Condenser does not come on. select cool on tstat then egage contactor ht pump mode comes on then select heat at tstat push contactor in cool mode. tstat is a braeburn furnace is coleman and condenser ruud. I am pretty confident low voltage is wired correctly. W/ a response i can give more info, help please, sincerely
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Re: ruud heat pump
Did you just install this heat pump? If so it sounds like you replace a regular a/c with a heat pump, which will require more wires for the reversing valve. First check to make sure you have 24v going to the condenser. Make sure you have a heat pump t-stat. You should have a orange t-stat wire for your reversing valve. At the t-stat you will have terminals R, Y, G, O, X or C or B, W1, and W2. R is half of your 24v circuit and is a red wire, Y is for cooling mode, G is the Fan green wire, O is for the reversing valve, orange wire, X or C or B is the other half of control circuit blue wire, W1 and W2 is the heat strips in the furnace tan and black wires. These are standard color code but remember electricity does not know colors and an installer may have used different colors. If all of this is correct possibly bad contactor.
If I understand what you are saying, when your stat calls for cool the unit blows heat and when in heat mode it blows cool. Is this correct?
The problem is on a Ruud unit it does not use an "O" terminal it uses a "B" terminal (Reversing valve energized for heat) where all others use the "O" energized for cool mode.
As for the contactor not closing you need to determin if there is 24 volts between "Y" and "C" at the unit, if not then there is an issue somewhere up the line interupting the voltage, if there is then the fault lies at the unit, defrost boaard or pressure switch. call me and we can diagnose over the phone, this is what I do.
Richard (Rick) Drennan Global HVAC Distributors RUUD Field Support Representative / Instructor firstname.lastname@example.org 900 Spreckels Ave Manteca, Ca. 95336 Office (877)448-7263 Cell (209)456-0513
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indoor or outdoor? Typically this points to a welded contactor on the outdoor unit. With tstat in off position check contactor on condenser. If contactor is still pulled in and system running when the tstat is off you need a new contactor. Remember, 240 volts hurts. If you dont know what you are doing call a professional.
Very impressive!! This button you are referring to is a contactor. When your tstat calls for cooling it sends 24 volts out to the contactor therefore pulling the contactor in completing the circuit for the fan and compressor. Usually this doesn't work when a safety switch is preventing the 24 from getting to the contactor. Either it's not getting a signal from the tstat or one of your safeties are tripping (high or low pressure) or the float switch on your drain line at the air handler is wired in to only stop the condenser from working rather than the tstat. A multimeter would be extremely helpful for you to determine where the voltage is stopping. Check your drain first, I don't suggest your patented rock idea, it's not running because of a safety. Good Luck , let me know!!
If you push the contactor and it runs why replace all that stuff??? You have to figure out where your 24 volts stops on its way to the condenser contactor. wire red green and yellow together at tstat, this should bring on indoor fan and condenser. if idf runs but cu does not you have an issue either going outside or a pressure switch is tripped. if nothing runs you have no 24, either a blown fuse, tripped float or bad transformer.
MOST UNITS NOT HEAT PUMPS WIRE UP WITH 2 WIRES TO CONDENSER RED WIRE AND WHITE . WHITE GOES TO COMMON C ON FURNACE AND RED TO Y TERMINAL OF FURNACE Y ALSO GOES TO Y ON TSTAT. BOTH YELLOW WIRES MUST MEET AT Y OF FURNACE. WHITE FROM STAT TO W GREEN FROM TSTAT TO G AT FURNACE IF YOU HAVE C ON TSTAT HOOK UP BROWN WIRE OR BLUE FROM COMMON TERMINAL WHERE YOU HOOKED UP CONDENSER WHITE WIRE AT FURNACE TO TSTAT , MOST THERMOSTATS DONT NEED C RUN FROM FURNACE. THE TWO WIRES GOING TO CONDENSER IS - AND + TO ACTAVATE CONTACTOR IN OUTSIDE UNIT
The only unit I know that energizes the reversing valve in heat is Ruud or Rheem, All other makes energize in cool. When you switch from heat to cool htere is five minute delay. The y energizes the contactor on heat and cool. Make sure your tstat is ok. Rus Keep in touch.
That's going to be in your installer configuration. Check and make sure the G terminal has a wire connected to it at the tstat , and that connection it tight. In the configuration menu, make sure it is set for a heat pump, elected heat. It seems to me that the tstat doesn't know its connected to a heat pump. Should be able to locate aodel # for tstat on the back of it. And ask Mr. Google for a manual, if you don't have 1. Hope this helps!
Check your wiring between the contactor and compressor for a short to ground, or check the compressor windings for short to ground.
With the Tstat off, the contactor should be open so the only way for the compressor to be trying to do anything is if the 110 volts from the unbroken side are traveling through the compressor to ground. Since 110v is not enough to run it, the overload is kicking it out, cooling off, and repeating the cycle. When you kick on the Tstat, the contactor is supplying voltage directly to ground without going through the resistence of the compressor windings and kicking the breaker.
Post back and let me know what you find.