This has been happening for a couple of years sporadically. Over the last 6 months it has started happening at least on a weekly basis. It will even turn the light on and I cannot turn the light off. Sometimes the light goes on and off extremely fast for 5 minutes or more. What part is it that has the problem?
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Equipment is Whirlpool double oven RBD305PDS14 built-in. After a very stormy summer 2007, I thought a power surge may have zapped the control board. Problem initially presented on display as error & fault "E6 F2"; simply pressing "Timer Off" would usually clear this error & fault code.
However, some months later, the display would often go completely blank followed by the beep sequence "short-long-short-short-short" (Morse code: dit dah dit dit dit). No error & fault code would appear. Pressing any keypad oven control did not work at all in this condition. When power was cycled at the breaker panel, the usual "PF" with clock display did not appear.
[TURN OVEN POWER OFF AT BREAKER!!!]
After following the excellent information on "how to remove the control panel" posted in this forum, I first tested the "control panel thermal fuse" (refer to the tech sheet that should be behind the control panel once it is removed). It showed a closed circuit.
I turned my attention to the "flexible" keypad connector cable (error & fault code "E6 F2" is a keypad or keypad connector problem; again, refer to tech sheet). The control panel has a board mounted female connector with two tabs that may be gently pulled upward to release the flexible cable.
I cleaned the flexible cable contact area (it seats into the board mounted female connector) carefully with a Q tip and some isopropyl alcohol. I reinserted the flexible cable and gently pressed down on the two tabs (noted above) on the board mounted female connector. VERY GENTLY tug on the flexible cable to insure it is gripped by the connector.
After all of this monkey business, I re-mounted the control panel display panel on the oven and restored power. So far, so good. After applying power, the "PF" with clock display always appears. I am able to set the clock and press "Start". Over functions normally. The clock displays as normal and I no longer observe the problem I described above.
BTW, I noted the incoming 240V has transient suppression (no surge protection, however).
No solution, just that you are not alone. We have had our Whirlpool super capacity 465 for 10 years, and about a year ago that large burner started to randomly go to high, even though the control is set to simmer. Ruined a few meals by not being right there watching.
If you are not fitting genuine
elements, this is probably the reason they are failing so quickly.
You will pay a lot more for the genuine article, but they will last a lot longer.
Also make sure the fan is working o/k, as this can cause premature element failure.
please rate my solution.
It is really just coincedence if you hadnt bout it then somone else would have and they would feel like you feel now. It was probably a small crack or defect just outside eye view in your oven door or just a bad piece of glass that wasnt hardened just right. There isnt a large volume of these happening on your model# and I wouldnt worry about it. Stuff just happens, plus this opens a door for you most buyers wont have. If something else happens in say 3 years the control board shorts out. You then call Whirlpool and tell them they should have replaced the unit from the start cause you think its a lemon. Since you had issues with it in the first year, they will usually cover any repair and parts cost for you even though most appliances only have a one year warranty on them. Lastly, no this was not a cheap purchase and yes it does stink that it broke but at least it did happen while in warranty. Just tryin to help you make lemonade with your lemons. Hope I helped.
Would need the codes to be sure,but sounds like the control is out the part will run you around $200.00 And don't wait till two weeks before Thanksgiving cause you won't find one till after New Years by then.lol Hope this helped you ou.t
Are you replacing the hinge guides as well? The hinge is usually only one half of the problem. When you remove the door, look into where the upper long arm of the hinge resided. You will see a little runner wheel. Touch it with a thin screw driver and see if the wheel feels loose. I'll bet at least one of them is!
I got a Delongi Mic form argos too ,model ED8525S-SBD, sounds like a similar problem to what happened to it last year. Issue is that the bulb explodes (mainly due to the very strong spring on the door I think) leaving filament lieing on the metal chassis, hence the trip switch in your fuse box trips.
Didn't manage to find a replacement bulb but at least if you remove the old bits then it will get the machine back up and running and stop the trip tripping!
Take off the top by removing the 4or 5 screws around the outer edge at the back. The bulb sits directly behind the front panel inside its own metal chassis. There is a diamond shaped black plastic flange which the 2 power wires feed onto. 2 metal lugs hold this inside the chassis. straighten the lugs and the bulb holder pulls out. Even with the bulb removed I think there was a blown fuse and I had a further issue with the turntable not turning(this feeds off the same circuit as the bulb). So maybe Argos were right - the machine only cost £80 at the end of the day!