I have the e6440m jl amp,an 8" jl sub, 2 tweets and 4 mid size jls. they came out of a boat but i want to put them in mw 98 tacoma. Im mentally challenged to say the least i know but is that gonna fly? and if so, i thought i could put the sub behind the pass. seat in the cubby beneath the fold-up seat? is there hope or is it a lost cause?
Sounds like it should be an easy task (fitting the sub), but you will have to make sure that the JL 8" woofer has at least 1" to 1.5" in front of it to enable the sub cone to move freely (without obstruction). JL also offers a range of "ready made" sub enclosures on thier website (including kits for Tacomas), which could give you a good idea on mounting options.
The amp and speakers came out of a boat? That should be no problem if you plan to install these components into a car. Some companies (eg: JL Audio) have specific models which enable the use of thier products in marine environments, having components less susceptible to corrosion, U.V. damage and moisture ingress than thier equivalent car audio products.
Your JL amplifier part number E6440M has "M" added to the end of it's product name denoting it is intended for marine use, however you can use the same amplifier in a car without any problems at all. The power voltages will be the same, and the signal inputs are designed exactly the same. The only difference is that the marine version will have the added benefit of less corrosion problems :)
Just to make sure that the speakers aren't damaged (from corrosion) before fittment, check the motor and magnet basket assemblies (visually) for discoloration (particularly white salty residue).. These discolorations and residues should be removed as much as possible before fittment to a car environment, so as not to cause corrosion problems to your car later on down the track.
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the best way? hmm. i would start off with some wire. Keep in mind that you will need to separate the positive (usually red or has a stripe or marking on it) from the negative (Black usually is the common color for this wire) and hook the up according to your amps positive and negative hook ups / terminals following your sub-woofers terminals. then depending on your sub woofers Voice coils (Duel or single voice coils) yours are duel or quad coils but i\'m sure they are duel (2 of each positive and negative equaling a total of 4 posts on each sub-woofer). figure out your amps ohm load handling and does your amp run hot (1,2 or 4 ohm stable some are even less like 0.5 or lower) i would run at a 1 or 2 ohm load as that is usually standard on 1 channel amps. make sure to check your wiring and if your not sure about ohm loads just Google wiring for sub-woofer ohm loads such as 0.5 ohm, 1 ohm, 2 ohm or 4 ohm loads. also make sure your box is not sealed do to the fact they are siht and cant produce sound like a vented / ported enclosure keep the size as big as you can fit in your car or truck the bigger the better. i had one 8\'\' sony sub pounding like a 15\'\' sub real loud . Also MDF particle board is garbage it causes port noise and absorbs water
yes. this is not a jl audio amp. and does not give you the option to choose hi and/or low pass on the front side.
of course, you know the assumption is made that you'll drive the front amp through mid-range and tweets and the rear amp through your W0's.
you can however,
a. turn off the xover so you get the full range sent to your W0's. b. then it would be easy to place an in-line low-pass coil so your subs only see frequencies below he cutoff range you choose.
its a pretty common electronics store/Radio Shack item, just a few bucks too.
you dont want to connect both of those amplifiers together. You could run them separately to separate subs or the jl to your sub and your alpine to your front speakers. But you dont ever want to mix and match amps to the same sub. Even if you had 2 jl500/1's you wouldnt want to just hook them up together. Because they both have to be putting out the exact same amount of power. Which no 2 amps are ever exactly the same. Some companies make bridges to properly connect 2 exact amps together. I Hooked up 2 JL 1000/1's to each voice coil on a 13.5 W7 and i smoked the sub. So i definitely dont reccommend doing it unless the amps are conneccted to separate things.
I believe what your trying to do is to run 2 12" subs and some other satillite speakers? We used to do that all the time.. That is called running the amp in "mixed mono" that's where the mids & tweets are run in stereo while the subs are bridged mono. This configuration is what made Rockford Fosgate "The Bomb" back in the day. To do what you want your subs have got to be 8 ohms, NOT 4, Dual Voice Coil 4 ohms would be OK. Before i tell you how it can be done let me tell you what will happen... For one thing you will be "making" your own cross overs for the subs and mids and tweets. Forget about using the cross overs on the amp. 2ndly you will lose about 1/3 to 1/2 of the amps power because the crossovers are so inefficient, so don't even think your going to get anywhere near 1200 watts from the amp. More like 300, and that's on a good day. But if you still want to do it you go to your Radio Shack and get 1ea 6.0 mHy (milhenry) coil and two 47 mfd (microfared) capacitors, or something close to that value. So you would wire your mids & tweets normal in stereo and on the + line to each mid wire in the 47 mfd capacitor. That is your h/p crossover which will crossover your mids @ appx 130hz. Now on your subs. You want to wire them in parellel (both +s twisted together and both -s twisted together so it looks like there is just one woofer with a + and a -) Than from the L+ of the amp run a wire to the coil and from the coil to the + of the woofers, than using the R- of the amp to the -s of the woofers. Do not use any of the amps built in crossovers leave it on full. Good luck. Mark @ Sounds Good to Me Tempe, AZ
Just had a look at both amp and sub on the JL Audio website. The amp runs from 1.5-4ohms. 4ohms at 14.5V. The sub is running dual 4 ohms coils. That's what the D-4 means. So should be an easy set up. The amp has two mono outputs, so one for each coil. It looks like the perfect wattage to run the sub real nice. Web page for amp: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=439 Web page for sub: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=18
You can connect them in a series/parallel configuration. Put two of them in series and then connect the last one in parallel across the two in series. This would give you an impeadance of around 2.7 ohms. Only do this if your amp is stable at 3 ohms or less. I am not familiar with the specs of your amp. If your amp is only 4 ohm stable you can not do this.
This would also give you half the power on the two subs in series as the power for the one that is parallel. The two in series would be sharing the total output signal, where-as the one in parallel would get the entire output signal from the amp.
if you were to connect a fourth sub woofer in this configuration it could give you a 4 ohm load, by adding the fourth sub in series with the single sub that is in parallel. or in other words, yu have two sets of 2 sub woofers each in series. That gives you two 8 ohm loads (two 4 ohm subs in series is 8 ohms). Then you take the two sets of subs and parallel them (two 8 ohm loads in parallel equals 4 ohms).
If i had a picture to show you it would make sense, two subs in series that are in parallel with two subs in series.
Sounds like the output transistors on the amp are blown. Were you slammin when it stopped or how did you find out it stopped working. It could be the sub failed then caused the ap to go which is why you get a little something from the JL.