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When the bucket is full the arm is up the maker is off.
If the ice maker has a on/off button in off the ice maker is off
If the ice maker internal heater fails the cubes will not release and the white plastic ejector arms will be rotated CCW and pressing against the ice in the tray, Normal position for ejector arms is vertical.
If water solenoid has failed or water supply not available the ice maker will cycle. The ice tray will be empty,(hard to see if ice tray is empty). Check and replace water fill solenoid.
If ice in tray and ejector arms vertical several possibilities.
Freezer not cold enough to trip thermostat in ice maker to initiate release cycle.
Check freezer temperature <10 Fahrenheit thermostat in ice maker failure
The best way to check the operation is to manually lock the arm up into the off retention position. Wait a minimum of one hour. Open door and release arm down. Observe the operation of the ice maker. Is after a minute or so the ejector arm does not rotate then it is likely the ice maker has failed internally. If the ejector turns and no ice than you can assume either the water supply is off external from the refrigerator or more likely the water solenoid located behind the bottom back cover has failed. It is also possible that the hose that connects the solenoid to the ice maker has frozen right where it enters the freezer just above the ice maker. You should see ice built up at the entrance where the water fills the tray if this has occurred.
Noticed you did not list your model number of your Kitchenaid Refrigerator. I see a model number KSRD22FKST above your post is that correct? If yes there are a couple things that may be causing this. If the ice maker mold/tray is
full of ice and will not cycle most times the ice maker thermostat Click Here=> KSRD22FKST while there look at item number 27 in photo. That is your ice maker's thermostat that tells the ice maker when ready to cycle and fill with water again. The part Number is=> 627985 they also request that you order the sealant for ice maker thermostat=
If your ice maker was leaking before and after the valve replacement, it is likely the ice maker that is at fault. The ice maker energizes the water solenoid, its not a pump, which then opens to allow the pressurized water flow up to the ice maker. If the valve solenoid has been replaced, the culprit is likely the ice maker itself. The valve should only be open for about 7-9 seconds, but if the ice maker motor is slow, or if there is some other malfunction with the ice maker, it will energize the valve for too long, causing it to then overflow. It could also be a hairline crack in the ice maker mold that is causing it to leak.
Ice maker has adjustment on right side of power head. If ice maker is inside on upper left, you can remove white cover from it and the adjusting screw in on right. Turning counter-clockwise will decrease fill by 1/2 to 3/4 of ounce. Sounds like a small amount, but ice make only uses 4 ounces per fill. If this does not fix, try replacing fill valve. If ice maker ice bin is in the freezer door, you have to remove cover to ice maker in the top of freezer. Ice maker is screwed into top of freezer and need to be removed to take off cover to adjuster screw. same procedure for reducing water flow time as above.
Try using a hair dryer to thaw out the rubber tubing leading to the ice tray. On mine, I opened up the front door to the icemaker and found the rubber tubing leading in. I squeazed it, it felt frozen, so I applied heat. Water began dripping out, the area thawed, and I had ice again within a short period of time.
there is a micro switch in the ice maker motor module that shuts power off to the ice-maker water valve when the ice maker is full but i rarely see them go bad this is the easy way to deal with it pull the unit out unplug both the valves and turn the water on a sec if its running in the ice maker with the valves are unplugged then replace the valves if its not replace the ice-maker motor module