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If it sounds normal, then yes leave them as they are.
But there may need to be an exception made.
The distances are set the way they are for the proper advance or delay in milliseconds of the sound arrival at the listening position. The system calibrated your speaker settings based on how each channel's frequency responses measured at the listening position. Room acoustics and channel positioning greatly affects this. The settings it made in the system can be a best case scenario compromise that MAY not be good for your surround speakers as it can be delivering signal to them that they were not designed to handle; in which case it is best to increase the crossover value of those speakers.
IF this is a vacuum tube unit, these symptoms are that of a tube that the heater is intermittent, that is it cools off due to a break and then liights again.
Open the back and observe the heaters in the tubes. DO NOT be fooled by some that have TWO heaters in them. (use a mirror if necessary) A single one that comes and goes can cause the problem and the voiration can make it come and go. This behavior in a tube is NOT somthing readily spotted in a tube checker. The delay in fading and coming back would be the delay in warm up following a heater going out and cooling.
No, this sounds like a speaker problem to me.
It sounds like the voice coils in your speaker(s) have been fried.
What happens is the part that is burnt does not funtion, but as you increase the volume/voltage the speaker "jumps" foward to a section of voice coil that is not as damaged.
Check your speakers!
Check to be sure there are no speaker wires touching ground, and that the wires are connected in phase to the head unit.
5 1/4" Doors
Left Front (+)
Left Front (-)
Right Front (+)
Right Front (-)
6" x 9" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+)
Left Rear (-)
Right Rear (+)
Right Rear (-)
The symptoms you are relaying definately sound like an internal amplifier problem. It is fading in and out for a reason - usually due to heat.
Have you had the radio bench tested (seperate from the car) to eliminate the car as being the culprit?
Since the radio was run with damaged speakers originally, the output or amplifier power supply on the amplifier may be bad.
As an alternative to repairing, I would suggest investing in a small 2 channel amplifier to power the speakers.
The radios claim 50W per channel, but in reality give 12-15W RMS power.
A dedicated amplifier with built in crossovers and gain adjustments will prolong the life of your speakers and add to the tonal qualities of your new speakers. Instead of turning up the volume on the head Unit, and sending out a distorted signal that will blow your speakers, an amplifier will give more CLEAN power to them, so it will be louder at a lower volume setting.
This will bypass the internal amplifier on the radio, and send a Low Level signal ONLY thru a set of RCA cables.
Have the speaker checked out and if it checks good you need to take the amp back to the repair center and have them test it better. Most repair centers have a 30 day warranty on the work they perform. Make sure they know what the problem is in detail, so they know how to check it properly. But my first thought is the speaker could be faulty. You can check the speaker yourself by switching them at the amplifier. If the same speaker sounds bad you know it is the speaker that is bad. If the sound is bad from the other speaker, then the amp is bad unless it is coming from the head unit. You can also switch the RCA input jacks after that and see if the problem changes speakers, if so, the RCA output of the head unit is bad, but that is less likely.