Condenser does not come on. select cool on tstat then egage contactor ht pump mode comes on then select heat at tstat push contactor in cool mode. tstat is a braeburn furnace is coleman and condenser ruud. I am pretty confident low voltage is wired correctly. W/ a response i can give more info, help please, sincerely
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Re: ruud heat pump
Did you just install this heat pump? If so it sounds like you replace a regular a/c with a heat pump, which will require more wires for the reversing valve. First check to make sure you have 24v going to the condenser. Make sure you have a heat pump t-stat. You should have a orange t-stat wire for your reversing valve. At the t-stat you will have terminals R, Y, G, O, X or C or B, W1, and W2. R is half of your 24v circuit and is a red wire, Y is for cooling mode, G is the Fan green wire, O is for the reversing valve, orange wire, X or C or B is the other half of control circuit blue wire, W1 and W2 is the heat strips in the furnace tan and black wires. These are standard color code but remember electricity does not know colors and an installer may have used different colors. If all of this is correct possibly bad contactor.
If I understand what you are saying, when your stat calls for cool the unit blows heat and when in heat mode it blows cool. Is this correct?
The problem is on a Ruud unit it does not use an "O" terminal it uses a "B" terminal (Reversing valve energized for heat) where all others use the "O" energized for cool mode.
As for the contactor not closing you need to determin if there is 24 volts between "Y" and "C" at the unit, if not then there is an issue somewhere up the line interupting the voltage, if there is then the fault lies at the unit, defrost boaard or pressure switch. call me and we can diagnose over the phone, this is what I do.
Richard (Rick) Drennan Global HVAC Distributors RUUD Field Support Representative / Instructor email@example.com 900 Spreckels Ave Manteca, Ca. 95336 Office (877)448-7263 Cell (209)456-0513
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Hello, check the tstat wiring going to the unit for any breaks in or if it has come loose between the indoor unit and outdoor unit. Also, chevk if you are getting voltage from tje control board between the y and c terminal, if not the control board is bad. Last thing to check is remove tstat and jump the y and r wires there if this starts the unit then you have a bad tstat.
MOST UNITS NOT HEAT PUMPS WIRE UP WITH 2 WIRES TO CONDENSER RED WIRE AND WHITE . WHITE GOES TO COMMON C ON FURNACE AND RED TO Y TERMINAL OF FURNACE Y ALSO GOES TO Y ON TSTAT. BOTH YELLOW WIRES MUST MEET AT Y OF FURNACE. WHITE FROM STAT TO W GREEN FROM TSTAT TO G AT FURNACE IF YOU HAVE C ON TSTAT HOOK UP BROWN WIRE OR BLUE FROM COMMON TERMINAL WHERE YOU HOOKED UP CONDENSER WHITE WIRE AT FURNACE TO TSTAT , MOST THERMOSTATS DONT NEED C RUN FROM FURNACE. THE TWO WIRES GOING TO CONDENSER IS - AND + TO ACTAVATE CONTACTOR IN OUTSIDE UNIT
First thing I would recommend is to go to the closest auto parts store and get an inline car fuse folder and some 5 amp fuses. Connect this to wire that comes off the transformer and goes to R. That way you will only blow fuses instead of transformers.
I will assume this system isn't a heat pump since it runs fine in heat mode. If it is, please let me know. Also, I will assume there is no circuit board outside, but let me know if there's one.
Go out to the condenser and remove the Y wire from the contactor, then try the system in cool mode. If the fuse blows, you have a short in the low voltage wire between the air handler and condenser and will need to find it, cut it out, then re-splice. If the fuse doesn't blow, you will likely need a new contactor.
The only unit I know that energizes the reversing valve in heat is Ruud or Rheem, All other makes energize in cool. When you switch from heat to cool htere is five minute delay. The y energizes the contactor on heat and cool. Make sure your tstat is ok. Rus Keep in touch.
Look for any refrigerant leaks - no or low refrigerant can cause problems in both modes. The unit may be going off on low suction.
The unit may be stuck in the heating mode.
Make sure the system is calling for the correct mode (cooling or heating) - some systems are auto, but if you can, select cooling since that is the requested mode. Check for power at the reversing valve inside the condensing unit. If power exists, then the reversing valve is stuck. It could also be the reversing valve solenoid coil, so make sure that isn't bad. There should be a strong magnetic field at the solenoid coil.
If you can hear the reversing valve clicking (moving), check the T-stat and make sure it will switch modes. Also check the reversing valve relay (those can be located in either the indoor unit or condensing unit).
It is possible that it's the thermostat. When you turn it into cool mode, does the unit come on at all or is it silent? If nothing is coming on, then it's likely it's the tstat. Did the tech check the refrigerant charge while he was there? He should have checked it with the auxillary heat off and the unit just in heat mode. Make sure that the condenser unit outside is coming on when you are calling for cool, If you turn it on and everything comes on, go outside and put your hand on the large copper pipe coming into the unit. In cool mode, this pipe will be cold to the touch and in heat mode, the pipe will be warm to the touch. There isn't much you can do on your own with the exception of changing the tstat. If you can answer some of the questions I have posed, I can try and give you some more answers. Just remember that a check up doesn't mean its a guarantee that something won't happen the next day, it's just that everything was in working order at the time of the checkup.
Check your wiring between the contactor and compressor for a short to ground, or check the compressor windings for short to ground.
With the Tstat off, the contactor should be open so the only way for the compressor to be trying to do anything is if the 110 volts from the unbroken side are traveling through the compressor to ground. Since 110v is not enough to run it, the overload is kicking it out, cooling off, and repeating the cycle. When you kick on the Tstat, the contactor is supplying voltage directly to ground without going through the resistence of the compressor windings and kicking the breaker.
Post back and let me know what you find.