So I have a pair of these hooked up to an enclosed box run off of a 700 watt amp which I never push hard(the gain isn't even half way up). I used to have them in the trunk of my 95 civic coupe, and the sound was great. Right now I have them in my 95 camry and I get fuzzy distortion at higher volumes. Not even at very high volumes. The speakers themselves are fine. I tested out another pair of the exact same subs, brand new, and I had the same problem. I am wondering if its the enclosure, perhaps? The sound I get is a clanging noise coming from the subs. I can lift the box up and it still makes that noise, so I know its nothing vibrating in the trunk. It only makes the noise if the volume is turned up, with the lower notes. What seems to be the issue? Is it the speakers or enclosure? Thanks....
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Re: noise I don't like
The only real way of telling is a true bench test of the speakers. The speakers should be but on an amp with an adjustable tone generator at o db. The amp. should be hooked up to load resistors with 0 db(.775 milivolts) frequency sweeping hooked up to a ocilliscope to test properly. Anything else would be just a shot in the dark or a quess.
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mono block anps are usually rated at lower impedance.
if your subs are dual 4 ohm , i'd wire all v/cs in parallel for a 1ohm load... unless the amp is all chromed up, than that rating is probably a WLS rating(when lightning strikes)... if the box says anaba group it typically does half of what it advertises.. :-(
Depending on the PA FUBAR you have. The voice coil on those subs are DVC. Dual Voice Coil. You need to know a couple things. What kind of amp are you going to run on it. And what is the resistance (OHM) rating of each voice coil. MY two 12's are dual 4 ohm. Meaning that there are essentially 4 speakers to hook up. My amp currently is not 2 ohm stable in bridged. So what I did is run each speaker in parallel (red2red,black2black) then run to the box terminal. So now the dual 4 ohm voice coils are basically 2 ohm. I have 2 speakers. Now I hook the box up in series. To bring the now two 2 ohm speakers into one 4 ohm speaker. This is called series/parallel setup. My amp sees this box as 1 channel @ 4ohms. The downfall to this is the output of the amp is divided up into each speaker. So instead of sending all 1400 watts to one sub. I will send 700 to each sub. But here is a catch. even though each speaker is half the total wattage it will still be 3db louder. Meaning it will be as loud as 1 sub running 1400 watts. To conclude i need to know how many of those subs you are going to run on the amp.. And the model number of the amp so I can match up your wiring.
Your home stereo is a 120V system, while your subs are designed for 12V use. Your home stereo doesn't have the amps to push your subs. They need alot of amps at 120V. Your best bet is to is an AC to DC converter, but to get one that is powerful enough to run your system would be more expensive than just buying a decent set of home subs. Also, your box design for home audio is different that car audio. Home enclosures usually use a bandpass box, while car enclosures rarely use this method.
I can assume that phantom 1500 is a 1500 watt amp? but still the amp will have more than enough power to push a w6, w7,and even in pairs. Single w6 can handle 600 watts rms, thus you will need to turn the gain all the way down so that the speaker won't over powered and that can lead to breaking the sub.
Assuming there is no short, or lose ground wire somewhere inside the box, diodes( in the amp) are fine, you might be overheating it by not allowing it to get good ventilation. This can be a big deal on some low end Chinese amps. Or the speakers are blown , or your Resistors (in the amp) are bad, but for arguments sake. Most people don't use the proper size and or conductivity types of wiring, for pushing high amperage Think about it like this, Watts (power) =.Amps (energy) x Voltage (pressure) Resistance or Ohm's (amount) determines how much Wattage will go in or out, Ohms = Volts x2 / Watts. What gauge wire are you using on your setup?
the amp is rated at 950Watts that is about 75amp.@12volts. check the battery and the alternator rating. you can't pull full power from the battery, that will prevent the car from starting.
add up all of the amp from all of the fuses in the fuse box, and subtract that from the battery rating , that is the max power the amp will get.
your have to turn up the gain because of the low power. so, if you change a amp with better rating, you still have to turn up the gain.
First check your gain it may be turned down. I personally dont bridge speakers. I put each speaker to its own channel on the amp.Make sure positive to positive and negative to negative. Try hookin up two speakers to the amp (not bridged) and turn your gain up around half way. Make sure you amp is switch to lowpass not high since most amps have crossovers built in now. The more speakers you have the less output from each speaker from one amp youll get.
Connect each speaker coil one at a time to a square 9 volt battery and watch for the cone to move.
Also try hooking another speaker to your amp just to make sure the noise isn't in the amp.
You can use a 9 volt battery to test wire polarity also. Hook up the + wire of the speaker to the + terminal of the battery and the - speaker to the - battery terminal. If the speaker moved UP or OUT then the wiring is correct. If it moved IN or DOWN then the + and - wires are backwards on the speaker.
Also if you have two or more speakers hooked together test all the same way while they are hooked to each other. ALL of the speakers need to move in the same direction at the same time.
Clipping causes more speaker damage than anything. "Dirty Power" can happen in good quality amps too. The gain control is to match the voltage between the headunit and the amp. It is NOT a volume or boost knob. If you overdrive the first stage of the amp and then clip it damage will occur to the amp and speakers at some point.