Question about Yamaha TSS-1 Computer Speakers
The speaker system sometimes works and sometimes not. During the summer, it did not work at all. All connections are fine. When the temperature is cooler, then the speakers work again. All this time, the headphone port WORKS perfectly. Therefore, I ruled out the optical digital connection and all other connections. Please help! I thought about replacing these speakers but I have grown very attached to them. Thanks
I had the same problem.
The solution above didn`t work for me. It seems that is not an overheating problem because the speakers don`t work even when I just turn them on and the unit is still cold. I agree with the other post above that is probably the faulty transistor, that doesn`t turn on the chips by disingaging the stand-by pin.
So I just removed the connection of pin B and connected the emitter (E pin) of Q312 with the closest pin of R378. You can either sort-circuit E with the middle pin (collector) of Q312. It is the same. Now the chips are "always on". So if you are pushing often the speakers to the limit you might really add a fan. Because now you don`t have an overheating protection anymore.
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
After having the same problem with my TSS-1 system I took it apart to find a solution as no one seems to have one. After analyzing the circuit I found that there is a major design floor with one of the systems that puts the amplifier ICs into standby, basically making them output no sound all the time (headphones on a separate amp so they work all the time). The solution (requires soldering iron, scalpel or other sharp fine blade, 4K7 ohm resistor): Disconnect the amplifier/decoder unit from all connections. Remove the case screws and open up the unit. On the back of the large circuit board locate where components R337 and Q312 are (right and down a bit of the hole in the center with the volume controls facing you) Q312 has 3 soldered connections 2 are labeled Follow the track from the joint labeled 'B' it should link up with one of the joints on R377 and another component. This is the track that needs cutting. Using the scalpel, very carefully cut the track as close to the 'B' on Q312 as possible. After this track has been cut solder the 4K7 resistor between the B on Q312 and the joint on R377 where the track used to run. Make sure that none of the leads on the resistor touch any other joints. Put unit back together Problem solved Ive had no problems or overheating since
Posted on May 17, 2007
Thank you very much.
Your solution was very helpful to solve mine.
In my case, npn tr (Q312) was also bad.
After replacing that tr with C945 (general npn tr)
and applying your solution, my speaker works just fine.
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
This is what I did:
1. Removed npn tr Q312
2. Joined Emitter and Collector of the board
I'm sure Mattgill solution would be better; I just had no a tr replacement.
Posted on Jun 20, 2010
You may simply need to keep a fan by them. Or you feel a little bit brave, try opening up the unit with the power connections and if you know some soldering, hook up a fan inside.
Posted on Sep 11, 2006
Take the cover off the computer or the unit if seperate. Put a fan on it. Sounds like your sound card is overheating. You need to contact Dell and tell them the problem. Dell is very good at helping customers on their Dell products. But, if it is not still under waranty they may charge ya. Make sure you ask them about charges.
Posted on Sep 13, 2006
As far as I can tell, this unit does not have a breaker or anything that would "trip" and be reset by powering off and on. It does have a fuse, which can blow (I replaced mine once) but if the fuse blows, you'll get no power until the fuse is replaced. Spidi, is your computer connected to your subwoofer's line 1 in connection or line 2 in connection? If line 2, that would explain the problem because the auto-off circuit only monitors line 1 in. If there is no signal on the line 1 input, it will power off every 15 minutes. If you are connected via line 1 in, the subwoofer should stay on as long as the volume is fairly loud. That's my problem. At low volume levels, the unit will auto-off even though I'm hearing plenty of bass through the sub. Drives me nuts, but I haven't found a way to disable the auto-off feature. Schematics anyone?
Posted on Nov 07, 2007
This has continued to happen to me. Once I even gave up. But then I didn't want to be conquered. I actually took apart the entire assembly, took my time, and redid everything. Wonderful, all is working again. Now this may not be much help without detailed photos, but if you look at the whole shebang carefully and think about it all, you will see where everything is and what you will need to do. I disassembled the connected into tiny little pieces and rebuilt it all. I did this because I REALLY like the sound and the construction of these Yamaha products. I even went ahead and bought two moew new sets of the System 25's on e-bay for $31.31 each including shipping. You got me thinking some more, and I think that I will take the large cord that goes into the connector and either duct tape it to the body or make a connect/cord support to take of the stress on the pins. Good luck.
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
This problem can be solved by either of the following:
1/ Modify the PCBA to prevent the auto shut off feature from working. This is done by adding a 20k ohm resistor across pins 1 & 2 on the timer IC6. This resistor will prevent the timer from turning off the amp. To do this, unplug the amp. Remove the 8 screws on the perimeter of the rear of the amp. Carefully remove the rear plate. Disconnect the speaker wires at the speaker and the front panel connection on the main board. Locate IC6 on the bottom of the main board. Solder a 20k ohm resistor (1/4W) across pins 1 & 2. Pin 1 and Pin 8 are noted on the board. Be sure to insulate the leads of the resistor to prevent contact with the board. See picture. Re-assemble in reverse order.
2/ Some 5.1 channel amps allow independent control of the volume for the subwoofer in their setup. Check your amp to see if you can raise the signal level going to the subwoofer to prevent the amp from shutting off. You can then dial back the volume of the subwoofer using the volume control on the front.
Posted on Jan 08, 2011
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