Question about AcerView F51 15 in. Flat Panel LCD Monitor

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Monitor sleeps after one second

I have an Acer LCD AL1914. The monitor light will turn green as soon as I startup the computer and stay green. After one second of ANY display (Windows loading, Windows startup) the monitor display goes black. The light stays green. If I turn the monitor off and on again, it displays "Acer" for a second, then goes black, then shows my desktop for a second, then goes black. The picture will not return after this. If I completely unplug the monitor from the computer and turn it on, it shows Acer for one second, goes black, then shows "No Signal" for one second, then goes black. I used the monitor for about 9 months before this problem came up. This problem occurred one two months ago but stopped after about 2 minutes. It has now persisted for over a day. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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SOURCE: ACER AL1914 LCD Monitor goes black but green light stays on

The monitor is doing a self test a finding an error.
The lcd has three parts, the screen plate(windows)/the logic(vga)/the inverter(power plug). Parts that go are the backlight ccfl's, behind the plate, and parts of the inverter, ie capacitors, all three take a bit of power from the inverter. The self test check that all the lights are ok and the inverter is ok, else it switchs off, ie if 3/4 light work it will switch off(my own case), hence the on chech error then off, However sometime there are stages of on/off ie on/ but no screen display, if that is the case the following may be of help...if you put bright light at an angle close to lcd can you see a windows shadow, text icons etc, ie still logic power passing,then .... (from a.n. other) after two weeks searching I finally find doctor living stone more fun with paulbtorrent
the takening the case bit off is like opening your wallet a second time after buying a new LCD, but you must! smallest two screw driver's flat headed, practice using two pennies stuck together()with your fingers after, one little () move and inch and {} again, with the case , it does not break, just need to lever open
[once open you realize they somehow put that old briefcase clip inside!] also note the bright light test to do first to see if can see a windows screen , and that capacitors are one for a number of things that a make a inverter work! there a transistors as well, given that however, to replace all the capacitors on my inverter, was 11 capacitors, cost me $11 (uk ebay) and already had the iron and solder. So only cost me me $11 to try and see but no luck , still fun and I still can see the screen for 2 sec' at a time plus I have a spare set of caps now in the event that the new one do go burst! you have to laugh really, what next , a new on/off button, as you work though the whole inverter mmmMMMMmmmMMMMmmmMMMMTim Berners-leeMMMMMmmmmMMMMMmmmmcome back all is not wellMMMMMMMMMMnnnnnnweek later land sight mmmmmMMMMMMMMMmmmmgggggggg(from
another a.n other)Generally, if the screen went out quickly, it was the inverter. If it went out over a slow period of time (flickering etc..) I would bet it is the lamp.replaceing the lamp should be pretty challenging. as that requires complete breakdown of your LCD, extraction of your dead lamp, and soldering in your new lamp... but I would like to say that I it did this after realizing it's 2 x kitchen strips inside [========] with wires that can connect back to the inverter with out any desoldering(ie kit assembly/dis) with the outter case remove (glass plate safe away) I could reconnect and see that 3/4 were working (i!i hardcard ) cause the inverter to switch off after a secound ! order bult and replace and going
to cheap and see if I can get away with fitting a 15" in my 19' as it a 1/3 of the price ! the market as drop out there, hope the inverter does not miss the length, or the screen out put. OR MONITOR

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

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Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, blown fuses, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed ACER monitors to get some ideas what to look for:
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