My subs are direcred comp x subs my friend had them and pounded them really hard for a long time. they are dual voice coil and the braided wire that runs from the terminal on the sub up to the cone is boke right at the cone but everything else on the subs are in almost perfect condition. is there any way to fix this?
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sure, if you wish to wire them all together, wire the first dual voice coil subs first voice coil negative to 2nd voice coil positive, second voice coil negative to single voice coil sub positive, and single voice coil negative to 2nd dual voice coil subs 1st voice coil positve (again with the second dual voice coil sub, run the first voice coil negative to the 2nd voice coil positve) your speaker leads will be attatched to first dual voice coils 1st voice coil positive, and 2nd dual voice coils 2nd voice coil negative)
- kkkjohnson - Please clarify your question. Do you mean they stopped working all together. -First make sure the amp going to the subs is still working. -If not, stop and trouble shoot the amp (fuse, loose wires,etc) -If it is working, check the wires going from the amp to the subs -If the wires are connected, your next step should be to dismount the subs and hook them up to a digital multi-meter (DMM) To use a DDM to test the subs ohms do the following: Figure out what the specs of you subs are...ie...what ohms and voice coils the are (dual 2 ohm, 4 ohm, etc. After that, place the black/negative wire/lead coming from the DMM tol the negative terminal of the sub. The place the red/positive wire/lead to the positive terminal of the sub. Then set the DMM to the ohm symbol. It should look like a horse shore symbol. Then allow 5 or 15 seconds for a accurate reading of what the ohms are. For instance a dual 2 ohm sub should read anywhere from 1.6 ohms to 2.4 ohms...each sub is difference. Check both sides/voice coils if it is dual voice coil subs. For instance if your sub is dual 2 ohm sub and you get a read that is higher than the numbers listed above (ex. 8 ohms, .05 ohms, etc); this would indicate that you have a blown sub.
That amplifier is only rated at 150 watts at 4 ohms, or 300 watts at 2 ohms. Not a very strong amp to run 2 kicker comps. My guess is you have the subs wired wrong for your application. There are 2 types of subs, one is a dual 4 ohm, and one is a dual 2 ohm. Most people bridge these coils together and that cuts your ohms in half. For example. Lets say you have the 10cvr104 subs. Thats the dual 4 ohm sub. You wire the coils together in parallel, now its a 2 ohm sub. You have 2 of these subs running off of your amp, if they are hooked up in parallel, now you have a 1 ohm load, out of the amplifiers normal operation. Your amplifiers internals heat up really quick and there is a thermal overload, putting your amplifier into circuit protection mode. My suggestion for wiring your subs is as follows: for each speaker, wire the coils together like this- positive coil1 to negative coil 2 and negative coil 1 to positive coil 2. That is called running in series, and doubles your ohm load. Next, we need to wire the speakers together properly to hook up to your amplifier. For this, since the coils are hooked together, you only need to use one set of terminals from each sub. And take the positive from sub 1 and hook it to positive of amp. Take negative sub 1 and hook it to positive of sub 2. Take negative of sub 2 and hook it to negative of amp.
It really depends on what subs you are mounting in the box. If you are mounting single voice coil subs, it's easy. positive of the sub goes to positive on the inside of the box and the negative of the sub goes to the negative of the box. Then you would repeat the process for the other sub. Then wire the box to the amp using the push or screw terminals.
Now if you have dual voice coil subs, that's where it can get tricky. You really have to know what amp your using and what ohm load it can handle, and how many channels you will be using.
I'm going to give you an example that has two dual 4 ohm voice coil subs. Let's assume you will be hooking them to a 2 channel amplifier that is 2 ohm stable.
wire the positive of both voice coils to the positive post of the box. then wire both negatives of the voice coils to the negative of the box. Repeat the process with the other sub. This is called a parallel set up. Two 4 ohm voice coils wired this way will produce a 2 ohm load. since your amp is 2 channel, you will hook the positive and negative to the positive and negative of one side of the box, then repeat with the other channel to the other side. This will allow the most power to come out of a 2 ohm stable amplifier.
If you have something other than the equipment I gave you an example of, repost with your equipment specs and I will walk you through it.
The 2 sets of terminals are connected internally. Having 2 sets just makes it more convenient when wiring multiple subs. The amp is rated for 900 watts RMS into a 2 ohm load. The specs claim that it is stable at 1 ohm but does not give a power rating.
The Radial SD competition series from Phoenix Gold are rated to handle up to 600 watts RMS. If you have the model RSdC124 with dual 4 ohm voice coils, it would be best to wire the voice coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load and connect the sub to one set of terminals on the amp. If your sub is the model RSdC122 with dual 2 ohm voice coils, you should wire the voice coils is series for a 4 ohm load and connect the sug to one set of terminals on the amp. Wiring the voice coils in parallel will result in a 1 ohm load. And, while the amp may be stable at 1 ohm, the sub will be seriously overpowered.
Your PSW815 has 2 ohm dual voice coils allowing you to better match the impedance to your amp. Each voice coil is 2 ohms. If you wire them in parallel (both +'s together and both -'s together and then to the amp terminals), the sub presents a 1 ohm load which is too low for most amps. Wiring the voice coils in series (one + to the other - and the remaining + and - to the amp terminals) results in a 4 ohm load.
This link shows the wiring diagram for both options. If you know for sure that your amp is 1 ohm stable, use Wiring Option #1. If the amp is not 1 ohm stable, use Wiring Option #2.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage drops below ~11 volts on either terminal when you drive the amp hard, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is dropping too low.
The two seperate wire terminals on the sub are for dual voice coils which means. If You hook up the first terminal to the second terminal then run speaker wire from the second terminal to the amp.It should then increase the subs frequency response and sound better which also means it will be able to handle more bass. As to just having one voice coil hooked up. The two terminals is pretty much the bridge for the sub.
The amp's not actually a very good match for the sub, since the sub can be wired for 2 ohms or 8 ohms, and the amplifier is most efficient at 4 ohms in bridged mode. My advice would be to wire the amp in bridged mode, and wire the sub for an 8 ohm load. To do this, the amp's (+) wire should go to the (+) terminal on one of the sub's voice coils. Then run a wire from the (-) terminal on the OTHER voice coil to the (-) terminal on the amp. The remaining (+) and (-) terminals (on opposite voice coils) should be connected to each other with a wire.
Your original wiring setup had the amplifier connected to only one voice coil, while the other voice coil was shorted.