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Listen carefully with your ear to the turntable when you move the tone arm towards the record. If you can hear the motor running and the turntable is still stationary then the drive belt from motor to turntable has probably fallen off of broken. Lift the turntable, there's normally a metal clip holding the turntable in place, and locate the drive belt.
OK a blast from the past. There is a switch that is in the base which senses that the cover is closed and this unlocks the arm and disk motor can rotate. The reason that the disk rotates when the cover is up is because this allows the disk to spin up to speed before the arm comes down. Once the cover comes down the switch unlocks the arm and the arm then moves this switch also can stop the disk if the arm does not unlock.
not really enough info at all. to start a record you take the tone arm(the thing with the needle...) and slightly move it to the right until it clicks and then the record will start. make sure youve taken off all the tape on the turntable and make sure its set to phono
I recently was given my Father's CR78CD and, assuming your unit is in working order, you turn on the turntable motor by lifting the tonearm off the post and moving it away from the turntable about one and a half to two inches. You should hear a soft click as the switch for the motor activates.
A lot of turntables start moving when the arm is moved to the record start. The turntable should move when you move the arm to the edge of the platter, even with no record. If it doesn't, listen to see if the motor spins. Then lift up the platter matt to see if the belt has slipped off.
Check to see if there is a cueing lever that is holding the arm in the up position. If no cueing lever and it has worked recently then something has happened to the changer mechanism. Open the bottom and look to see if there is an obvious problem like something stuck or broken. You may be able to make the mechanism go through its cycle slowly by rotating the platter with your hand so you can see where it is getting stuck.
Remove the motor assy and you will see the main nylon large gear, it had 2 metal cams under the one screw on top of it. One is the start cam and it must slide freely on top of the other one cam. Over time the grease binds up under the start cam and it doesnt move back in as the motor moves the nylon cogs around and so it start over gain and again. Degrease and lightly lube the metal cam so it moves freely by using your finger, reassemble and test.
Specifically the turntable AF-829:
I had exactly the same problem, and fixed this succesfully.
The problem is in one of the opto-coupler combinations (LED + LDR).
There are two, both located in the mechanical part of the turntable:
1. The first is for the detection when the arm reaches the end of the record, so that it will return to base. This is a red LED with an optocoupler in a little black case. This is OK.
2. The second one is for detection that the arm has reached the beginning of the record area. You can test this by manually pulling the arm from base and moving it towards the record. Then the turntable should start to rotate. You will see it does not.
The problem is that either the LED has not got enough light-emission any more, or the LDR has become more insensitive. It's a transparent LED that radiates RED light.
I replaced the LED by a new (red) one with higher light output, and now it's working fine again.
It's a bit after Jim's post, however I had what appears to have been the same problem with my LX770 after it had been stored in the loft for quite a few years.
I found the problem to be caused by the tone arm mechanisms stalling - The band that was associated with lifting the arm had turned to a black gunge and was not allowing the motor to rotate, also the motor associated with moving the arm backwards and forwards was struggling to turn.
I cleaned the tone lifting pulleys and replaced with a small elastic band (for a temporary fix). This was a little fiddly as you have to take off a spring and a couple of gears to get the new band in place. I cleaned the runners and cleaned off the grease on the worm gears associated with the arm tracking (as I suspected it may be more viscus than originally installed), lightly oiled the tone arm tracking gears. It still seamed to take an amount of helping the tracking arm gears until they were able to move freely. With the tone arm mechanisms working properly the whole unit now seams to be working.
Top tips if you attempt this:
WARNING - If the unit is plugged in, the transformer and high voltage wires are live regardless of whether the on button is on or off on the front of the record deck. PLEASE do not take any of my comments as recommendation you should ever do anything with the unit plugged in!
Remove the little stylus carrier before you start taking the player to pieces - saves damaging it!
Remove the record mat and aluminium platter before turning the unit upside down.
Manually push the tone arm to about 0.5cm from its furthest travel - so you can remove the tone arm mechanism plate. May be a little stiff as the wires have to slide of the pulleys for the tone arm to be pushed.
To access the tone arm mechanisms, remove the main bottom plate (and greasy spring), then undo the screws which hold on the rear undertray. With the decks buttons toward you, you should then be able to lift the rear tray slightly and tilt the tray towards you to expose the tone arm mechanisms.
You shouldn't need to remove the circuit board with the control buttons on the front of the unit.
After getting it going, I found that I needed a Phono preamp to get the signal strength necessary to use the deck for transferring vinyl to my PC.