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In the vast majority of cases there is missing a functional Backlight inverterboard or a led matrix board depending on type for the backlight on screen.
Repair or replace , but in most cases observe capacitors if they are bulged or leaking everywhere bad solderings , best is to repair and take oversized capacitors by 10 volt higher parts they have about the same cup size to fit between the other components, resoldering ALLWAYS the supression coils that are on inverterboards because of the sometimes bad removed insulation coating of the wire ends of this coils.
If that is the case, it is not the pulley itself that is loose, it is the outer ring of the pulley separating from the center hub. There is a rubber spacer in there that shrinks over time and allows the outer rim of the pulley where the serpentine belt rides to move either inward or outward. Eventually it leads to belt damage and breakage, and in worst-case scenario, the outer ring can come off the pulley entirely and can cause damage to the radiator or other parts. It cannot be repaired, it must be replaced as a unit. Do it sooner than later to save yourself grief.
It is not the outer case only, the HP/ Compaq laptops outer case is very thin fiber, from inside you've a metal hinge and bar holding it. You can take it to a local store to get it repaired. I would suggest if you have HP Accidental Damage Protection (ADP), you should call HP. They will replace or repair all accidental damages.
When you split the case (depending on how you split it) the crank will stay in the left case half or the right case half. Whichever doesn't matter. Just take a rubber mallet and knock it out of the half it is in. Now would be a good time to replace the outer bearing and seal behind the front sprocket. Also replace the shift shaft seal.
By the way, this may be helpful > Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx Could you take a moment and rate my answer? Thanks!
Sorry to hear that, I think you may have to look at an Outer Tub replacement. You may have these links but I will post them just in case. The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Outer Tub P/N 25001199
I would call Maytag the outer Tub is warranted for 10 yrs per the the Service Manual.
Good luck Rich.
Motor to transmission coupling broken. Original WP parts are ruber and plastic. The plastic appears to be a common break part. An improved replacement part is available with metal inserts.
1. Unplug washer from power.
2. remove 2 screws on front of machine below dials. This allows you to flip the knob box out of the way.
3. Disconnect 3-prong electrical connector.
4. Remove springs holding outer case to back of unit. A flat screwdriver will make this easy.
5. Tip outer case of washer forward then rock the case side-to-side to dislodge it from the front seat. Remove outer case and set aside.
6. Disconnect the electrical connection to the pump and the 2 connectors to the capacitor.
7. Remove retaining clips from the pump with a flat screwdriver. Do not remove hoses from pump.
8. Remove retaining clips from motor. These should be secured by a screw which will need to be removed first. Remove the top clip first and the motor will tilt down.
9. The coupling is comprised of 3 parts, two plastic gears with legs which slip into the black rubber connector. One gear fits onto the shaft from the transmission or "gearbox", the other fits onto the shaft coming from the motor. One is probably broken and there will likely be black debris from the rubber connector. This lets you know for sure this was your problem. The gears will need to be removed by prying them off or use of a gear puller.
10. The replacement part runs $15-20 and should be in stock at a good appliance parts center or it can be found on the interent but you may have to wait a day so plan your repair accordingly.
11. Install the gears on both shafts first. A 3/8"+ socket and extension can be used to tap the gears onto the shaft fully. Once the gears are installed, place the rubber connector on one gear and lift the motor into position to fit the coupling back together.
12. Reinstall the retaining clips on the motor and the screws on the clips.
13. Reinstall the pump and its retaining clips.
14. Reconnect the 2 connectors to the capacitor and the electrical connection to the pump.
15. Reinstall the outer case by first setting the front edge into position on the frame and tilting it back into position.
16. Reinstall the springs holding the outer case to the back of the washer. The flat screwdriver will help again.
17. Reconnect the 3-prong electrical connector and flip the knob box forward into postion.
18. Reinstall the 2 screws holding the knob box on the front of the washer.
19. Plug the washer back in and test the washer by setting it to the spin cycle to see that it spins.
20. For the do-it yourselfer it should take an hour to an hour-and-a-half plus time to and from the parts store.
No it is not fixable, wouldn`t it be nice if the manufacturers would include this in the owners manual ? Your wife is not the first to do this by any means, windex and other cleaners are very caustic to these panels and should never be used. the entire "panel" has to be replaced and it`s the most expensive part in your set, I`m sorry to be the bearer of bad news but at least you now know and won`t repeat the mistake, BMW Rider