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What type of pipe should I use to replace my broken underground water line. I live in the Atlanta, GA area.

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You will need to check on building codes. Copper is usually best from meter to house.

Posted on Mar 15, 2012

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Im using a salamander heater to thaw out frozen pipes in a double wide, been running for 3 hrs. I still do not have water! Could the underground pipe be frozen,if so how do I fix this?


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How do i eliminate moisture from an underground,natural gas galvanized gas line. I have no gas flow to my garage or my 75k garage heater.


Check on the local codes governing gas piping, but it would be my suggestion to consider abandoning the existing line IF you are sure there is a compromise to its integrity allowing water to enter. I would think if water ENTERS...then GAS has to be able to excape. It'd be a lot of condensation that's required to either just block the line or freeze and block the line. If it freezes due to lack of depth, it's going to rupture anyway sooner or later necessitating replacement.

At the above ground location before where it goes subterranean, (after checking the codes), consider installing the appropriate brass fittings to then allow a new underground copper line to be installed by attaching by means of an iron pipe to flare adapter in the appropriate size. Then utilize type L soft roll copper to lay in the new trench to the garage and tie it into the existing line inside the wall. Type L is the thick walled soft tubing and can be used in many locations for gas, whereas Type M soft copper tubing is thin walled tubing for use with water and not gases. Your area may not allow it. That's what building inspectors are for.

Before proceeding, MAKE SURE your line is in fact the problem then double check with a local authority whether or not copper materials are recommended along with brass fittings for the connections. IF the original and suspected problematic gas line is for sure GALVANIZED it is not in any way approved for use with natural gas. It is probably black iron pipe.

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What is the best method for retro-fitting a residential water line with a protective shroud, so that a concrete driveway can be poured over it?


Depending how deep it is underground there might not be a solution.
First of all waterline should be below the frost line, about 36" to 42". Anything shallower that that it might be asking for trouble from freezing if you live in a cold climate. If you can open one end of the water line you might try putting a steel pipe (schedule 80) around it then back filling with gravel prior to the concrete install. If you can't open one end of the water pipe cut a piece of culvert pipe in half, place both sides around the pipe, then use tie wire or clamps to keep the halves together then back fill with gravel.

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I need to replace a TIMER knob for a Euro-Pro toaster oven: Model TO161-FS Where can I find it in the Atlanta, GA area? Chris Loscavio Canton, GA


I have a really long address that lists places on the internet that carry parts. Maybe you can order the knob. Here is the address:

netshoppers.com/search/index.php?phrase=oven+parts&uid=d5d00793c96dccbcaa9b5f3ca3d412cd&kuid=4c4a6ef184c15b7eeffee322a7d94921&src=7s

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<a href="http://www.toasterandconvectionovens.com">ToasterandConvectionOvens.com</a>

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Your final question is an excellent one!
YES!-- they SHOULD BE!-- Are they truly, tho?- I doubt it!
and unless the power feed, and the thermostat connections come in from above the floor line, there invariably will be ways for water to get into this box!
So-- Can you shine a light down thru the floor grating, and can you see signs of water having gotten into the equipment?-- Can you remove the grate, and check it out closely?
Let us now what you find-
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PLease try look on google. On internet you can find almost everything.
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