Washer dryer - dryer does not heat up

sounds to me like a defective push start button. probably stuck on the on position

Check Fuses and Circuits. The Heating Coil may be shorted and fails. Needs a replacement.

Broken drive belt tho your model number is not for a dryer.

I am having the same problem on a WD9900A. The wash cycle works great. Spins fast and clothes are completely rung out. Dryer cycle heats up well. Fluffs and heats cloths. At some point during dry cycle water is injected on clothes and they end up sopping wet; much wetter than after wash. Filter is clear. Outlet pipe clear and functions well. Possible problem with dryer timer? Or washer timing kicking back on?

Answer Did you select an Air Only cycle or Air Only temperature option?
The Air Only cycle or Air Only temperature does not add heat to the dryer. Expect loads dried with the Air Only cycle or Air Only temperature to take longer to dry. Air Only cycle or Air Only temperature can be found on the control knob or button with the other temperature selections.
Has a household fuse blown or has a circuit breaker tripped?
The drum may be turning, but you may not have heat. Electric dryers use 2 household fuses or circuit breakers. Replace the fuses or reset the circuit breakers. If the problem continues, call an electrician.
Did you recently install a power supply cord on the dryer?
The power supply cord may be incorrectly installed. Review the Installation Instructions to make sure that the power supply cord is properly installed.

Doing a Load of Wash for Portable/ Kitchen Faucet
1) Make sure machine is set to Cold/Cold and never use Hot/Cold button (Hot/Cold is only for permanent hook-ups). Connect water hose to kitchen faucet. Turn on water to temperature of choice.

2) Load machine half to three-fourths full of clothes. (only half full is recommended if you intend to use the dry cycle right after the wash cycle. For half loads, push in the half-load button. )

3) Add detergent and fabric softener:
a. Liquid detergent into 2nd slot: only 1 tablespoon, 2 tablespoons maximum
b. Fabric softener into 3rd slot. this really helps in preventing wrinkles
(****NOTE: THE MOST COMMON AND MOST DAMAGING ERROR IN THE USE OF FRONT-LOADING MACHINES IS OVERSOAPING. oversoaping causes - pump failure, drain failure, etc. - none of
which are covered by the warranty. The only reason top
loaders use so much soap is because they use so much water and this dilutes the soap. Also, always use detergents that have an HE -- High Efficiency -- rating.)

4) Select Wash Cycle
Permanent Press is likely to be fine (32 minutes) as the USA has softer water than in Europe for which machine was originally designed. Hard water, as in Europe, means it requires more detergent and more washing motion than in the USA. Prewash and/or Superwash (53 minutes) might be preferred for dirtier clothes.

5) Select Spin Cycle
600 should be fine. A higher cycle means dryer clothes, perhaps more wrinkles, and certainly more noise. (Malber USA suggests 800-900 as the norm).

6) Make sure Spin cycle has cold water.
Faucet should be changed to cold water AFTER the initial fill even if you are not drying - all rinses should be in cold water for more complete removal of soap residue

If you use Dry Cycle
7) Select time for desired dry cycle. Make sure to change the faucet to cold water. If you do not want to use Dry cycle, select 0 minutes. Otherwise, use 120 minutes the first time until you can gauge what types of loads require how much drying time. Here's how the Dryer works: A heating element inside the washer heats up the load. During the dry cycle, as the cold water from the faucet circulates into the machine (in tubes, not mixed in with the load), it cools the steam and condenses it into liquid water which is pumped out.

After Wash & Dry
8) It takes approximately 90 seconds after the cycles are completely done before it allows you to open the door. Malber USA says it is due to safety requirement of UL. Who knows what UL security feature is for. Perhaps extra time to finish draining.

9) door slightly ajar to let the machine dry out. I have read postings that say the machine becomes smelly with mildew if you do not. Malber USA says this is true for all horizontal axis (front-loading) washers.


Most common complaints
1) Using too much detergent.
Front loader machines do not need so much water, and thus not so much detergent. Also USA water is softer than European water, for which the machine was originally designed, and that may explain why the detergent compartment is so big to hold more detergent. Soft water is easier to get suds. Damage is caused by suds. Suds migrate up the hot air duct during wash cycle and come to rest on the heating element. After repeated occurrences, suds (which are corrosive) will cause rusting and eventual failure of the heating element.

2) Dryer does not work, for several main reasons:
(thanks to Malber USA for points a and b)

a) the system may have overheated, tripping the safety thermal switch. This switch is located under the top of the machine and can be easily fixed by the consumer.

b) broken working thermostat. It is a relatively inexpensive repair to remove and replace this part and takes only about 10 minutes. It can be done by the consumer but it
is recommended that a qualified tech do the job.

c) Machine is too full and/or fabrics are too heavy.
Even though you can wash a maximum load of 11 lbs. of clothes, the manual suggests to dry no more than 7 lbs. of cotton clothes and 5 lbs. of heavy or extra large fabrics. Thats because the dryer works by heating up the clothes and then condensing the steam from the circulating air into liquid water which is pumped out. If the machine is filled too much or if the fabrics are too dense (e.g., jeans), the system cannot condense enough water and the clothes remain humid. Perhaps a second 2 hour dry cycle could work, but who wants to dry clothes for 4 hours.

d) Broken heating element
Seems that the heating element breaks after 2-3 years and needs to be replaced. And why is that? Most common reason for heating element failure is oversoaping. Suds migrate up the hot air duct during wash cycle and come to rest on the heating element. After repeated occurrences, suds (which are corrosive) will cause rusting and eventual failure of the heating element. But many people simply choose to not use the dryer rather than have it fixed.
Hope this works. Please be sure to rate me. thanks

The water level vacuum switch are not working , check hose might lose.

washer dryer and dryer ony machines differ in a huge way. the big diff. is the drums on each are completly different sizes. the conventional dryer has the bigger, giving better air flow and tumble to clothes. the w/d has a smaller drum thus less air flow and less tumble between clothes. the best way to see this effect is remove half the clothes after a wash and then select a drying cycle. u will see that by giving the clothes more room to tumble free of each other rather than tumbling in a large ball will dry them. washer dryers are really only a marketing tool.
(ex main brand engineer)

The cold water feeds for condenser cooling and for wash cycle drum fill are controlled by separate solenoid valves (manifolded together at the cold water inlet hose union). When the solenoid on my condenser coolant valve failed a couple of years back, I got symptoms like yours. A new pair of valves isn't expensive to buy and is a trivial job to fit. If this is what has been happening, suggest you also inspect the insides of your dryer fan and of the pump - neither of mine took really kindly to having been cooked for hours on end. Alastair.