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5 amp fuse for Lights,Warmer & Rotissorie switches for defy 420 4 plate stove

I have replace all these swictches and plugged in the wires on the back of them.I have bought 2 x 6amp fuses and screwed them in at different times and the Fuse blows all the time when I switch on the stove.
Can anyone help please with this problem.Diagrams for the wiring of switches will also be helpful

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  • nigel188 Oct 30, 2008

    THIS FOR A DEFY 420 4 PLATE STOVE

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Im sure u using the wrong amperage fuse

Posted on Dec 28, 2010

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Admiral ultima stove


Without knowing much about different stoves they do all have a central break out point for the electrical. I would suggest a professional look at it but if you dig in yourself trace back the burner wiring back to the source where it breaks out to the four. I am sure that is where you problem is.

Mar 12, 2014 | Cooktops

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How to fix GE cooktop error code F116


First, i tried turning on/off power with no luck. if you get this code you will probably just need to replace the LF burner, which is pretty easy to do. i researched and found GE OEM parts from appliance zone. info is below:

ApplianceZone.com Items
1 Stove / Oven / Range Radiant Element Lf - WB30T10080 (OEM) @ $170.67 = $170.67
Sub-Total: $170.67
Shipping: $6.95 Standard Shipping (6.95) USD
ApplianceZone.com Total: $177.62

Once i received then new burner i just replaced it and all is working fine, no error code!
First i turned off all power and removed my cooktop from my counter and unscrewed the sheet metal shroud on the bottom, only remove the screws around the perimeter of shroud closets to glass, they are small black Phillips screws, like 15 screws total. i didn't disconnect any wires from the unit to junction box, you should be able to leave all that alone if you have a long enough connection. i made the mistake of leaving the cooktop upside down when removing the metal shroud, don't do this. there are springs on posts that keep the burners tight to the glass and will fall out (if up side down). leave the cooktop right side up and just lift off the glass once you remove all screws, when lifting the glass off, there is one plug at the circuit board attached to glass that you will need to unplug to completely remove the glass and set aside. you will see the 4 burners, i took a picture of the unit with glass removed to make sure i could reference any wires when i was re-installing new burner. i unplugged all wires to LF burner and unplugged the harness from the circuit board. once i removed old burner i noticed the new burner doesn't include the 2 tabs you need. i removed them from the old burner and made sure to install them in the same location on the new burner. I than plugged in all wires and harness back into the unit and set burner on posts with springs. carefully replace glass and don't forget to plug the glass top circuit board back into the unit circuit board. re-attach metal shroud and screws, drop in and done! there are instructions to re-calibrate the new burner which is probably a good idea, i didn't and it is working just fine! good luck

on Nov 16, 2013 | GE 30 in.JP950 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

Glass top is scratched and discolored...can you replace just the glass top? Susan


GLASS MAINTOP ASSY
Part Number PS253905
price around $812.92

Replaced main glass cooking surface on cooktop

First, shut of the breaker to the cooktop.
Then removed two screws to release brackets holding cooktop down. Then lifted the cooktop out of the recess in the counter top and removed the screws around the outside of the glass top. Removed the old, cracked top, by unplugging from the motherboard.
Turned the new cooktop upside down on table and placed weather stripping around the entire underside outside edge (to keep spills from going under the cooktop and cushion the cooktop from the counter top.
Then plugged the new cooktop into the motherboard, replaced screws around outside edge, lowered the cooktop into the recess in the counter, and reinserted the two screws into the hold-down brackets.
Turned the breaker back on.
Note: Just need Screw drivers and 40 minutes of your time.

Feb 03, 2011 | GE 36 in. Profile JP968 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

I have an Amana smoothtop AK2H35 the large dual burner seems to overheat. It gets so hot, that everything burns, when I turn the temp down, the burner does not turn off, though eventually, it does turn...


Hello there
I will answer this in 2 sections for testing the burners and the thermostate
Surface Burner Testing:

In order to test the surface burner on your electric range, the following steps should be taken:

  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


  2. Remove the surface burner from the stovetop. On most electric ranges this can be done by pulling the burner up and out of its plug-in receptacle. Other models have the burner directly wired to the cooktop. To remove this type of burner, undo the screw that secures the burner to the cooktop, remove the clips that secure the insulators to the burner terminals, and carefully unscrew the wires from the terminals. Take care not to bend these terminals.


  3. Visually inspect the burner - often there will be small holes or bubbles on the surface of a defective element.


  4. Now that you have removed the burner, you can test it using your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1 and touch the test leads to the two burner terminals. The VOM should show continuity. Typical burner readings should be somewhere between 19 and 115 ohms, depending on the range manufacturer. If there is no continuity, the burner is defective. To test for a grounded (or shorted) burner, place one test lead on the outside surface of the burner and the other test lead on each burner terminal in turn. If there is continuity at either terminal, the burner is defective.


  5. If the burner is defective, replace with a new one by reversing the removal procedure (step 2 above). If replacing a wired-in burner, make sure that you install the wires on the correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram

Oven Thermostat Testing:

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.

  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


  2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
    1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
    2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components.
    3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
    4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
    5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.


  3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.

    Adjusting the thermostat:

  4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.


  5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.

Dec 01, 2010 | Amana Cooktops

1 Answer

I have a four wire on a 20 Amp service. I need 110 outlet.


4 wire recepticals are used for 220 Volt appliances, there should be 2 hot (117V to ground) and one each Grounding and grounded (read neutral) conductors) Breaker or disconnect should be 2 pole for 220 Volt circuit. A 20 Amp 110/117 Volt circuit would have a single pole breaker or disconnect, one "hot" conductor(should be black or colored , not green or white), one neutral conductor (should be white or neutral with white stripe) and an equipment grounding conductor (should be green or bare copper). It sounds to me like your receptical was wired for 220 V using whatever colored wires were handy. Back up to breaker or fuse (disconnect), and shut off circuit. New 117 Volt outlet will be wired with Black to Brass colored screw (short slot on face), One White wire will be used for Neutral conductor (make sure you know which one it is at the breaker panel) and one of the other white wires may (but shouldent be) used for ground (use green marker to identify it at each end),The third white wire should be removed if you can, otherwise cap with wire nut at each end and coil up in back of boxes. At the breaker/ fuse panel, the Black wire is connected to the breaker (It will be your "hot" lead), The white being used for the Neutral is connected to the neutral buss bar with the other Neutrals, and the green goes to the grounding buss bar (should have other green or bare copper wires. Once all is properly connected and secured but without the disposal plugged in, turn on the power and check for leaking smoke (smoke here is a bad thing) The fuse or breaker should protect your wires and help keep that smoke inside the boxes. Check voltages at the new plug, 117 V accross Short and longer slot, 117 from short to ground (round) and 0 or close to it from long (Neutral) to ground. If voltages check, plug in the new appliance and test.
If in doubt about what you have, dont hesitate to contact an electrician, they get paid for their knowledge and experiance and their ability to keep that nasty smoke inside the boxes.
Good Luck.,

Aug 14, 2009 | Jenn-Air JED8230 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

Broken selector switch


TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Lift out cooktop, remove all machine screws holding the glass frame. Remove plastic knobs and lift glass top straight up. Make sure rubber gromits are not ripped or torn. Unscrew the small screws on the selector switch and then lift up and tilt over the small aluminum chasis holding the switches to expose the wiring connections. Pull off the wires and pull out the defective switch. Replacre switch, connect wires, re-seat switch chasis, and secure switch with screws. Carefully drop in the glasstop lining up the switch shafts and the rubber grommets. Secure the top with machine screws and drop back in the cutout.

Apr 18, 2009 | GE 30 in. Profile JP350 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

Top right burner will not work


Your units connections are slowly becoming comprimised. Before our unit went out completely, it went through this phase. A cleaning should fix it.

1. After the unit has cooled down, with all of the 'reminder' lights off. Turn off the main power at the fuse box. You NEVER want to work with an electrical appliance's innards with power being supplied to it.
2. Remove the unit from the countertop. Turn it over and rotate it if needed so that the power supply is not tightly pulling it. Remove the two screws holding the clamp on the power supply wiring.
3. Remove the screws holding the two different boxes together, and the screws holding the main box to the unit. Lift up the two pieces separately, careful not to yank them apart.
4. Remove the ribbon connector from the green computer board. Open the teeth on both sides of the pin and remove it.
5. Using needle-nosed pliers, squeeze on the white plastic posts holding down the upper board. Lift the corners of the board up gently, working with one at a time. Gently remove the board.
6. Look for corrosion or contaminants. Spray the entire lower board clean with compressed air. Spray the entire upper computer board clean with compressed air. Gently replace the upper board onto the 4 white plastic posts.
7. Spray the end of the ribbon connector, then replace it into the upper board. Remove the other end from the main board and spray it before replacing it.
8. Gently touch all the connections, looking for any that have loose contacts. Do not pull on any wires. Spray the entire board, and the adjacent fan, with compressed air.
9. Reassemble the protective coverings and then the power supply clamp.
10. Return cooktop to normal position in counter.
11. Restore main power at the fuse box. The unit should send a series of lights through every bulb, TWICE. If this was the solution to your problem, it is now fixed. :-)

Jan 12, 2009 | Dacor Millennia ETT365 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

GE Profile JP350 cooktop stopped working


OK, i think the problem took care of itself. definitely got water down in the infinite switch for the lower right burner. let it dry 12 hours and reset the breaker, now works fine. but, i know if i do that again, or if it happens randomly, i will have to replace the switch and seals (available at repairclinic.com)
to do that, you have to remove the cooktop (screwed down by a strap in the back to the back wall of the cabinet) remove the sheetmetal to access the switches and replace. just keep the wiring straight, and ALWAYS replace the seals, they leak over time.

Nov 09, 2008 | GE 30 in. Profile JP350 Electric Cooktop

3 Answers

Viking Gas Cooktop - Ignition sparks continuously when in 'on' position


This is likely caused by either a dirty ignition electrode, a cracked ignition electrode, or a bad spark re-ignition module.

Clean and inspect the six electrodes for cracks, If that doesn't solve it order a new
Ignition module from an internet appliance dealer that carries Viking parts like Appliance Zone.

If you replace the Ignition module yourself, make sure to turn off the circuit breaker to the range/cooktop before you work on it. Also, make a drawing of where the different color leads are plugged into the ignition module before you unplug the wires and plug them into the new re-ignitor. If the unit is under one year, this should be covered under the warranty.
Viking had a recall a few years back on their ignitor modules.

Jun 03, 2008 | Cooktops

2 Answers

No responce, breaker is o.k.i have power to unit.


before trying something bigger - take the thing out of the countertop & lay it upside down on a towel. Take apart the 10 or so short phillips screws around the periphery which hold the bottom cover on. Lift the cover up JUST A BIT (several connections between the halves) and you will see a ribbon connector between the circuit board that is the "touch sensor" panel under the glass and the main power switching controls. Try taking apart each end of the ribbon connection a few times and "cleaning" by going off & on the pins. The connector is very similar to that on a computer HD - just less pins. This procedure worked fine for me & brought evertything back to normal!!! Be careful putting things back together that all the high voltage wires are correctly routed and the 2 grommets inside the control box go back into place. This will all make sense when you open things up. Good LUCK! /KRK

Apr 30, 2007 | Dacor Millennia ETT365 Electric Cooktop

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