Question about Dayton 511 Utility Heater
I have an older hanging heater and the wiring diagram is gone. It is a Dayton brand heater. The BTU is 125000. I sure need the wiring diagram.
If you intend to use this in a residential garage, you will have to use standard galvanized round pipe coming off the unit, 24 gauge will suffice, use a minimum of 6”-8” from the unit. From there you will have to make the transition to the B-Vent. Always double check with you local codes in your area.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
Contact Dayton on the internet for this problem. The diagram should be available on their site. Or they will give you a number for customer care. They can give you step-by-step instructions. I am a technician and this is what I would do as their are millions of wiring diagrams. Many are noy up to date.
Posted on Dec 07, 2008
you can look for a gas that we go in place of the one you have, try national energy they sell gas valves and should have one to fit your heater , i would change the thermocouple as well .
hope this helps
Posted on Dec 08, 2008
not hard but before replacing check pilot light and thermocouple for proper function and setting if pilot light not in right position thermocouple wont open gas valve if electronic ignition check for power and proper gap on igniter also check stat for proper function
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
What you bypassed was the hi-limit switch. This is a most important safety control. If the furnace heat exchanger compartment gets too hot this control cuts (opens up) the electrical circuit to the gas valve and shuts the gas flow to the burners. After that little round disc cools down to a certain temperature it will close the circuit and your furnace will run again until it overheats and does the same cycle. There is a reason this control is tripping on you. Your furnace is overheating consistently for a reason. The first thing I would look at would be the air flow thru your system Is your air filter dirty?If is is very dirty you lose your airflow thru the heat exchanger compartment and the hi-limit will trip like i explained before. Are all your supply air and return air registers open and not restricted in any way? They all need to be open. Do you have central air conditioning? The cooling coil in the plenum above your furnace(if your furnace is in a basement) may be dirty. You will need an experienced service tech to check it and clean it if it needs to be cleaned. I have ran into many systems in my business where the furnace is oversized for the size of the house and the furnace will consistently cycle on and off on the hi-limit contol for years util the hi-limit gets weak and fails. If that is the case you need to get a smaller BTU furnace as that is the only cure. Sometimes the ductwork was installed to small and you can't get enough air flow(supply or return) if thats the case there's not alot that you can do if all the ductwork in buried in the walls and ceilings. You will still need to re-install the hi-limit with a new one. It hase to be the same temperature rating as the one you took out. Contact your local dealer for one.
On your question about the flame sensor, it is the small probe that is actually on the last burner(the last burner that gets gas and lights). It is held in place by a single screw and has 1 wire going to it. Hope I was of help to you!! Good luck!!
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
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