. i guessed you should rate a technician in this form as to delete the work from the list of jobs to do.. i am on the way to solve it but you had it solve with a real technician.
can you just rate me?...thanxs...
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
The unit was built bt LG. It is a computer controled unit and the timer is built into the main control board on back of the unit. However, the most likely cause of the broblem is the defrost terminator located on the evap on the upper right hand corner. Also, try unpugging the unit it will reset the computer board. You will also have to defrost the unit.
Posted on Aug 30, 2008
you may try hard restart by shuting the fridge off and unplugging it from the wall . plug in back in and after 5 min turn it back on . close both doors and wait one hour . check the temp. if the unit still will not respond calll the local woranty amana repairman only. hope this helps you
Posted on Oct 20, 2008
The heating element, located behind the back plate of the freezer, is probably not working. A failed heating element leads to a build up of ice around the evaporator coils in the rear of the freezer. If the back plate of the freezer is removed (ONLY DO THIS WITH THE APPLIANCE UNPLUGGED FROM THE POWER SUPPLY) and there is a large build up of ice around the evaporator coils then it's a fairly good indication that the heating element is not working. The heating element comes on periodically to defrost/de-ice the evaporator coils. Heating element is often activated by a small timer switch which turns the heater on for a set time every 24 hrs or so. Heating element may be open circuit or timer switch may not be operating. Most likely to be open circuit heating element.
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
Your Defrost drain is cloged. you will need to remove the back wall to get to the drain and then defrost it with hot water. have lots of towls ready. and make sure the hot water is poured in the pan under the evpaerator. you might also look at the back of the machine to see if there is a drain tube, some of those top mount have a tube on the back.
once the water starts flowing your good.
Posted on Jan 08, 2010
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My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and are not torn or ripped. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the f
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some are behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw likeknob in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater (s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can continuity test the defrost heater for continuity or test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater (s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, jumper the wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater (s) and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
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