Question about Dryers
The dryer sqeaks really loudly while drying clothes. I imagine it's a bearing, but haven't been able to find a schematic of the dryer so I can investigate. Due to my limited DYI experience, I like to see what I'm getting into before I tackle repairs. Dryers are so simple, though, that I would like to take a swing at fixing it (vice $600.00 for a new dryer).
Any assistance you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
SOURCE: Fisher & paykel Dryer
If your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with:
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Drying is too slow It normally takes about 45 minutes for a dryer to dry a full load. If your dryer is taking more than an hour or is not drying properly, check these.
Vent Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance.
Heating element Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it.
Internal ductwork Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct. If it looks clogged and you can't clear it using your vacuum, contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
Cycling thermostat Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork with two screws.
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Posted on Sep 28, 2008
Thermostats, the dryer temperature control switches, are controlled by the temperature inside the dryer or by the heat of the motor. One or more thermostats on the panel can be adjusted to control the temperature in the dryer. Operating thermostats sometimes stick, causing control problems. These thermostats are usually positioned near the exhaust duct bulkhead or the fan housing of the dryer. Remove the back panel of the dryer to get at them.
Before you make any checks, try tapping the housing of the thermostats lightly with the handle of a screwdriver. This may jar the contacts loose. Temperature control switches are located behind the dryer control panel, and the panel must be removed for switch testing or replacement. Here's how to test and replace the thermostat:
Step 1: To check the control panel thermostat, make sure power is off to the dryer. Test the thermostat with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each thermostat terminal. If the meter reads zero, the thermostat is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.
Step 2: If necessary, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type. Connect the new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.
Step 3: To check an operating thermostat, first make absolutely certain that the power to the dryer has been turned off and the dryer is cool. Then disconnect the leads to one side of the thermostat. Test an operating thermostat with a VOM set to the RX1 scale; clip one probe to each terminal of the thermostat. Disconnect the leads to one side of the thermostat so that the meter won't give a false reading. If the meter reads zero, the thermostat is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.
Posted on Oct 10, 2008
dryer's have a long belt that runs around the drum. a common culprit is an idler pulley on the belt tensioner. you can take off the front of the dryer and oil it for a temp fix. it will probably need to be replaced
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
my Fisher Paykel auto sensor dryer keeps stopping and beeping, i have to stop it and and re start.
I had the same problem. I took it off the wall and vacuumed up all the lint from everywhere including around the back and including taking off the back and vacuuming everything I could reach inside. I then used a damp cloth to get rid of the rest of the lint/dust.
I thought I was wasting my time but guess what, the problem has gone.
Posted on Nov 08, 2009
the coments above are typical but not for this brand of dryer. I am not a Service technician but Very Handy. You can access the service summary (or Diagnostic Mode) by:
1)Turn on power to unit
2)Press & hold down the Auto Dry button, while you momentarily press the Power button.
3)Press the Auto Dry UP button 3 times to read the "Last Fault Option". Different combinations of LEDs has a specific value(refer to the WIRING DIAGRAM located under the control panel)
***The entire dryer can be disassembled with only 6 Philips head screws. In my situation, I had the same issue listed above (No Heat). Start by making sure your ductwork exhaust has no blockage or kinks. Take a Shopvac and vacume every bit of lint up inside and out of the Dryer.
Turns out that my problem was nothing but a Manual Reset button located by the Heater Coil Box (Located lower front and right)
***This is an overload arrestor that tripped due to a build up of Lint!
The button clicks when it has been reset, then it works fine. Once again, make sure your Dryer is spotless before you close it up, (unless this is a part of your routine maintenance, haha).
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
SOURCE: I want to replace the
Now you need to get your hands on the replacement part for your dryer, you will need to find an authorized F&P servicer to sell you the part (part #479332 btw) or call Fisher & Paykel directly to get the part from them.
OK below at bottom, is a user manual, below, is an exploded parts manual, this should help
Above is a place to get the bearing kit.
Posted on May 06, 2011
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