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Remove carb float bowl. Clean bowl. Observe float bowl screw, look for hole thru bolt, if present use thin wire to clean out. Float should be hanging freely and gas should be flowing, raise float gas should stop. Pinch off gas line or use shut off valve. Remove pin from float, remove float and needle meter. Use thin wire to clean out passage were meter needle is inserted, wire should pass thru to behind choke. Replace float & meter needle. Replace float bowl. Pull rope half way several times. Inspect primer bulb for cracks or leak. Try to start, may take 5 or more pulls to prime.
The Toro with the Tecumseh carb has a known problem that I've recently become aware of. The carb needs a good cleaning and if you're savvy you can do it yourself. I've found that the easiest way to get at the sideways-mounted carbs on these things is to first remove the muffler and then take the whole manifold and carb off together. Then separate the carb from the manifold. Remove the float bowl and give the carb a good cleaning with carb cleaner. But pay special attention to the bolt (main jet) on the bottom of the carburetor (here's the "Trick" I told you about). At the very top of the threads on that main jet (brass float bowl bolt), there is a VERY tiny hole you can barely see with the naked eye. Take the pin from the needle valve and stick it thru that hole and spray it out well with carb cleaner (scrub it with a brass brush if there's any crud on it). Be sure your carb is thoroughly clean and put it back together, making sure the linkage is correct and it should run fine. This fixes 90 percent of the Toros I work on. Best of luck to you.
This sounds like the carb is plugged. Sometimes fuel thickens and makes globs...
If you verified the fuel flow to the inlet of the carb, then you need to take the carb off and open it up....
So, what needs to happen is you blow out all of the passageways with carb cleaner.
Any adjustable jets: make note of the position it is in, and FINGER TIGHT turn it clockwise until it closes (typically 1 to 1 1/2 turns) SOOOOO, you can set this jet back to the same positon....when finished blowing everything out, bottom the jet and back out the number of turns out, noted for that jet.
Open the float chamber, and clean as necessary, Inspect the float adjustment: invert the carb, and observe the angle of the float, relative to the carb body.... Usually almost parallel, but not necessarily.
Inspect the inlet valve, and clean those areas...
I usually use all new gaskets and valves, but if you are not a carb person, cleaning is effective and I think old gaskets may be okay, if not torn or damaged.
Underneath the carb there shoul be a bowl screw head, usually 1/2in or 13-13mm. Loosen bowl screw a little, fuel should come out. If so, pinch off the fuel line to the carb from the gss tank or empty the gas tank. Remove the screw from the carb bowl. Inspect the hole inside the screw & the hole or holes thru the screw near the screw head for debris. Spray with carb cleaner & tap on hard suface to dislodge debris, you may have to use a small wire to clear these orfices. Make sure the float is free to fall down. You can remove the float, carefully as there is a spring & a needle valve at the back of the float in the middle where it is hinged. Ensure the needle valve is clean & the tube to the carb is cleam. After cleaning everything & clearing any clogs re-assemble carb & try to start.
The gears are marked - but sometimes the marks are not at all obvious. The cam usually has a punch mark on one of the teeth. The crank may have a punch mark, or a chamfered tooth (NOT easy to spot). When you have located the marks, line them up. Job done!.
If you really can't see any marks, position the crank at TDC. Turn the cam so both valves are off their seats. This will be close enough. May be 1 or 2 teeth out from where Brggs intended.
Popping through carb at low or cranking speed is not necessarily a problem. It's a function of the compression release mecanism on certain models.
Dont know if this is the same problem but it may help. I've recently bought a used Toro 6.5 recycler and have cut the lawn 3 times with it. This third time it began to stall out on me. If I hit the primer button several times it would start up but then die again. I thought I'd have to pull the carb and clean it, ut after looking at a few problem listings online I realized it was probably just some trash in the needle valve. I managed to get it running again by first pushing the primer pump 3-5 times, then pulling the cord to crank it, then while holding the contact bar in place with one hand to keep it running I reached down and pumped the prime button a few times before it cut out again- after one or two tries it apparently flushed the trash out and it ran fine again. Had the same problem later and fixed it the exact same way, then went on to finish the yard.
Sounds like you have a blown valve. I'm assuming this is a 4 stroke motor, if it was 2 stroke then it would be the reed valves. But either way it's the valves.... unfortunately that will require a mechanic :(
Screw both screws right in (don't force them) Then turn each screw out 1 & half turns each OUT. This will get engine running. To fine tune- turn low speed screw out, bit by bit, while idling, till engine revs change, then turn screw in till revs change, the correct setting will be somewhere between the 2 adjustments you just made. Do the same thing to the high speed screw, but with full revs. Good Luck. Stevo..