Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top Load Washer

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The top of the washer has loosened from the base. How do I take off the outer shell to fix the problem? It is in the front top of the machine.

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Here is a schematic of a base model of your series. More than likely the block drive is loose which is part 17 and should be replaced along with the nut.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/retrieveSubComponentPartsAction.action?modelNumber=LSQ9549LQ0&productCategoryId=0153200&brandId=1198&modelName=WASHER - DIRECT DRIVE&diagramPageId=00003&componentDescription=AGITATOR, BASKET AND TUB&documentId=W0207069&backToLink=Return to Sub Components list

Posted on Nov 01, 2008

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Hi,

I'm Ben and -- hopefully -- I can provide some meaningful assistance.


1. Locate the outer clamp band securing the seal to the shell of the machine and examine it carefully. Many can be carefully pried off with a flat-bladed screwdriver, but some have a tensioning arrangement that has to be loosened.
2. After removing the outer clamp band, locate the inner one securing the seal to the drum and establish how this is secured. It may be necessary to loosen a clip, or you may be able to prise the band off with a flat-bladed screwdriver.
3. Once the clamp bands have been removed, use both hands to pull the seal away from the locating lips on the shell and drum.
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You may find the following video helpful


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1 Answer

We just moved the washer now the door does not seem to be seating tight and water leaks around it. What can be done


You've probably twisted the outer shell of the machine a bit. First, inspect the door hinge and latch for any sign of displacement or bending, and fix as necessary. If you still have leakage or can't see a problem with the door itself, dry the door gasket thoroughly, then whiten it with chalk wherever the door is supposed to contact it. Close the door, then open it and inspect the chalk pattern to identify which way the machine is twisted. (Wipe off the chalk before your next wash cycle.)

Loosen the trim plate screws on the bottom front; if there is a service access panel there, remove it. Loosen the screws holding the bottom of the shell to the base plate, then push the shell in the direction needed to obtain a seal centered on the door gasket. Tighten the screws. If necessary, open the top of the machine so you can loosen the screws and repeat the adjustment. (Usually the front of the top is fastened with a couple of spring clips and can be tilted up like a range top or the hood on a car. Undo the screws that hold the control panel and the back panel, then carefully pry up the top from the front seam using a flat screwdriver wrapped in tape. If it doesn't move with moderate force ask questions about your specific model before you tear up sheet metal).

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1 Answer

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The outer case catches under the frame across the front and there is a tab on either side on the frame near the back these tabs go into a slot in the flange on the bottom of the case. You may need to loosen the control console to do this. 1. Disconnect the power. 2. Remove two screws, one at each top corner on rear of console. 3. Push a putty knife under the front of the console near the corner. You will feel the resistance from a spring steel clip. Push, firmly toward rear of machine. clip will release and console will be loose. Repeat at other front corner of console. 4. make sure outer case is hooked under front of frame. 5. Put case on both tabs(check at rear corners on back of machine to assure that back panel and case corner are in the modling that aligns the two. This is sometimes like a wrestling match. Take your time it can be a test of your patience. It is helpful to see diagrams available at www.sears.com under Parts direct. Find your model number and an exploded view is available. Good luck.

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1 Answer

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Well, first, I would remove the outer shell again and make sure the wiring harness is on the motor correctly and all of the way. Also, check to make sure both wires are securely on the capacitor. These may have loosened while you were doing the coupler. Also, make sure the door switch harness that plugs into the top of the shell is securely on. If the motor worked before you changed the coupler, these are your most likely problems. If the motor didn't work when you replaced the coupler, try bypassing the lid switch by jumping the two wires (the two that are not green) on the harness that plugs into the shell. If the motor works after that, replace the lid switch. If it does not, your will have to check voltage at the timer and motor to see where the fault lies.

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