Question about KitchenAid Ovens
I purchased the double ovens in April 2001. I have had no issues until the last two months with the top/convection oven. When I shut the oven off and the fan has cooled the oven down and turned off, the panel after approximately 5 - 10 minutes beeps and every possible light on the panel flashes on and off leaving just the Power Failure(PF) light showing. Sometimes it blows the clock out so I have to reset it. I have been using the lower oven, that one does not cause any of those issues, just is not heating up as well
SOURCE: OVEN will not heat
After reading the above, here is how I fixed my KEBS177DSS9
I pulled out the wall oven from the cabnet. Took off the back tin panel about 10 tin screws. Follow the wire from both heating elements. They are both connected to a thermo fuse. When using the self clean feature this fuse protects the oven from over heating and starting a fire. I put a jumper wire from the hot lead on the left and connected it to the 2 leads on the right side. I turned the power back on and turn the oven on to bake at 350 degrees. Yep It worked like a charm. I bypassed the thermal fuse and used the oven, until the new thermal fuse was ordered. If you have any questions about this fix email me at firstname.lastname@example.org Good luck
Posted on Dec 24, 2007
SOURCE: Kitchenaid Convection oven
DOOR AND LATCH SWITCH DO NOT AGREE
DOOR LATCH NOT OPERATING.
PROCEDURE: Before proceeding, press OFF, OFF, START to enter
the Diagnostic mode and verify the error codes.
TO VERIFY DOOR SWITCH:
A. While in diagnostics, open the oven door. The second digit on the clock display
should toggle between “1” and “0” as the door opens and closes. When door is
closed display should show “1”, when the door is open display should show “0”.
If the second digit on the clock display did not toggle, go to step B.
If the digit did not toggle after replacing the door switch, go to step D.
If the digit did not toggle after replacing the door switch harness, go to step F.
B. Unplug oven or disconnect power.
C. Replace door switch. (If door switch is integral to the door latch motor
assembly, replace the entire door/latch motor assembly). Go to step H.
D. Unplug oven or disconnect power.
E. Check the integrity of the harness wires and connections between the
appliance manager and the door/latch assembly. Ensure there are no shorted
or pinched wires.
If the wiring harness is pinched or damaged, replace the door switch harness.
Go to step H.
If wiring harness is good, go to step H.
F. Unplug oven or disconnect power.
G. Replace appliance manager. Go to step H.
H. Replace all parts and panels before operating.
I. Plug in oven or reconnect power.
J. Press OFF, OFF, START to reenter the Diagnostic mode and complete checks.
Repeat step A.try this lighting may have knocked either the door switch or latch motor out
Posted on Mar 30, 2008
I had the very same problem. I slid the oven out of the wall about 6" or so, unplugged it, plugged it back in. It worked. I'm not sure if I jostled some connection, or if unplugging/repluging it in reset some sort of circuit fault.
Posted on May 30, 2008
The problem is with the faulty relay board or wire harness harness.
There are no home remedies for this problem.The only solution is to get it repaired.
Posted on Sep 17, 2008
If it is fan assisted then check the fan element, it is located behind a panel at the rear of the oven compartment.
Plz rate my\solution.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
DO you have a model number for that. I'm almost sure it's a thermal fuse in the back of the oven. Usually they go out during or after cleaning but that would shut down both elements. If you have the model (usually by the inside door look all over and up in the cavity) Then if you go to this link
It will show you a breakdown of the oven and where it is. If you give me the model I'll show you what I'm talking about. Good luck.
P.S. if it the fuse it's a cheap fix, little hard to get in back of the oven but cheap!
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
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