Question about GE Profile JGSP44 Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range

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GE Gas Range Serial #317B6641P001

After using the oven, it was turned off and a few minutes later an F2 code kept coming on.  It would clear for a minute and then come back on along with the beep.  I don't know how i did it, but I finally was able to stop it from beeping.  I haven't used the oven since then, for fear that there is something seriously wrong with it.  Could you please give me an idea as to what would be causing this.  Thank you

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6 Suggested Answers

eagle338
  • 4889 Answers

SOURCE: My oven keeps beeping F2

checkout this link...
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=75624

Posted on Nov 04, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: F2 Code Problem

I can't take credit except searching and found this info.. I will order to see if it fixes my error messages..Tom

All, I hope that this helps everyone having this annoying problem. The problem is the F2 error that seems to come on everytime you use the oven. Well, it was driving my wife crazy, so I finally gave in, and had a GE technician come over to fix it. :) It cost me $190, with $80 for the part and $110 for the labor. Had I known what the problem was, I could have fixed it myself in 10 minutes, and only would have had to buy the part. My loss is your gain. The technician replaced the sensor, part #WB21X5301 (can find at (www.geappliances.com (http://www.geappliances.com)); cost is $76. If you open the oven door, the sensor is on the top left-hand side and is long and skinny. Instructions come with the part to replace it. Basically, you unplug the oven, take out two screws, and cut the two wires to the sensor. You then use wire nuts to connect the new sensor wires, and push the :) wires out of the oven area into the back panel. That's it. Problem fixed. Glad I could help out others!! Merry Christmas! JakeDecember 11th, 2005, 02:25 PMThanks for the information and update back on this problem you had.:)

You can also buy that same part#WB21X5301 from here, abit cheaper:
Oven sensor assembly (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=1265&N=252618)

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

Krazytech
  • 725 Answers

SOURCE: F7 code flashes and beeps

F7 stuck keypad
Stuck keypad may mean relay is turned on.
Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.

If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

Posted on Sep 21, 2009

Icebassman 5
  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: F2 and F3 Errors just started on my GE Electric Range

Try to unplug the oven for about 10 minutes. It might reset itself.
Iceman.

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you very much Iceman! Prompt and helpful."

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: display panel on stove not working properly, cannot use the oven

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
&^%$tr

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

KevinWhite
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: After running a self clean

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

You are on right track, as you have already checked the sensor which has around 1100ohms so the problem is with the electronic control board that is bad and needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Posted on Dec 27, 2010

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I can't take credit except searching and found this info.. I will order to see if it fixes my error messages..Tom

All, I hope that this helps everyone having this annoying problem. The problem is the F2 error that seems to come on everytime you use the oven. Well, it was driving my wife crazy, so I finally gave in, and had a GE technician come over to fix it. :) It cost me $190, with $80 for the part and $110 for the labor. Had I known what the problem was, I could have fixed it myself in 10 minutes, and only would have had to buy the part. My loss is your gain. The technician replaced the sensor, part #WB21X5301 (can find at (www.geappliances.com (http://www.geappliances.com)); cost is $76. If you open the oven door, the sensor is on the top left-hand side and is long and skinny. Instructions come with the part to replace it. Basically, you unplug the oven, take out two screws, and cut the two wires to the sensor. You then use wire nuts to connect the new sensor wires, and push the :) wires out of the oven area into the back panel. That's it. Problem fixed. Glad I could help out others!! Merry Christmas! JakeDecember 11th, 2005, 02:25 PMThanks for the information and update back on this problem you had.:)

You can also buy that same part#WB21X5301 from here, abit cheaper:
Oven sensor assembly (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=1265&N=252618)

May 04, 2008 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

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