Unit was not cooling. Just plugged in in to test it and sparks came out of top. Looks like electronic board got fried, smells like it. Now nothing happens when you plug it in, no digital display. Trying to find this electronic unit (no compressor in it) on the web, went to Sylvania website, useless.
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Re: Winecooler not working
Well minico unles you have a warranty from where you bought it it might be some what expensive you have to evalute the expences is better to repair or to buy a new one but is you can give the model and serial i will try to look it up to see what i can find
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Typically if one inspects the boards in question you may find evidence of heating and damage.
Sometimes with newer solder having no lead, hot spots tend to leave cracks around the joints of parts heating and cooling and once they arc they fry components. One can usually smell a burnt component altho hard to describe the smell. I would look for burnt fuses on the power board where the power first enters the back of the tv, and some fuses are covered with a plastic sheath and looks like another type of component. A tester comes in handy...
I suggest that you look more at the board that gives the high voltage to the TV screen, as there are step up transformers (square blocks) that give a lot of trouble and the transistors surrounding those blocks, usually 4 transformers. I would test for continuity around these areas but the transformers should be pulled from the board for a more accurate test.
Inspect transistors (black with three prongs) usually has an aluminum heat - sink attached to it for cooling, anything more than 3 prongs is probably an IC or integrated circuit chip. These are more difficult to test. A diode will allow power one way but not the other so reversing the polarity tester tips will give you a voltage or nothing in reverse. Transistors are similar to a diode in that you can test it one way but it shouldn't be a reading the other to try to keep things simple.
Typically when a transistor goes it will burn a hole in the face or on top. A capacitor looks like a mini soup can and swelling on top a hole on top or liquid stain under it is an indicator that it's bad. Typically the top is swelled and the plastic coating bares most of the top of the capacitor. If one inspects other capacitors in that area you can notice the difference even though indicators are slight at times.
I would at very worse put the screen part away until you found a suitable tv model with a broken screen perhaps on kijiji. Typically it is a capacitor that has blown but may only lead to a partial solution to the problem if several parts are gone which is usually the case, a capacitor or two as well as a transformer or a transistor; and one must also inspect and test other components in that same area for success and to inspect the circuits for cracking around components especially where the hot areas are and one can usually see these hot areas due to the discoloration of the board in these areas. These hot areas are usually the problem.
One overall solution is to build a big fan into these tv's lol and put surge protector bars on all your expensive electronic components.
press power button, press menu button. do you get a menu? if so, might be loose connections or faulty ground lead connections. with power off, reseat (unplug one, plug back in, repeat on all connectors) connectors on all the boards (including speaker cables).
Then carefully, with the unit on, check all the ground cables to ensure they are all screwed in tightly.
If the television has a menu, there could be a problem with the input board itself. Might not be grounded, might be bad altogether. If it looks fried and smells fried, its probably fried.
It is probably electrical because it goes away when it cools down. First you should diagnose if it is a fuel or ignition fault. When the car is dead, see if you are getting fuel and spark to the cylinders: remove a spark plug, but leave it on the wire and rest the plug threads on a metal part on the engine, and have someone crank the engine - look for a spark. Do not hold the spark plug or you can get a shock.
If you are getting no spark, the problem is the ignition control module which is located under the distributor cap - the round plastic piece from which the spark plug wires run.
With the plug out, you can also smell the spark plug hole. There should be a fuel smell. If not, suspect the fuel pump relay.
I would check the defrost thermostat usually a button type switch with 2 wires on it mounted to the freezer coil. Size depends on type ; 1 type is about quarter size, 1 is about dime size, and electronic sensor (not had one burn out but the board could smell like your description but I believe these are not in the freezer section).
I have had these cook out and smell up the freezer section before. And if they go out guess what it wont defrost either. If your fan motor goes out it might smell and wont cool all over but the frost should be minimal.
Also a bad defrost heater could make a smelly situation it is usually a
black rod or aluminum colored and the rubber ends can burn and make a
smell. If you find its the heater, I would replace the defrost thermostat as
well. Its suppose to cut off the heater before it gets too hot.
If this helps you find your problem please rate me as high as possible if not please post back with more information as to what you did find. Thanks for using fix ya and good luck.
Check to see if your boiler tube is hot. If it is , your cooling unit is shot. Do not plug your circuit board into 110 volt power that will destroy it. To test your heating elements you need to do an ohms reading on the elements. But I can tell you from experience if your boiler tube/ this is the 3-4" diameter sheet metal tube going up the back of the refer/ is hot the cooling unit is no good. If you would like to discuss your diagnostics give me a call. Jerry firstname.lastname@example.org 734 777 6432 www.coachtech.info
Same issue here. 3 years without problems then the burning smell and finally it died. I've removed all of the screws from the back but haven't had success opening the unit. Anyone figure out a solution to fix the circuit board?
Question are you getting any display from your monitor - if you are there is hope - if not the same thing that took out the power suply has probably fried the motherboard.
The only other thing I would sugest is to flash the BIOS - either locate JP1 or remove the battery (looks like a whatch battery) and cross the terminals with a screwdriver - re-install the battery and see how it goes.
Point: No display = no motherboard.
Good news is that the RAM, Procesor and other components are probably good.