POWERED ON MONITOR, FLASHES ON, THEN GOES BLACK, MAKES NOISE
This monitor started making a loud noise, then went black, but the green/yellow power button still works. After rebooting, the screen will pop on correctly for a second, then go black again. All the while the monitor makes a noise. When powered off, it still makes a quick computer-sounding clicking sound. Plus I cannot find the Dell "Service Tag", just a longer serial number.
Re: POWERED ON MONITOR, FLASHES ON, THEN GOES BLACK,...
This is general LCD monitor advice. I don't know your specific model. Your problem, however, is very common on many different monitors.
In 90% of cases, the problem is one or more failed electrolytic capacitors on the power supply board. They are a simple matter to replace, but require desoldering the old ones and soldering in new ones, as well as general electrical/electronic safety practices.
If what I've just said already makes sense to you, then you're probably qualified - go ahead and replace them. If I'm talking greek, then go find an electronics nerd - some goofy looking guy wielding a soldering gun should do.
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I switch on my PC, ensuring that all cables, leads
and power supplies are connected properly. The tower powers up no
problems at all. I switch the screen on, the green led lights up, the
screen is completely black. A blue box appears centrally on the screen
with the text 'power saving mode'. The green led light turns amber and
then the screen just goes black.
Please don't suggest going to control panel, as I can't get that far.
Common problem in this model is bad DC filter caps, that will be the first place to look. If you are going to DIY and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on: Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply (they should be replaced in a set), blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.
The power light is flashing green can indicate start/restart of the power supply due to shorts circuits or failing power supply due to bad caps, look for bad caps with bulging top first, see example of failed monitors due to bad caps: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see insdie so we can guide you furhter.
pseroy, If you visit YOUTUBE check out the longer video clips of LCD monitor disassembly and repair of the most common type of failure modes that ALL BRANDS have. Whenever posting to this site it would be nice if we could also get a little bit of history-- like age of unit and approx total hours of "on" time. My best guess is that the "switch-mode-power-supply" has finally bit the dirt. Popping sound was the "electrolytic filter capacitors" venting to the atmosphere because they couldn't stand the heat in the unit any longer. In any case a tech should evaluate unit or if it is >3-4 yrs old look to trade in for new. also check web for swollen capacitors in lcd monitors and "cold-cathode-fluorescent-tubes" and their power source which is called an INVERTER circuit. Here is quick and dirty lesson. Monitor SMPS makes dc voltage for inverter (electronic ballast) circuit which makes 800-1200 volts ac to light up the CCFT's. You are dealing with something similar to the new screw-in curlie-Q CFL lightbulbs only their "ballasts" are dirt cheap and are called "converters" AC to AC. Hope this info was of some help. I'm louie12fix on fixya or lmistyrel @ aol .com please rate this response at fixya.
Chances are a capacitor has blown. They normally make such lovely poping noises when they die.
What will of course now be happening is the voltage inside where that capacitor was will be unstable and it could very well completely fail in the near future.
I would reccomend you get it to a repair shop sooner rather then later for a cheap simple repair rather then an expensive monitor replacement.
Sounds like you have a bad connection from your monitor to your computer. First check and make sure the connection between them is tight. Does your computer boot up and run though? If your computer is not booting up the monitor will default back to the flashing green power light
Bad power supply. The light is green when it is not plugged into the monitor because there is no load on the power supply. When you plug it in the monitor tries to draw current, nothing the PSU can handle now, so the light blinks. The PSU can not provide the amps that the monitor needs.
Get a new power supply, you can find them on ebay. Just make sure the voltage and amps match. It is ok to buy a power supply with a higher amp rating, the monitor will only take what it needs. Also make sure the power plug that plugs into your monitor matches.
Looks like one of your backlights is bad, first indication is the red or pink tint, replacement of the lamp is fairly easy. If one lamp is bad the inverter will not work. You can get a replacement lamp from Mouser electronics for about $12