When operating the unit in dry (dehumidify) mode, it blows cold air. Yes, dehumidification works by passing room air over cold so moisture condenses. But other dehumidifiers mix warm air from the compressor with the cold(dehumidified) air that blows into the room. The DPAC9031 instead exhausts the warm air from the compressor to the outside of the building. That's fine on hot days, but when the room is already 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and the dehumidifier needs to run for two hours to get the humidity level down, the room also becomes very cold. I'm wondering: 1) Is my unit working as designed? 2) If yes, does someone sell a hose adaptor for this unit that will divert part or all of the warm exhaust into the room? 3) If no, how can it be fixed so that dry mode doesn't also continuously cool?
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Yes for dehumidifier, no for heat mode. In dehumidifier mode all the unit does is takes air in, runs it through the evaporator (cold) coil and the back through the condenser (warm) coil discharging dry, slightly warmer air back into the room. In heating mode however if you don't vent the exhaust there will be no heat produced. Warm air will come out the top but cold air will also come out the exhaust (essentially, in heating mode all it does is operates as an air conditioner in reverse. Hope this helps.
se this fact: God bless you air conditioning system cools but does not dehumidify the room. The most
common cause of inadequate dehumidification by an air conditioning
system is the installation of a cooling unit which has too much
capacity, or is "over-sized" for the space it is being used to cool.
What happens is simple:
If an air conditioning compressor unit is oversized (too many BTUH of
cooling capacity) what happens is it cools the room so quickly that the
system does not move enough total volume of air across the cooling coil
to remove much moisture before the room temperature has dropped to the
A/C cut-off point.
In other words, an air conditioner needs to run longer, and move more
total volume of air through itself to drop room humidity than it does to
just cool the air. So "bigger" cooling capacity or higher BTU capacity
for an air conditioning system is not necessarily better, and it can
actually be a problem.
The drain hose is only to be used when the unit is in Dehumidifier Mode. In AC/Cooling Mode, there needs to be water in the tank to keep the coils cool. It is not recommended to use continuous drainage in AC Mode. My personal recommendation is do not operate Cooling Mode & Dehumidify Mode at the same time. As the dehumidify mode generates heat. Not something you need to be doing when you're trying to cool the room.
Hope this helped you and thanks for choosing FixYa.
The best button to push for that is the cool button, then turn the thermostat all the way to cold.
The fan button will only move air around and will do no cooling.
The dry button is for dehumidification, in this mode the unit will run a low speed fan over the cooling coil to take the water out of the air.
So for cooling your best option is to push the cool button and crank down the thermostat...
Lets clarify. DRY mode only dehumidifes that air and does not cool. Cool is used for cooling. Dry mode doesn't normally have temp control; it is automatically set by the unit. I think 9000btu is a big unit for the room; it is overkill. I would switch to a 5000btu unit. it cannot be fixed and the BR unit needs to be uninstalled and the new unit needs to be re-installed. The price of commisioning, de-commisioning and new unit is something in which you will have to pay.
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The 'dry' setting is a feature which allows you to use the air conditioner as a dehumidifier. It works by cooling the radiator enough for it to attract condensation (mosture from the rooms air) which then drains into a tank or an external hose which dries the room. Even when used in cooling mode the unit will dehumidfy too, but because the fan is on it will be less effective. Also when the unit is in cooling mode it stops the compressor (cooling motor) when it reaches the selected rom temperature, however the dry function overides this and is a more effective dehumidifier as it will work in small spaces too. Hope this helps.
Dry Mode in AC is to dehumidify the room the fan cycles on and off and the indoor unit temperature drops below freezing which causes condensate to collect on the coil and as a result the humidity level of the indoor air is reduced
I assume you mean the exhaust side of the dehumidifier, which goes into the supply duct of the furnace.
All dehumidifiers, whether small portable types, or whole house types, exhaust warm air (which is also dry air) as they remove humidity. The whole house unit which you have is a great solution to humidity control. Since the furnace fan should be running on a call for dehumidification, the mixing of the air in the building which is circulating and the exhaust (Dry) air from the dehumidifier negates, or dissipitates the heat in the air coming from the dehumidifier.
Hi, I know this question's been up a while and I'm not sure if you care anymore but here goes anyway.
Most air conditioners are reverse cycle, so they can heat the air in your house or cool it down. What we are concerned with is the cooling side of things. So in this mode a working liquid is sprayed into the evaporator and cools its immediate surroundings. air is blown over the evaporator which cools the air. The local temperature around the evaporator is very cold, (how cold exactly I'm not sure) so the air in this region has a very poor ability to hold water and so (especially on a humid day) water condenses out of this air on the surface of the evaporator, is collected and drained away. The cooling function and dry function both use the "cooling" mechanism of the air conditioner. Both extract water from the air in this way but the primary purpose of the cooling function is to cool the air whereas the primary function of the dry setting is to dry the air... obvious I know.
Now in the dry setting the compressor will run with fan going at I imagine a relatively slow speed to chill and extract as much water from the air as possible and to minimise circulation. After a short time the compressor and fan will cut-out and then after a short interval start up again (I'm not really sure but I assume this is either controlled by a humidity sensor OR the temperature sensor monitors for a small change in temperature and shuts off the compressor and fan when it detects this). Now in cooling mode (depending on what temperature is set) the compressor will run for longer and more frequently and therefore remove more water. So why have a dry mode if cooling mode removes more water?... Well that really has the same answer as the question "when do I use dry mode?"
Well on a particular day where the temperature would normally be considered comfortable but on this day it is unusually humid, your body will find it difficult to radiate heat via sweat because of the already high RH (relative humidity) making you uncomfortable and feel "hot". Using dry mode will reduce this RH without adjusting the temperature by much, but you will perceive an ambient temperature drop due to your body being able to discard heat more easily... hence making you more "comfortable" in same way you would normally feel at that temperature.
On the contrary if you were to use cooling mode (which is regulated by temperature) you would have to set a temperature lower than ambient so that the compressor will "kick-in" rather than the air conditioner just running its fan...agree? So that means the air conditioner will reduce RH (which we want) giving you a perceived temp drop but it is also chasing the temperature which you set which will give a REAL temperature drop. So anyway the point is; if it was an unusually humid day on what would otherwise be a comfortable temperature, using cooling (remember the temp has to be set lower than ambient) instead of dry would result in you feeling cold very quickly due to the perceived AND real temperature drop.
So really the dry setting is for days which aren't too hot, but are humid.