Ceiling fan and light wiring, 2 switches, 1 romexHunt
I am installing a ceiling fan and light kit and am having trouble wiring them. The wall has 2 switches, but only one romex goes to the fan. There are two blacks and two whites coming into the box. One white coming in is connected to the bottom switch and the other white is connected to the white going out. One black wire coming in is connected directly to the top switch on one side. The other black wire coming in is wired to the one going out and a third is connected to this and runs to the other side of the top switch. I have on the ceiling one black and one white. How do we wire this ceiling fan and light kit to this configuration where one switch is for the light and one for the fan. The old fan was wired for these switches but unfortunately our son took it down without us seeing how it was wired first.
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Re: ceiling fan and light wiring, 2 switches, 1 romexHunt
If you have only one black and one white in the ceiling to connect the fan / light to , then you have only one switch for this ceiling box. The fan / light will connect the white wires together and then the two colored wires on the fan to the black ceiling wire. In order to use separate switches for the fan and the lighht a 4 wire cable must go from the switches to the light so you have a red and black wire to switch the two separately .
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Unplug your Whirlpool Duet washer from the wall receptacle.
Remove the three screws along the bottom front of the washer. Pull the bottom panel from the washer, opening the front of the washer.
Reach your arm up through the opening to locate the door latch assemble inside the body of the washer. Grasp the tear-shaped tab with your fingers. Gently pull down on the tab until you hear a click. Pull on the Duet door to open it.
Look inside the latch opening in the body of the washer for foreign material. Remove it from the switch with tweezers or needle-nose pliers. Look for any pieces of broken plastic that could indicate the door lock mechanism is broken and needs replacing.
Shut the door on the washer and plug it into the wall receptacle. Confirm that the door remains unlocked. Unplug the washer and release the lock on the washer door as before if it fails to remain unlocked.
Unplug the Duet washer from the receptacle. Pull the washer from the wall so you can access the rear of the washer.
Remove the three screws from the top back of the Duet washer. Lift the top off the washer. Find the central control unit, or CCU, at the back right of the washing machine.
Check that all the wiring harnesses plug securely into the CCU. The wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids is the sixth harness from the left of the CCU. The wiring harness for the door-lock main switches is the only black harness connected to the CCU.
Remove the round retainer holding the rubber boot gasket from the Duet washer door opening by inserting a flat-head screwdriver beneath the spring on the retainer. Pull forward on the retainer spring to release it from the boot gasket.
Pull the rubber boot gasket away from the opening at the switch location to access the door switch assembly. Check the wiring harness on the switch assembly to make sure it is engaged. Snap the gasket back in place, and replace the retainer on the washer.
Plug the Duet washer into the wall receptacle. Select a washing cycle and press start. Listen for the door lock to engage. Turn the washer off and listen for the door lock to disengage, or wait 30 seconds and try to open the washer door.
Unplug the washer from the wall receptacle. Pull the wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids from the CCU. Number the sets of wires attached to the wiring harness as 3, 2 and 1, from left to right.
Set an electrical multimeter to "Ohm X1K." Insert one probe from the multimeter into opening number 3, along with the wire. Insert the remaining probe into opening number 2, along with the wires. The multimeter should read 60 ohms. Leave the probe in opening number 3, and move the remaining probe to opening number 1. The multimeter should read 60 ohms in this position as well. Should you receive any other reading, replace the wiring harness.
Reconnect the wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids into the CCU. Plug the Duet washing machine into the wall receptacle. Select a wash cycle on the duet, then press start. Listen for the door lock to engage and immediately unplug the washer from the wall.
Leave the wiring harness for the door-lock main switches plugged into the CCU. Number the wires in the harness 5, 4, 2 and 1, from left to right. The middle opening on the wiring harness is empty, so there isn't a third wire.
Set the dial on the electrical multimeter to "Ohms X1K." Insert one probe into the opening next to wire 5, and insert the remaining probe into the opening next to wire 4. The meter should read zero ohms.
Insert one probe into the opening next to wire number 2, and insert the remaining probe into the opening next to wire 1. The meter should read zero ohms. Replace the wiring harness should you receive any other reading.
Probable trouble areas, in order of likelihood are: 1) Heating element has broken and needs replacement. 2) One of the thermostat/overheat switches has failed, needs replacement. (there are from 2 to 5, depending) 3) A wire inside the back or the bottom has burnt in two, needs repair. ( often near the heating element) 4) A wire has burned or broken in the back of the machine where you attach the electric cord from the wall/floor. 5) A circuit breaker has tripped for the heating part of the dryer. There are two wires from your "fuse box" to the dryer, one for the heating element, and one or the motor and controls. I you should decide to fix it yourself, you will be needing tools and testing instruments, and a letter to "fixya" could cause someone to help you with the steps to do so. Be blessed.
If your model number is correct, all the heating circuits on your dryer are easily accessible from the back of the dryer. All you have to do is unplug the dyer and remove the back panel. Look for the Thermal Fuse. This will be a small plastic looking component with two wires attached to it. Its mounted on the blower fan housing on the left hand side of the dryer (as facing from the rear). Unplug the wires from the Thermal Fuse and take a resistance reading across the terminals. If good, it will read 0 ohms. If bad, you must replace it.
This component will blow in an overheat/over-current condition and must be replaced. Usually when this component fails, it fails for a reason. Check your blower fan housing for any clogs or obstructions that may be causing the dryer to run hot.
For clarification, refer to appliancepartspros.com for exploded view daigrams of your dryer. Just type in your model number and look under Section 3 for item 19 (part number AP3132867).
Something else to consider:
1. Does the dryer have multiple breakers? An electric dryer runs on 220VAC. Some home use two 110VAC breakers instead of one 220 breaker. Double check your power distribution and make sure you have the breaker(s) set properly.
2. Have you checked the voltage at the wall receptacle? Unplug the dryer and take a voltage reading across the two hot (left and right slots) terminals. If good, you should read 220-240VAC.
3. Have you verified the power cord is good? You can check the power cord by leaving the dryer unplugged and remove the back panel where the power cord is installed on the back of the dryer. This is called the terminal block. You can either perform continuity checks between the prongs on the cord to the terminals at the terminal block, or you can plug the cord back in and take a voltage reading across the RED and BLACK wires at the terminal block.
If good, you should read the same 220-240VAC that you read at the wall receptacle.
If continuity is good you will read 0 ohms resistance from the end of the power cord to the terminal block.
4. Have you verified the door switch? When you open the door is the drum light on? With the dryer plugged in, you should be able to open the dryer door and see the light on insode the drum. Toggling the door switch with your finger, this light should go out if the switch is making contact. If the switch is defective, the dryer will not run.
I hope I've given you enough items to consider. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
You have a venting problem. Some makes of condo size dryers have a lint screen inside the drum at the back. Check and clean. If not then there might be a screen in the wall or the ceiling of the room the dryer is in. Trace the vent from the dryer to the wall or ceiling. There should be a vent fan in the ceiling. Try asking the condo property management if there is an exhaust fan in the wall that needs cleaning.