Question about Power Acoustik LT-1920/2 Car Audio Amplifier
Well a month ago I opened up my trunk to show my set-up and all of a sudden the music stopped and all i got was like this weird static popping sound. I checked all the connections and they all looked good. When i remove that go to the sub amp and place them on my mid amp i get good sound out of my other speakers but the subs still do the static popping sound. I tried disconnecting the subs to see if maybe one of the coils had gone bad and i was getting to low of an ohm load for the amp and nothing. The only way that the protect light goes off is if I remove the remote wire and even that is wierd because the amp should completly turn on but the power LED stays on. I tried different 12v sources for the remote wire and nothing. There is no smell and the amp would always run warm to the touch but never hot. I replaced the amp with an Ultra linear UL2800-d amp and that one works but it is not nearly as loud and clean sounding as the power acoustik.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Power Acoustik TS620-2 Amplifier
Check the wiring at the speakers themselves. It's possible that while you were moving the box one of the speaker wires came loose and shorted against the other terminal. A shorted speaker wire or damaged speaker will cause the amplifier to go into protect mode. If you have a digital multimeter with a resistance feature, you can test the resistance between the positive and negative terminals for each speaker.
Posted on Mar 07, 2007
SOURCE: amp getting really hot
If depends on what the amp is rated to run. If it is only rated to run 2 ohms x2ch then it can only run 4 ohms x1ch. If you run it at 1 or 2 ohms that is too low, too much current, and it will get hot and eventually blow up under hard use. Some quality amps can live that way, and it depends on the sub and what frequency you are running it at. For normal use I would not recommend it. Wire to sub at 4 ohms x1 (or 2 ohms x2ch) for that amp if that is what it is supposed to be at, I'm not sure from your description. Also enhance cooling of the amp if you can, I run fans on mine if they have a heat issue. Warm is one thing, hot is another and not good for amp.
Posted on Apr 22, 2008
use a multimeter to see if the amp has good power wire and remote turn on voltage. then check the ground and make sure its a good strong ground. check the sub to make sure its not bad. make sure it reads whatever ohm its supposed to. anything less than 4 ohms will clip the amp if bridged. if alll that is good then the only thing left is the amp. it sounds like the power supply is bad but check everything else just to make sure. good luck.
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
SOURCE: amp wont get out of protection
Most likely you'll need to do a hardware reset for the chip to reboot its internal memory. You most likely got a spike in current through the 'brain' of the circuit and locked up the interface. You A) could search the enclosure for a small soft touch button, or B)open up the contents (risk this may void warrantee) and find it on the internal circuit board, or C)check the manual for suggested method. But more realistically, you need to check your system to determine what caused the initial case.
Posted on Apr 21, 2010
SOURCE: amp is on but no power output
Are you sure that the Main power and the ground is connected and you are gettting this switch on of the amp. If so there is a shorting inthe standby/ relay switch on circuit. You will have to open the amp and check for any burnouts. since the power is on I presume that if the set is new , some one had wrongly connected the amp damaging the circuit. It has to be probed if this proves expensive and beyond the scope of this advice. If you notice any trigg transistors, relay faulty replace other wise you need expert help. Hope you find this helpful. Good day
Posted on Jul 07, 2010
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