Recently the amplifier began smoking, white smoke but the amp did not cut off, when inspected the capacitors shown below burst. I myself replaced the capacitors all, and it happened again. Want to know what may have caused this and also what other components to check for damage. All i have is a multimeter.
Something same happened to me... I have a PowerAcoustik A3000DB Brand New... and it brokes jejejeje white smoke in the amplifier...jejeje it blow up and burn 12 pieces : 6 voltage regulator seria IRFZ46N (this is easy to find but the next is hard) and 6 audio output serial FB31N200...you want to repair that amp search this pieces
@ dsb100 Driver Board The following transistors goes as follows... starting from the 8Pin (JRC4580D)(dip) Ic .. transistors facing away from the ic are; 2/ MPSA42 0r MPSA05,MPSA06 next 2/ MPSA56 or 2N3906 or NTE159 next 2/ MPSA42 0r MPSA05,MPSA06 next 2/MPSA56 or 2N3906 or NTE159 followed by one (1) C1027
at the end of the driver Board where you see (big transistors) starting from the back are 1/ A1023 0r A1013 (BIG) 1/C1027 (BIG) 1/C1027 (BIG) followed by 3/ MPSA42 in a straight line....
I recommend Changing the (JRC 4580D) 8 Pin IC with the very same one (ORIGINAL) (NO SUBSTITUTES)...
After that is done check the output mosfets (FB31N20D) to see if any of them are shorting,,, check the resistor at every first pin in parallel with a diode (1N4148)....
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Re: Power Acoustic A3000DB mono amp problems
Broken legs on the rectifiers or an intermittently shorted common mode inductor would be the likely suspects. The common-mode inductor is just to the right of the capacitors in the photo. Install a single 15 amp fuse in ONE of the 4 fuse holders (other 3 fuse holders empty) and power up the amp. Twist the inductor to see if the amp draws excessive current (which would blow the fuse) or to see if it sparks.
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What does the fuse on the back say? AWG 4 has around a 60 amp capacity, AWG 2 is about 95 amps. I wouldn't suspect you would need larger than 2. Remember the higher the Gauge the more Resistance per foot you have which means more of a voltage drop at higher current.
I HAVE TWO OF THESE AMPLIFIERS MYSELF. IT IS NO DOUBT AN INTERNAL PROBLEM BECAUSE THROUGH THE PROCESS OF ELIMINATION, YOU HAVE DONE ALL THAT YOU CAN DO AND IT POINTS TO THE AMPLIFIER ITSELF. AS FOR THE CAUSE FOR ITS FAILURE, THERE ARE MANY, BUT IT IS MORE THAN LIKELY IN THE INPUT CIRCUITS AS FAULTS IN THE POWER SUPPLY OR OUTPUT SECTION WOULD MORE THAN LIKELY SHOW UP TRIPPING THE PROTECTION CIRCUITRY. IT WILL SIMPLY HAVE TO BE SERVICED. I AM LISTED IN THE REPAIR DIRECTORY OF THIS SITE UNDER THE ZIP-CODE 70360. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE...V
You are going to want to make sure all your power wires and grounds are 4 gauge as well as the wire leads to and from the capacitor-4 gauge also. make sure you have a very good ground - the power wire from the battery should hit a distribution block-from the dist. block a 4 gauge should go to the capacitor another 4 gauge to the mono amp and another to the 4 channel amp -every component should have a good solid ground even if you have to bust out a grinder and a drill and some self tapping sheet metal screws and go nuts on it- see if that helps you
Check the wires for a lose connection or corrosion. You may need a capacitor.
Basically, at low power the amplifier
is not asking for a lot of power from the electrical system to power
your sub woofer. For lack of a better term and probably the best way to
explain it is. It uses up all the power in the wires leading to it at a
high volume, and has to wait for more. Kind of like when someone squeezes a garden hose
when your trying to use it. That would be the high volume, starving the
amplifier. The capacitor stores power in it to power the amp at high
volume. 2 farads would probably be bulletproof on a single amplifier
system, but 1 farad should work well enough. Or seek help from an
expert on exactly what size capacitor you should use. If you find
yourself saying: My amp cuts out.
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